Saturday, January 15, 2022

2022.1.10-22 Puebla, Puebla - Wintering in Mexico part 20

1/10, Monday. I arrived at my Airbnb in Puebla just barely ontime for my daily meeting. Stayed put in front of my computer all afternoon. It was terribly busy outside that on my way in, I had trouble dragging my small (carry-on size) suitcase through endless stalls selling junk. In the evening, it was quieter, when I went to visit zocalo. It's very pretty.

1/11, Tuesday. A beautiful sunny day, at least from my balcony:) I was excited to explorer the city of Puebla de Zaragoza, the capitol of Puebla the state, also the 4th largest city in Mexico. It's bustling. There are maybe 3 light rails, which you need a Puebla metro card (20 peso empty). The metro card also works on surburban buses departing at transit center on edges of the city. You preload the card. Each ride costs ~7.5 pesos. However, the main transportation is the white vans (8 - 8.5 pesos). They are numerous, and it's difficult for me to figure out which one goes where. I installed Moovit app, and it often gave wrong schedule, but did help me find what is possible. I stayed in the historical center, which is very walkable.

I left my room before 8am. Walked north up to park Los Fuertes, via a nice looking residential area. The park is a large green space on a hill with gentle slope, a plateau offers great view of the volcanos (Popo and Itza) to the west. It was early, and I didn't see anyone near the little pond Lago de Concordia. Just one bespeckled man taking selfies at the letters up on a viewing platform. He saw me and asked me to take his photos. We talked for awhile with my broken Spanish. He lives in Mexico City, now visiting his parents in Puebla, where he grew up. He was telling me where I shall visit, full of enthusiasm for his beloved hometown. He also complains about "lo mismos" vending stalls in the city center.

This is where the battle of Cinco de Mayo took place on 1862, which stopped French army on their way to Mexico City. Fuerte de Loreto is now a museum. Too early for a visit. There's a large concrete Mexican flag here. Many trees, walkways, excercise installation, benches. I saw joggers, bikers and a group of senior in a group excercise right in front of the Bandena, with a boombox. In the vicinity, there's the Teleferic (over two tall buildings), the museum of evolution, an Olympic stadium. When I walked back, I saw a lot of people started forming lines for Covid vaccination. Police and lines, quite orderly.

On my way back, I detoured along Parque de las Ninfas (just a long green space between two streets) to visit the oldest church here: Templo and Convento San Francisco.
Crossed the Ovando Bridge over Cinco de Mayo. The legend about this bridge involves lovers and murder. Entering the city center here has some really nice looking streets, including los Sapos (frogs). Before the road Cinco de Mayo paved over the river that separated the colonial side and ingenous side, whenever it flooded, water would rise above the streets, and you'd see frogs here. In the morning, it's quiet, and lovely. Large trees, and colorful cafes that were still closed. By lunch time, the restaurants would have tables and diners on the streets. Later, there will be hords of tourists and endless vending stalls that are difficult to walk pass. The most famous bar here is La Pasita. The alcohol level is said to be measured by number of blocks you can walk without falling. At the cultual center, a group of musicians were just finishing up their practice. There are some contemperary paintings on exhibit.

At 11am, I went to the Zocalo to join the Free Walking Tour. We didn't start until ~15 min after. I enjoyed the walk, even though we didn't walk to any place that escaped my short sightseeing this morning. I liked the details about the sights we saw. Only one complain. Like all Mexicans, our guide likes loud music. He had a Bluetooth speaker to broadcast music from his phone, when we walked (slowly) from one location to another. Our guide today is a Medical student, carried a red square umbrella.
Our first stop is the cathedral, where I learned the meaning of the 3 large doors (Holy Trinity). The center door was only opened once, to allow the last pope enter. The next is Library Palafoxianoa. He pointed out a few museums in the center when we walked by. A long-ish lecture on Talavera, what to look for for a genuine Talavera. At the Paria Market, one America tourist (with a little dog) bought a cone of grasshopper, and offered us a taste. Crunchy, spicy, but no real taste. Only then, I saw baskets of grasshopper everywhere. I had to leave the group early for my meeting.

In the late afternoon, I sneaked out to visit the tunnel, officially Paseo 5 de Mayo. Free Tuesdays.

Tonight, when I tried to turn the water heater on for a shower, I couldn't. It turns out, my host turned off the gas outside of the apartment. The kitchen is full of dirty dishes in the sink, and the two burners often have pots of food sitting on them, both rendered the kitchen un-usuable. I looked for another Airbnb to stay.

1/12, Wednesday. Visited a few churches. One worth noting is Templo Convental del Carmen. Tiled facade, beautifully stucco-ed or painted ceiling. A nice park outside.

At 10am, as soon as it opened, I went in Museo Amparo. A gem, will definitely come back. A whole block, 4 stories of collection. A lot to see: classical oil paintings, by artists like José de Ibarra (1685-1756), archeological burials and statues, modern arts too. Some of the signs are in English. The view at the rooftop is such a delightful space. An airy glass enclosed cafe provides views even if you want to stay indoors. Out on the large patio that wraps around the cafe, umbrellas provide shade. It's free too (maybe only on Wednesday).

