2022.7.23-25 The Craggies + Rainy Pass

After missing each other last weekend due to our bad cell carrier which didn't deliver SMS in time, O and I planned to climb this weekend together. Initially, we were set to Snowfield Peak for 3 days, camping under Neve Glacier for 2 nights. O invited a couple of folks, I asked one person, none came along. O insisted roping up. With just 2 of us, and I not knowing ropes, I decided not to take the risk at Snowfield. We settled on West Craggy (85th) and Big Craggy (62nd), the 2 Bulger peaks next to each other in Okanogan Range. We are both happy not to lug crampons and ice axe along. Helmet, yes! Due to the long drive (4.5 hour from Seattle), we decided to keep this a 3 day outing, and add a few short hikes nearby.

Conclusion

• the Craggies are better done in larch season. It's short enough to climb with shorter day light in autumn. Total: shy of 10 miles, maybe 6000' EG. Right now, already no snow to help the climb, so a lot of scree. Tons of mosquitoes.
• the 3 extra hikes we did near Rainy Pass are excellent choices this time of the year (or during larch season), if you can put up with the crowds of pests and people: the remaining snow makes the scenary much prettier, quite some flowers, wild animals (despite of the crowds).
• thick socks are needed for hard boots.

7/23, Saturday, we left Seattle ~8am, in thick clouds. Drove to Blue Lake TH. ~11:30am, the parking lot was full. Sunny here. Had to park along Hwy-20. Being an easy hike (4.4 mile RT, 1000'EG), it's very popular, but I had never visited it. Oops, forgot my wool socks!

Half way up, enters a small meadow, view starts to pop up, across from Hwy-20, and the Liberty Bell group. There they were, 2 goats: a baby and an adult. A few muddy spots. Continue on. The lake is quite pretty. Yes, very blue and clear, but not glacier color. Some larches. We walked to a small tarn nearby. Camping is not allowed near the lake.

Back as we came. On the way out, people stopped on both ends of the trail because of this bear. He was very close to the trail. I walked on, tapping my pole on rocks, so not to startle him. I turned around to take a photo, and he looked at me and O, but continued eating grass.

Drove to Winthrope for some gas. Then onto Copper Glance TH. It was quite hot: the car indicated 91°F, ~3:30pm. One other car in the small pullout. O was debating whether to take her rainfly. Dark clouds ahead, so she stuffed it in.

There is a gate and sign for "road closed". Totally unnecessary. It is narrow like a trail, not drivable at all (see photo to the right with O).
Quite some flowers along the "road". Most notable is magenta paintbrush, silvercrown is at its end, yarrow, pearly everlasting, aster (more coming). Saw 2 Collomia Grandiflora, some pink Iliamna Rivularis. Burnt trees all around. Saw a girl hiking out with a handfull of flowers.
There're two crossing over Copper Glance Creek, one very close to TH, one almost at the end. I filled water at the first.

About an hour later, we reached the meadowy slope, charred trees, rugged rocky ridge.

Reached the pond, too mosquito-y to make a base camp. The trail becomes faint here. Supposedly if you continue for less than 1/2 mile, you'd reach an overlook over Copper Glance Lake. We continued along the creek in NW direction. All bushwhacking now. Lots of downed charred logs. Slow progress. But we didn't need to go far. ~6pm, we found a small site for 2 tents, close to the creek, next to the rocks, more or less at the treeline. As we were pitching the tents, the rain started, with thunder. I had to crawl into the semi-erect tent to wait out the rain, ~1 hour. It certain surpressed some mosquitoes. Filled water, ate, too cold now to wash my shirt.

7/24, Sunday, climb day. We are using Ian Lauder's GPS track of 2020. Heading to West Craggy first. We started hiking ~6am with helmets on.

Follow the creek's left bank, hopping over rocks. 2 cute ponds, good reflection. Probably breeds mosquitoes. Crossed to the right side, and up over steep (somewhat loose) rocks. This part may be the most sketchy of the day. Once reached the ridge, it is fairly easy, more of less stayed on the west side of the ridge. Great view from then on. Here's O, who was way ahead of me. Here is her signing the summit registry. I reached the summit at 8:40. She took a few photos of me on the summit.

