11/25, Thursday. Tour of
Chichen Itza.
The pickup time is 6:50am on my ticket. I went to the pickup hotel ahead of time, near Ado station. Quite a few were lingering outside waiting for various tours. My pickup never came. So after half an hour, I walked to my ticket agent, and he claimed that it was yesterday. Anyway, after a bunch of calls, a small van came and picked me up, and took me to the hotel zone, a giant operation with 3 buses going to Chichen Itza alone. The guide told me that they were going to Valladolid first instead of last, so couldn't drop me off in the city.
Turn clock back 1 hour when we cross the border from Quintana Roo to Yucatan. Same timezone as in Chicago.
1st stop, the city of
Valladolid. We were given 20 minutes. I walked to my AirBnb just to check out the neighborhood. Only had time to use the toilet before I had to be back on bus. Did find out that the ADO station here has free wifi.
2nd stop,
cenote Saamal, right outside of Valladolid (~3 miles west). It's very busy (lots of Russians). The cenote is large, pretty. Watch your steps going down the stairs, as they are wet. There are platforms at different levels for you to admir the water. It's very clear. You have to wear (rent) life vest in order to swim here. I didn't swim here.
Walked around the property -- still being worked on: ground cleared and old buildings restored. Quite nice. In addition to a large restaurant, there are multiple cafes and souvenir shops. There's a bike rental here. Not sure where to, on a bike.
3rd stop
Cooperativa Maya Ixchel. One of the guides on the bus claims that he's from this Maya community. You can buy a asstrology birth certificate hand painted in Mayan pictograph on a papyrus for $20. All you need is write down your birthday and name, and when the bus depart, the certificate will be ready for you. A large gift shop selling obsidian rocks and clothes. The store employees gave demostration outside of the stores in multiple groups. There was also a guy dressed like a shaman waving smoking plants and chanting.
After all this, we were led to Restaurante Yaxkin right behind the store. It's large and nicely decorated. A buffet, but you are not allowed to serve yourselves except for desert. Every so often, a couple in traditional dress will dance with half filled beer bottle on their heads. When we board the bus, we were given a shot of alcohol to taste. I didn't drink it. Was told it's very sweet. Among the ingrediants are honey, anise, a local herb that I don't recall the name. Then bottles with your photo printed in front are passed down the bus. If you keep the bottle, it's $20. I avoid all photos, so don't have a bottle.
Last stop is
Chichen Itza. The state of Yucatan imposes a hefty price on foreigners. All ruins have 2 tickets, one for
IHAH, one for the state. Yucatan has 3 levels of entrance fee: foreigner, Mexican, Yucatan residents. Mine costs a wooping US$26, out of which, 80+% goes to the state. This tour took care of the entrance fee. While lining up for the temperature check at the gate, I chatted with 2 small Asian girls from California who just completed Iron Man at Cozumal.
The main pyramid is surely grand. A lot of people. I took this photo when the park was about to close. It sits on water. Our guide made us clap in unison 3x3, and the pyramid will echo. At the large ballcourt next door, he also claps in the center axis, the echo is higher pitched.
After the guided portion, we didn't have much time until the closure. They started to fence off various parts and chased tourists out at 4:30pm. I did go to the sacred cenote. Still has water.
On the way back, I asked to be dropped off at the exist to the cenote. It just past 6pm, but already pitch dark. I waited for a collectivo for about 10 minutes, and then started walking. There's a gravel trail for bikes and walkers all the way to the city of Valladolid.
11/26, Friday,
Valladolid.
Valladolid is a nice little town, good base for some cenotes and Chichén Itza. It's one of the
Magic Towns in Mexico. Pretty center plaza, great cathedral.
The government palace is open to visit. Go up to the 2nd floor for 4 large paintings of the history of this area, and great view of the plaza. At Maxi-go, the only tour agent who arranges trips to Rio Lagardos. I left my name and my Whatsapp number (everyone in Mexico uses Whatsapp, so I installed it just before I arrived). They need at least 3 person to make the trip. It is expensive, about US$95, entrance tickets not included.
I walked around the city center. Then went to look for Cenote Zazi. The streets around it were being repaved. No one was allowed to walk there. The market is also this area, not very big.
Visited Convento San Bernardino (40 pesos). The original site was built on top of a cenote. Photos of the excuvation were shown in a small room with English description. Nice ground. It was getting too hot, and I went back to my AC room. Most stores close between noon and 4pm.
Got a message from Maxi-go. There're enough tourists for the tour. Had to get cash to pay, otherwise, they charge you extra 5%. 6 tourists total. We were to return 5-5:30pm. I bought an ADO ticket to Mérida online for tomorrow 6:15pm.
