The last week of this winter trip in Mexico.
1/23, Sunday. Up early to catch the 7:15 bus. I got to CAPU before 7am. But at the ORO ticket counter, I was told it's not going. I have to take the 8:15 bus. Oh, well. 220 pesos to Cuautla. Now I'm in Morelos state. Much lower than Puebla, so hotter. I wanted to visit Atlatlahucan for an old monastery, on my way to Cuernavaca, where I'll stay for 2 nights. At Cuautla, I bought the next bus ticket to Oaxtepec. 24 peso. While waiting for my bus (15 minutes), I dragged my suitcase to checkout the main plaza, a couple of blocks away. My bus dropped me off at the Oaxtepec terminal, which is by the highway, 0.9 mile west of the town.
I walked into the small town of Oaxtepec, hot. Only then, I realized that I should have taken one of those numerous blue minivans. They go to the town center. On the way, I saw a couple of vans parked on the road selling its content. I remembered one sells dog pads. Very odd. My goal here is the Ex-convento of Santo Domingo Félix de Guzmán. However, the handsome building was closed (COVID? renovation?). A mass was on-going on outside under a plastic canopy. 
I walked a few blocks into the city center, found this more striking ruin. No one was here. Nothing much left. Saw some sheets and a bunch of fresh grapes. Maybe some squatter here. Afterwards, I asked a couple of blue vans if they go to Atlatlahuacan, and the answer was no. It was too hot, and I got tired dragging my luggage around. So caught a blue van and went back to the bus terminal, which is closer to the Six Flag water park.
Bought a ticket to Cuernavaca. I had 2 options, I bought the bus to "Center", 60 peso. More buses go to Casino de Selva, 1 mile out of the city. My bus drove by a toolbooth near Tepoztlan. Saw a 1280m marker. Yes, it's warmer. Cuernavaca is at ~1500m, feels tropic, but bearable. The "center" terminal is not in the center, but quite a few blocks south of it.
It took me awhile to find someone to check-in this hotel Las Plazas right at the plaza. There is no reception desk. On 3rd floor of Las Plazas shopping mall, there's a large room with its door open. A guy sat there. He gave me the key, and that's it. My room is huge (~70m2). It has AC. A separate dining area. The best, is a balcony overlooking the main plaza, and Palace of Cortez (closed for renovation). I'll be here for 2 nights. Could have stayed longer.
The first thing I visited is Jardin Borda, free entrance on Sundays. A long pool, a series of round fountains (none running, some don't even have water), green. There's also an art exhibition room. All vendors are at one side of the long pool, so it doesn't look too brash. 
I like the greenary. I wish those fountains had better sculptures or finer details, or yes, with running water. As a "garden", the plants are not varied or signed. Still, it's quite pleasant to while away an hour or two.
Half a block away is the compound of the cathedral. No vendors can come in, so it's lovely and serene inside the walls. Groomed lawn, a fountain, small benches, not a lot of people.
The chapilla of San Francisco right at the gate has such an imposing facade. One gilded altar. This was build before the cathedral, so there was a place of worship while waiting for the construction to complete.
The cathedral itself is somber, still has some original mural in half faded state. There is another small church in the compound, now serves as a bookstore.
Robert Brady house museum (60 pesos) is a gem. I love the building (16th century Franciscan observatory), and the eclectic art collection in the house. 
Maybe too many art pieces! Some room is even a bit scary (like this one to the right full of crucifixion images). 
I also like the colorful tiles, the view, the pool, the open terrace. Overall, it's whimsical, but still feels homey. Each room has 1 or 2 display cards that you can read which art is what.
I left with a fuzzy warm feeling for the town.
I had fish for an early dinner in a small courtyard across the street from Brady museum. On my stroll back home, I was lucky to spot a few workers coming out of the fencing around Palacio de Cortez. So I sneaked in a little bit to snap a couple of photos without the ugly fence. Cleaning crew was chasing people out of the central plaza, tying the short green fences around (not sure why).