After visiting the museum Casa Mendrugo on the lovely Plaza Democratia, and the church of San Cristobal (nice cealing), I went back to work.

Left my room briefly in the afternoon, to see San Domingo and its gilded Rosario Chapel. There was a lady at the gate monitors number of visitors. Had to line outside. She then sprays anti-bacterial mist all over you, before you can step inside to fence of the compound. Way too much gold!

1/13, Thursday. Up late today. Museum de los muñecos. A nice building, now belongs to Benemérita Universidad Autónoma de Puebla. Free Wednesday, but it closed yesterday. 30 peso. No photo allowed indoors. University teaching instruments from late 1800s.

Visited bus stations for this weekend. On the way back, visited Paseo Bravo (interesting benches), and Iglesia Guadalupe (nice tiled front).

Moved to a different Airbnb. It's self contained. There's an electric burner, and a microwave. Large room with the bed in a loft. I contacted the host to extend my stay. But he told me it was taken for the next 3 days, so were his other listings. I researched for a 3rd Airbnb.

Rained hard this evening for ~1 hour.

1/14, Friday. Moved to a building above a vocational school. Small room, but fast wifi and automatic hot water. My window faces staircase (no view, but has fresh air). Dirt cheap. It feels like student housing. The 3rd floor, where the kitchen is, is open, with clothes lines, and some cheap folding tables and chairs. It has decent view of the volcano. The common area was very dirty. I complained to the manager Pablo. He was out of town, but he promised to send a cleaning lady over on Sunday. Tired of moving, I paid for the whole week.

1/15, Saturday. Day trip to Cholula.
Thunderstorm briefly dinner time. Then I heard loud crashing noice from time to time. Turns out it was hailing.

1/16, Sunday. Museums.
Up early. Took a bus to the south peripheral. Not the best bus choice, got off more than a mile from my destination. Walked through the Metropolitan Park. Still some snow on the ground. Baroque museum is housed in a modern building. Very good looking. 80 peso. Free Sundays. The exhibit is more audio-visual, but due to COVID, the hands-on part is closed. A brief survey of Baroque themes in architecture, materials, paintings, sculptures, letters, (science), theare. decorative art, music, dance. Some large 3D relief. I noted that I shall visit Fundação Ricardo do Espírito Santo Silva> in Lisbon, Portugal, which preserve practice of baroque techniques. Nicely designed, but I like the building more than its content. On the way back in town, I took a bus in front of Institute of Technology.

Visited Casa Alfenique, all things Puebla (history, Travera, indoor deco). 3 stories of an overly baroque building.

Museo Taller Erasto Cortés located in the former Colegio de San Pablo, to promote the artist' engraving work.

In the afternoon, I took a different bus to the northwest suburb. There's a cluster of museum there. Walked through Museo Casa Del Titere. Well designed. You can stand in front of a group of puppets, and the video of these puppets will be played.
Casa de la Musica was closed due to remodeling.
Museum of Mexican Music was closed (COVID?).
Ex Fabrica "La Constancia" was closed when I was there. Not sure why.

Visited briefly Museo del Automóvi de Puebla, a city museum that's free on Thursday.

Walked through Paseo de los Gigantes. I actually liked it. Nice park with a pond, dotted with miniature buildings. Its eastern entrance is next to Bodega Aurrera. I bought some food beforing taking bus 19 back to the center.

Reserched for travel agencies in the evening.

1/17, Monday, Atlixco in the morning.

1/18, Tusday. Took a bus to the silly Volcan Cuexcomate, claimed to be the smallest volcano in the world, less than 10m high. It's actually a dead geyser. Bus 14 or any to Azateca. It's only ~3 miles away.

1/19-21, Wed-Friday. Exteneded for 1 night. Bought a tour for Wednesday, but they didn't have enough tourists, so Saturday. The city hall has a room with 6-7 tour agencies. They sell similar tours, as well as the hop on-off bus outside.

Visited to Patio Tiles next to the Airbnb on 1/19. It's small, but well worth the 5 minutes.

Requested time off work next week - my last week in Mexico (I'm flying home on 1/29).

1/22, Saturday, checked out. full day tour of Zacatlán and Chignahuapan. I was hoping to get off at Tlaxcala or Apizano. But it didn't work out. So back in Puebla, looked for another hotel for one night. Leaving Sunday morning.


Puebla routePuebla is UNESCO listed. Has a lot to visit, within the city limit, and around. Many bus companies going to various destinations. Direct bus to MEX airport. Continental climate, chilly at night, hot during the day. It's very dry. Many stately buildings with freshly painted facades (enforced by the city government within the historical center). I stayed for 12 days. However, because I didn't find a satisfying and cheap overnight base, I didn't feel like home here. Hope the next time, I'll be able to find a better home base.

For the future, I'd like to visit the following places and maybe join a tour:
  • Gran Telescopio Milimétrico Alfonso Serrano at 4600m on top of Volcan Negra, closed due to Covid.
  • tour of Cuetzalan, Yohualichan ruin, Cascada de La Gloria, Grutas de Aventura (Sundays, maybe Thursday)
  • tour of Cantóna ruin and Tlatlauquitepec, Cascada Tenaxate