Tenango de Arista is noticeably cooler (elevation 2600m (8500'). I got off the bus around 3:35pm. Walked ~1 mile to Zona Arqueológica Cuauhtinchán.
I arrived at the gate ~5 minutes to 4pm. The guard was reluctant to let me in, until I promised to exit by 4:30pm. Well, I exited at 4:32 (not the last one), not bad, considering it's a bit of a hike to get to the site proper on the top of Tetépetl Hill. He was helpful to let me leave my roller bag in his office. The site is quite nice. Menicured lawn. Flat top pyramids provide good view of the valley below. At this hour, not too many tourists around. I really liked it.
On the way back to main road, near the town center, and the market. Bought some tomatoes and avocado from an old lady sitting on the side walk, and 2 cucumbers from a fruit stand. There are guys carrying men's box shorts touting at every passers-by, even at me. At the same bus stop where I got off, I got on Linea Teo bus for Toluca centro. 16 peso. More buses to the main terminal, as well as taxis in the vicinity. 50 minutes. Slow traffic in the city.
Teo bus' terminal is only 2 blocks away from my hotel. After checking-in, I walked about the vicinity, (the photo to the right is the Culture Center, and the museum of science and industry), and bought some food from Soriana. The hotel has a nice but smalll deck with seating and potted plants, but the sunset was not the best. Will come back for sunrise.
1/28, Friday. Up early to the deck for sunrise. Not the best, but Nevado de Toluca was clear. I had considered hiking to its summit. Running out of time on this trip. Next time.
Toluca, the capital of state of Mexico, sits at 2660m (8730'). Pretty chilly in the morning. It is close to Mexico City, many local buses to different suburbs. A goodl collection of museums and universities. Very lively.
Bus 12 peso first 5km. Then .25 per km. I took one bus to Metepec (feels like a suburb of Toluca), to visit the Capilla Calvario on the hill. I totally missed the Ex-convento de San Juan Bautista which is right at the next street corner. Also need to try the drink "Garañona". It is made from 15 herbs and is a strong, sweet drink. Some locals say it is an aphrodisiac. The only place that sells and distributes this drink is a bar called the "2 de Abril".
There were a few joggers and dog walkers heading up the hill. A small temple on the top, too bad, no view at all. It's a small hill. The small chapel is at the foot of the hill on top of an elaborate staircase. A large colorful relief. In the morning, it's quite nice. No vendorer hauking their sales. Most of the shops were closed. I found a Tienda 3B, bought a few eggs.
Back in town (put the eggs in the fridge first), I walked north to the attractions. The building of Cosmovitral grabbed my eyes. I highly recommend it.
(25 pesos?) I love this place. The garden itself is not interesting, not a lot of varieties of plants, no labels, no signs. The draw is the stained glass windows: huge, colorful, surrounding all sides, and the middle of the roof. There're 2 fountains, a small Japanese red bridge (even a raked stone field, very small), lots of bench to sit and admir the color. No shops. Not too many tourists.
Outside is the large outdoor concrete plaza called Parque de Ciencia Fundadores. It's very nice, full of flowering plants, in geometric shaped designs. Benches, stairs, a perfect place for a picnic. No shade though.
The west end of the long plaza/park is the fine art museum, a large planetarium dome and its adjacent church Iglesia del Carmen.
The art museum occupies the old convent part of church. A nice plaza without vendors. No shade.
I went to visit the 3 museums west of the plaza, on the same corner behind (west of) the austere looking (closed to public) Palacio de Gobierno. Museo Taller Luis Nishizawa, Museo Felipe Santiago Gutierrez and Museo del Paisaje Jose Maria Velasco. All are nice and free, small though. The latter two museums are linked. I went into Museo Gutierrez and walked into an employee meeting in the landscape museum. I like paintings.
1 block south (walk along Palacio de Justicia) is the beautiful catheral with fancy glass doors. Large marble, 19th century construction.
Facing the cathedral is the interesting looking Plaza Gonzales Arratia (probably an underground parking lot). All these nice looking plazas have no shade.
After lunch, I visited Casa Toluca, which has some period furniture and layout. Quite nice, again, small and free.
I really like the museum of watercolor. Free too. It also showcases the winners of recent painting contests. There are many other museums to visit. I'll definitely come back.
Since I was flying back to US the next day, I needed a covid-test. When I was looking into booking a test a few days ago, all seemed wide open, and I couldn't book one within 3 days. By the time I arrived at Toluca, I couldn't find any open slot. So I decided to do a walk up in one of the parmacies listed on US consulate website. I went to a few, only at Farmacias de Ahorro, I was told I could get a test, just wait at the door to see the doctor. There were a few waiting already, so I waited there. I didn't know that I need to ask for a ticket. The doctor was pretty slow, the door opens only when a "patient" enters/exits her office. After every client (sometimes 2), she asked the cleaning lady from the pharmacy to mop the floor, wipe all the surfaces. I liked how clean it was operating, but this was slow. An hour and half later, the doctor asked who was the last person. I then spoke up. Two other parents (came with their teenage kids) spoke for me. The doctor took pity at me, and gave me a number, and told me to pay at the pharmacy, and go get a warm jacket and return after one hour. I was to be her last one for the day. I did as she said. Yes, it gets chilly here as soon as the sun sets. When I was back, more waiting. By the time I got my certificate, it was aleady past 9pm. The city was not as bustling at night as those in warmer climate.
Going home tomorrow.