Read a bit on my balcony. A couple of mosquitoes. Later, I walked to a bus terminal in the city center. I saw two terminals, selling tickets on ETN, FUTURA, COSTA LINE. The temperature in the evening is very pleasant. A neighboring bar was very noisy into the wee hours.
1/24, Monday.
Walked to the local bus area near Mercado Adolfo Lopez Mateos NE of the center, on the east side of the river. It's bustling.
I got on a bus to Yautepec. 8:30am. M$19. 10 passengers. This is more like city bus except for cushioned seats, luggage rack on top. Seats are cramped, picking up passengetrs along the way. I got off about 1/2 mile before the city for the archeologic site. You could see the ruin from the street (through fences). The entrance is on the west side. I signed in at the gate 9:47. I may be the only visitor today. Free. It's very small. 5-10 minutes is enough. There are baños here. Didn't use them.
Walked to the town center. Not very interesting. Ash falling from the sky.
Visited this museum, about the sound of Chinelo, and an exhibition on the actress Virginia Fabregas.
At the bus terminal, I was told that the next bus to Tepoztlán is at 11:30. She told me to go to terminal of Ometochtli. Asked 3 people. Found it. Just one bus. About 5 waiting. No ticket counter. The driver was washing it. 11am bus. 20 peso. Highway construction from Santiage and Tepoztlán had caused major delays.
Tepoztlán is quite touristy. Another Magical Town. Traffic came to a crawl in the city center. So I got off earlier. Set at the foothill of green hills, it's quite pretty. The city center is the compound of Parroquia Nuestra Señora de la Navitidad, encircled by walls. It's nice and quiet inside. The church itself is closed (for renovation?). A large plywood wall tin roof room is setup for the congregation in the courtyard. A tricycle load of jamaica here and there. Each manned by a teeage boy. You can see him chipping away the skin. I bought a bag (20 peso) with a squeeze of lime, juicy.
Took Del Tepozteco all the way to the end, and the street merged into paved trails, passing millions of shops and hotels. The vendors stopped at the boundary of the park. Now it's a hike, but still wide paved steps. I saw side trails (unpaved) from time to time, but with signs saying they are only for ceremonial use. At one creek, I took on one of those, where they didn't put a sign, thus avoided all the crowd. 
The track became faint. I continued higher, and took some photos. Eventually I went back to the trail, and followed it all the way to the gate of the archeology site. It's closed (50 pesos). People gathered outside. One guy (guide?) was lecturing. One guy was playing some haunting sound, which I don't like. 
To its left there is a gravel trail that leads to boulder top, which offers good view of the city and the surroundings. It requires some handholds in order to scale this boulder. A young guide was telling some stories to his small group. 
I continued on the trail. It goes on and on. A couple followed me. I took a loop and came back to the lookout. At least I was able to get to some higher point so I could see some of the archeology site. I enjoyed this hike, it was mostly in the shade, so not hot.
Instead of catching a fast bus at the highway terminal (less stops), I got on the same Ometochtli bus west side of the downtown market. 23 peso from Tepoztlan to Cuernavaca. No curtain this one. 4:17pm we headed out. I bought some fruit after disembarking in Tepoztlan, before walking back to my hotel. Read a blog on Taxco, an decided to go there tomorrow.
1/25, Tuesday. Walked about the center again. Revisited the cathedral complex. The city hall was again closed. I visited one museum, which I forgot which. I really like Cuernavaca, will definitely return. There are direct buses to Mexico City, so it's an easy jaunt. A few places I still want to checkout Teopanzolco archeological site, Ethnicbotanical garden in Acapantzingo, and many old churches (church compound with San José and Nuestra Señora de los Milagros de Tlaltenango), Los Tres Reyes Magos in Tetela, San Nicolás Tolentino in Ahuatepec, San Lorenzo Mártir in Chamilpa, El Divino Salvador in Ocotepec).
Got to the bus station 3 minutes before departure for Taxco, leaving the state of Morelos. This one is in the center. The bus left 4 minutes late. Costa Line. AC, enclosed luggage rack above. Half way out, I realized that I forgot some food and my water bottle in the fridge. Just filtered water this morning:(