Packed up for tomorrow. Threw away 1 shirt, 1 pair of socks.
11/27, Saturday, tour to Ek Balam and Rio Lagartos
I had miscommunication in the morning, and missed the pickup. I finally called the office, and I was told they were looking for me for an hour. But I hadn't received any message. One guy drove me to meet the group at Ek Balam.
Ek Balam (456 pesos ~US$22). Not too crowded here. The guide showed us an orange flower, called Cirocote(?), which the color is used in dye. The most notible structure are the stucco fangs on the middle platform.
Not sure if it's a good idea of the new plaster of the giant teeth, even if they were like that in originally. Some round corners. The view on the top pyramid is quite good. The execuvated ground is not very large, so doesn't take long to walk around.
2nd stop,
Las Coloradas, the pink salt pond of
Sal Sol.
There's a promotional video playing in the brand-new modern visitor center, where you can use the nice bathroom and purchase ticket to walk on to one dike to the middle of the pond (290 pesos). None of my group was willing to shell out the extra dough to walk in the heat. Because you can see the pink pond from the parking lot. The pond just on the left side is of a clear greenish color.
Last stop,
Rio Lagartos. We had lunch at a restaurant at waterfront. Because of the hiccup this morning, all other tourists were given a free drink.
Then we boarded 2 boats going along the river, under the main bridge to town (you can also hire a boat right there, so shorter drive). Saw 5 croc, a couple of black hawks, 4 ospray, 1 flying vulture, egrets (small one has yellow feet). Many camerons, pelicans. A couple of termite nests. An "ojo de agua" - a waterhole with clear fresh water. Fairly relaxing.
The goal is to find flamingos. At one spot, we walked over some very muddy shore to see these magnificent birds. A bit too far for my phone camera. They are more red than I thought. Then, we were told to smear this sulphoric smelling mud on to our skin if we like. At the end of the tour, we were driven to the ocean front, to wash out the mud plaster, and swim.
Back to
ADO station by 6pm. A litte traffic getting into the town. The bus departed almost on time. It's a large van. Comfortable, but no bathroom. Arrived at Merida ~9m. Pick up the key in a lockbox. No one else in the house.
The only possible bus for Homún is the Sur bus company, Sunday only, and 10:45 departure, 4:15/5:15pm return. So I walked to the minivan area near the bus station ~9am. On Calle 52 x 67 y 65, sound end (close to SuperAki, c.67), east side, I found one for Homún. Already 7 on board. Driver was eating by the parking lot. Even though the van was filled, we didn't drive out until 9:42. The only stop was to fill gas.
Santa Barbara is nicely decorated. Clear signs in both English and Spanish. 250 pesos fixed price, including 3 cenotes, transport (truck or bike), life vest, wifi. Lunch $100 extra, you have to order right there. I tried wifi once outside of the 2nd cenote, nothing, maybe only in the restaurant. 
I took the "truck" option (horse drawn cart). The guy and I sat on this wood cart with a canopy. A horse was led over to pull the cart on a rail track. The dirt road is in good condition. Not far to walk, but far enough in the heat. I got off at the only other stop. There's a bathroom, changing palapa, 3 showers. You need to shower before entering the pools.
1st cenote Cascadel is totally underground. Well lit. Long stairs to get down. Huge platform in the middle. A life guide sits here. I left my bag (towel, book, phone) and my sandles on the platform too. All feels pretty solid. Quite pretty. Water is nicely cool after the cramp bus ride. The air however is warmer than outside. Only 2 families here, but noisy with kids. It's very beautiful.
I like the 2nd cenote, Chaksikin, the most. It has a small direct opening, so it's bright enough to see, and even read (which I did). 
Same large platform in the middle, long stable stairs. There are little fish here who nibs on you. Long tree roots drap to the water. Stalactite from the ceiling. My bus companion is the life guard here. The air is not as humid as the last one. I actually got slightly chilled, being wet. I stayed in this one for a long time. More and more people. I noticed their wrist band, so they came with some tour groups. I left for the 3rd.
The last one, Xooch, has a massive stone construction for entrance. You go through a short tunnel to reach the pool, with a wide opening. This is the smallest pool. I didn't swim here. Very crowded, and not enough space to put my stuff.
Took a motortaxi to the town center (10 peso). I tried to walk to 2 cenotes in town. Couldn't find the 1st one, the 2nd is closed. Too late now to engage a tour. Went to the taxi terminal. There were 6 people waiting already. The driver wouldn't leave until it's full. We took off at 4pm. Again, the first thing he did was to stop for gas:(