Next Big Craggy. We retraced the ridge half way, losing elevation. Found the cutover (there's a cairn, and if not, it's kinda obvious where you'd need to turn). Continued to lose about 1000' elevation. Nice view of the small No Dice Lake. Mostly fun and pretty ridge walk. Exposure, yes, but danger, not so much. Looking behind for the West Craggy. I kept on thinking the next bluff is the summit, but no... At least 3 times. Finally, I saw O up there waiting. This is the view on top of Big Craggy, looking west. I arrived ~11:10am.

Going down directly to the Copper Glance Creek drainage. Backtraced only a bit, then a long rock screefield to go. I didn't like this part, even though not as bad as coming down Robinson last June. Bacm at camp ~1pm.

Here's more of less our route. Packed up, and hiked out. More sunny (hotter) today. The nicest stretch is the flowering slope around 5500'. Not much elevation gain, but good view to the valley behind and the peaks ahead.

On the way out, O stopped at the road's end, and we went in a bit to see the mine. I didn't even see it on the way up. For more info on the Copper Glance mine, checkout FS website.

Drove out on NF-5130, saw a small bear (brown fur) running away. We stopped, and he stopped too. A little too far for phone camera. O stopped at Winthrope for meal. I read my book, and ate my cold-soaked backpack meal. It was 95°F.

Parked at Bridge Creek TH parking, and crossed the Hwy-20, and walked PCT for ~1 mile (mostly flat, lost some minor elevation) to its junction to Copper Pass / Stiletto Lookout trail. We were planning to hike to Stiletto Peak tomorrow. Found a campsite near State Creek. Washed, hung my shirt on a tree. My left nose started bleeding. Too hot. Only then, we realized that the bridge is out. Looked for a crossing, found a possible log, but it ends in bushes on the other side. We discussed an alternative.

When we chatted after dinner (not as buggy as last night), a young guy walked to our camp, and pitched his bivy close to O. He's from Germany, looks Asian, perfect English. He is going PCT south bound. Just hiked from Harts Pass all the way here (~33 miles), and was going to Stehekin tomorrow (~17 miles). He said it was very buggy all day today (the one factor he contributed to his 33 mile day). His backpack is about the size of my day pack (~20L). Definitely no stove. We didn't see him cook, nor eat. Only saw him filter water.

7/25, Monday, sunny, very warm. Maple Pass loop, a classic at Rainy Pass.

Packed out ~6am, drove to Rainy Pass TH, repacked for the day hike. In fact, we could have walked there via PCT. Probably take the same amount of time. Monday morning, the giant parking are was rather empty, and we weren't sure where is the TH proper. We headed up to Maple Pass first, aiming for Frisco Mt. As we approached the tree line, we saw this grouse cooing for mate. He stood there, right by the trail, called many times. It was ~8:10am. That alone made my day!

Once emerged to the glacier lily filled meadow, the view is spectacular, so were the mosquitoes. Most lily was still coming. Quite some pasqueflowers. Larches. Snow was melting everywhere, very pretty. This marmot was sunning.

At about 6950', there's a junction. We could see some snow on the way to Frisco Mountain. Since we didn't bring spikes, O decided to sit this one out, and I ventured up left, following a visible track. Snow can be avoided, for at least 2 bumps that I went up to. Definitely exposed, sometimes very narrow. I turned around before a steep drop, view is excellent. Some phlox on the rocks.

We continued on the loop, loosing elevation now, until about 6600 at Maple Pass. Lots of snow along this stretch, views to all directions. Seeing people coming from opposite direction. Lots of people. Tracks on snow was well defined. Then we headed up to a gentle bump, marked as Heather Pass Peak on one version of Gaia Map, following a faint boot track. This is an excellent choice. You can see Lewis Lake from here. We encountered only one person here. I sat against a snowbank, half in the shade. Not too many mosquitoes.

Back to the main drag. Crowds. Snow lingered on the zigzag all the way to Heather Pass. Some hikers even turned around. Some are better prepared than O and I, and they wore spikes.

O plans to drive out at 3pm. So we walked to Rainy Lake from the same parking lot. It's only a flat mile, mostly in shade, all paved for wheelchair/stroller. There are also ~3 nice benches along the way. A large "deck" and another bench at the end of the pavement. The lake is quite lovely. Can climb down to the water, but it was too sunny. We hid in the shade and rested, before walking back to the car.

