1/26, Wednesday. 89 peso from Taxco to Ixtapan de la Sal. Only 12 on board. I got on the 11:50 bus. Winding mountain road. 1:20 arrival. I fell asleep on the bus and got off at a wrong stop, and forgot my roller in the luggage bin below. When I realized my mistakes, I talked to the agents at the station. They called the bus driver to leave my luggage at the next stop. I took a taxi to the southern terminal. Not far, 50 peso. I retrieved my bag, and walked into the town, maybe ~1Km. Checked into my hotel (no need to reserve, there are a lot of hotels along the main road). Seems like I was the only guest. By then, I was dripping with sweat. Ate and filtered some water. Time for a relaxing soak.
Ixtapan de la Sal is a spa town, another designated magic town. There're 2 pools accessible by all. The municiple pool (Balneario Municipal Aguas Termales), and the one at Ixtapan Aquatic Park. The park itself is only open on weekends. I went to Ixtapan Aquatic Park, only because it's closer to my hotel. Also I was hoping to get a glimpse of the water park (supposed to be quite elaborate) -- which is proved to be impossible. I put on swimsuit inside my shirt and skirt, took water and a book, walked north to the pool. Saw a bus stop with someone waiting. A huge, deserted parking lot. After paying the entrance feen 85 pesos, I was surprised to see at this many people: least 20. I mainly used the indoor pool first, then mostly stayed in the outdoor pool after the sun moved low enough to create enough shade. Attendants would bring buckets of dirt that you can cover your skin with it. You are only allowed to smear mud in the two smaller and hotter pool. No wonder the water is brown. It's relaxing.
Walked to downtown after sun down to buy food. Very lively. Temperature is pleasant in the evening. Parroquia de la Asuncion de Maria was open late for me to peek inside. Quite nice.
1/27, Thursday Up very early, researching what to do. At 8, I went to ask the receptionist how to get to Malinalco. She called someone, and suggested I take a bus to Tenancingo and transfer there. There's a bus stop right in front of the aquatic park, which I saw yesterday. It's a short walk. She said a bus goes by every 20 minutes. I looked at the Flecha Roja schedule, and expect one at 8:55. So I checked out and went to wait for the bus. A bus passed by, but didn't stop. Went back to the hotel to use the restroom.
The lady said that I could take a taxi colectivo at the south end of the town, at the main bus terminal. So I went. Walked to the town center first, for some photo. I slipped in front of one shop, because the lady was mopping the floor there, and swept water onto the street (this is very common here).
Taxi colectivo 9:45 to Tenancingo, 38 peso. 1 hr. Downtown was so congested, so the driver dropped all the passenger instead of crawling the street. It's not a pretty town, but good for transit. I visited the cathedral, took some cash at an ATM near zocalo. I walked to the east of the town looking for taxi stands. Went to Bodega Aurora, and checked my roller bag at the package store. This is a good idea. A large open space, packed with plastic canopies, signed Garis Tenancingo, looks like country fair to me, with live chicken, all sorts of merchandise.
At Super Che and Electrika, I found the white van station to Mali and Chalma. The streets here are very congested, lots of vending stalls. The van has 17 seats. We took off, without fill up and took off. 33 minutes.
Malinalco, yet another Magical Town, is well worth the detour. The white van drops you right off the main plaza. The town is small, walkable.
The main plaza has a beautiful Convento Agustino de Transfiguration. The temple itself is in renovation, so couldn't go in. But the cloister around and the ground is open for public.
The fresco on the walls and ceiling of the cloister is quite extensive and impressive. The manicured lawn is quiet and has plenty shade. I ate my lunch here. All vendors are blocked outside. There was a meeting going on in zocalo. Quite a big turn out, people with printed handouts.
From almost every location in town, you can see the archeology site up Cerro de las Idolos, at least the white canopy. That's where I went next. All paved or stairs. From time to time, there is a area to sit and rest. It takes maybe 20 min. 
The site is small. Structures were built clinging to the steep slope. With the elevated position, you get a fine view of the valley below and the surrouding hills. A few displays, Spanish only. One of those explains the two kinds of construction used here: monolithic and masonary.
Got on a return van just before 2pm. Waited less than 5 minutes. The van Malinalco-Tenango had been waiting for passengers for awhile (if I had no lugguage, that's what I should take). There was a steep section of road west of San Nicolas, fabricated washboard to increase friction.
Picked up my roller bag from Bodega Aurora in Tenancingo. The girl was reluctant taking my tip. I walked to the highway junction. A lady sold me a bus ticket to Tenango, 17 peso. She said in 10 minutes. There are a lot of taxis advertising to Mexico City. Well, 20 minutes later, the bus (to Toluca) arrived. I and quite a few others hopped on this bus. I'll be staying overnight at Toluca today.