My left eye was getting quite bad. I threw away the contact lens, but the tears didn't manage to expel any foreign particle. I practically drove home with just one eye. We stopped at a Mexico restaurant for O at Arlington (91°F), and a gas stop. Cheap gas here by I-5. No traffic. Arrived back in Seattle shortly before 7pm. The car registered 88°F. Will be hotter the next few days.

2021.8.8-9. End of bloom at Summerland

Last year, my favorite flower hike is the first weekend of August at Rainier from Summerland to Indian Bar. I gave up my permit at Boston Basin this weekend (the road was closed 2 miles before TH, and weather on Sunday was wetter at N. Cascades). Went to Rainier instead, hoping to see similar bloom. Alas, I was too late.

8/8, Sunday, cloudy. Left Seattle ~10am. A long queue at the White River entrance, because only 1 (out of 2) booth was open. Took ~45 minutes. I applied for an overnight permit, which took a bit of time. Reached Panhandle Creek TH ~1pm.

Nothing to note all the way to the big log bridge over Panhandle Creek. After this, the usual aster patch was now mingled with pink fireweed, looked very pretty. A group of backpackers hiked out, one girl stopped to take photos. She said this was the best patch of flowers of her trip. Hearing this, my heart almost sank.

Sadly, very true. Other than pink monkey flowers along the water, the meadows were dry. Lupine was all in seeds, bistort all dried out, a few heather were withering brown. At least the meadow was green, still pleasant to look at.

I headed higher to the same campsite we used last August. Still a tiny patch of snow left. A small creek for me to wash and filter. I didn't bother to bring a stove. After dinner, I headed up to Point 6945. But too cloudy, couldn't see anything to the east. I didn't wait for the sunset, because I was cold. Headed back to the tent, it was very wet already with condensation. My bear can is also wet. It was a cold night. I slid into my 20°F bag, read a few pages, retired early.

Clouds cleared overnight. Good stars.

8/9, Monday. Sunny. Up to shoot a few sunrise photos before breakfast. Packed for a full day, and hiked towards Indian Bar ~7am. Saw a runner, no one else, until ~11am. A large herd of sheep crossed the trail south of Panhandle Gap. Probably the same group of last year. Heather were dried out and brown, lupine in seed. Only on the slope near Indian Bar, I finally saw a carpet of aster, so dense, it made my heart sing. Like last summer, I stopped here for an early lunch. Then, I turned around.

Back along Wonderland trail. Saw probably the same flock of sheep. Met a group of ~5 on their 9th of 10 day trek of entire Wonderland. I asked them which is their favorite part. A girl said this section is pretty spectacular. Below Panhandle Gap, I left the trail and headed east towards Sarvant Mountains, Named after photographer Henry Mason Sarvant. Met 2 sheep here at a patch of blooming lupine. Further up, a large patch of harebells among white buckwheat on dryer soil. Saw 2 hikers coming my way from Panhandle Gap.

There is a track but it soon disappeared. The slope is gentle, easy going. I Stopped here for my "second" lunch, aired my boots, so to leave a large distance between me and the other 2. Great view of the Savant Glacier. You can also see Mt. St Helens.

Continued up until Banshee Peak, the highest point. Couldn't find any shade to hide. A bit windy for umbrella. Jagged Cowlitz Chimneys to the east look intimidating. The green tarn below Sarvant Glacier looks inviting. To the south, can see Wonderland trail all the way down to Indian Bar. Took a long break here. Headed out shortly after 1pm.

On the way back, started to see day hikers at Panhandle Gap. The connection to the gap is narrow and goes up. Better weather today, so better color of the pond. Met 2 young guys doing Wonderland on their 5th of 6 day trek. I asked one what's his favorite section. Same answer.

By the time I was back at my camp, the tent had dried, the bear can was wet inside. I cleaned the can and the tent bottom as I was packing up. Filtered some water. It was warm. Hiking out under my umbrella. Below Summerland, met 2 rangers with large packs hiking up. The young lady checked my permit. I was back at car ~5:40pm. Stopped at Enumclaw for gas, very warm 78°F.

Have to come back next year at least a week earlier.

2020.8.1-2 Summerland - Indian Bar in Mt. Rainier NP

I reserved the backcountry overnight permit on Mt Rainier's website in June for my favorite section of Wonderland Trail. The 3 national parks in WA have 3 different reservation schemes :(. Rainier doesn't offer walk-up permit this year. I was allowed to change once without fee. So I postponed a week to this weekend after reading trip reports. I received the permit by email 2 days before my trip.

8/1, Saturday. Cloudy all morning. Long line on the road to Sunrise before the park gate. They were letting only 20 cars at a time. Big yellow signs warning "road work, expect delay". I didn't see any road work (maybe after our TH). We waited from 11:30-1:15! Walked to the restroom, and picked a permit bag and twine from the trailer parked outside of the closed Wilderness Info Center. Around 1:10, the "gatekeeper" stepped outside of his booth, and waved in every car, without checking tickets.

Found a parking spot right away next to the TH. That's unexpected. The trail in the forest is well groomed and somewhat busy and dusty. Most people wore facial covering when passing others. A large % of old folks, Indians and Chinese didn't care. After crossing the roaring Fryingpan Creek, the view opens up. Tons of sitka velarian, pearly everlasting and mountain aster. The thimbleberry bushes had no fruit yet, just flowers. Quite a lot of hikers coming out.

Near the Summerland camp area, a ranger checked our permit. He carries a red shot gun, with large letters "Less lethal" printed on it. He asked about food storage - I carried a bear can. We continued towards Panhandle Gap. Paused often for photos.

Near the two little unnamed lake/tarns, we found a campsite out of sight, next to a snow patch with a tiny creek formed by the melting snow. Relaxed by the lake. Cooked dinner with a boleto picked in the forest. No bugs.

After dinner, we scrambled up Point 6945. Not as easy as it seems. Tile-like rocks, not stable. On the way a carpet of lupine. The view on the top is excellent. Some measuring equipment and a solar panel. Saw a family of goats hiking in the trees up there. They left after they saw us. Waited here until sunset, before going down to camp.

8/2, Sunday. Sunny -> cloudy. I set my alarm clock at 5:30am, and walked up the rock pile north of the camp. I spotted a group of goats walking over the trail. I walked to the lakes, and they walked over the steep snow slopes on the far side of the lakes. I counted 20! There were 3 babies. Reflection of the sunlit mountains in the water is beautiful. Not another human in sight.


After breakfast, repacked, we headed over Panhandle Gap, and down to Indian Bar. Some snow near the gap, and over. All fairly minor and easy. At the gap, there are side trails going to both sides. I'd like to check out Sarvant Mountain. Gentle hills tinted blue right now. Looks very inviting. Should have stayed for 2 nights. Onanapecosh Park is mostly pink by heather. Amazing view of the valley carved out at the source of Onanapecosh River. ~10 thin waterfalls. A grouse mom with 5 chicks. Saw 2 hikers, 2 runners, +1 elderly through-hiker going around Wonderland Trail. It's his 8th and last day. He certainly looked haggard.

Continued on, loosing elevation. Zigzag on a long slope of endless lupine, velarian and arnica, some paintbrush. Met 2 groups of hikers coming up from Indian Bar. They told us about a bear between here and Indian Bar. That certainly picked my interest. However, we didn't see the bear.
Indian Bar (5120') has a nice shelter facing the river. Multiple braids, rocks, and monkey flowers in the middle of the river. Abundant flowers all around. A small stretch of muggy forest before reaching the river. Could be buggy here (as reported by my friend who camped here last week).

Retraced our steps back to the camp, pausing more for photos, while gaining all the elevation back. Started seeing hikers as we approached Panhandle Gap. More and more people as we hiked out. Learned a new (to me) flower: fuzzy Elmera. Washed away my sweat and dipped my feet in the bigger lake, this time there were other people. Packed up the tent, and headed out. Met the same ranger, and he remembered me!

Filled gas in Enumclaw. Uneventful drive. No protest warning on I-5 in downtown area. Got home ~6:30pm, and concluded a relaxing and spectacular weekend. No mosquito bites!

Total ~18 miles, ~5500' (21K steps on Saturday, ~38K steps on Sunday). I think I make this an annual retreat. Next time stay 2 nights in Sarvant area, and walk out on Monday: less people.