Sunday, January 02, 2022

2022.1.1-2 Coscomatepec de Bravo, overnight trip from Orizaba - Wintering in Mexico, part 16

2022/1/1, Saturday. Stupid me couldn't open the kitchen door. Had to call for help. 10am (by the request of the owner), checked out, left my suitcase with Kia. I also agreed to come back before 4pm on Sunday. Walked along Paseo del river, to the AU bus terminal. Got on a bus to Cordoba at 10:35. I'm getting of at the toll at Fotín. 17 peso. I guess I should've gone there before coming to Orizaba.

Change to Cosmacotepec, another pueblo magico. Also one the gateways to Pico. At the hwy junction, just east of the toll booth, I waited in the Astro terminal (impossible to miss). Waited for about 15 minutes. At 11:18 got on a Terranouvel bus bound for Huatusco. 18 peso to Cosmacotepec. Cash only. No AC. Bus in good condition. Only a few empty seats.

Walked around the town center. Checked into a hotel San Antonio by the square. It's cheap and adequate. My room, maybe all rooms has a view of the hills on the opposite site. Asked the receptionist where to catch a camion for Jacal or Vaquaria. Took me awhile to figure out, no matter which direction you are heading to, all the rural trucks are taking the same route in town (along the same one way street 1 block below the center). No one goes to where I wanted. So many trucks, many with a route painted on the side, but I recognized none. After asking and studying the map for hours, I got on one to the waterfall Cocalzingo. One boy kindly vacated his bench spot for me, and hung out on the back.

20 pesos to be dropped off at the turn to the waterfall. I walked the gravel road, maybe 10 minutes. Cars are parked along the road, to to avoid paying the parking lot at the end. Houses selling cala lily, apart from the usual snacks. There's some cabins here. A lot of tourists, picnic on the hill in front of the falls. The waterfall itself is very thin. Tall, yes. Sheep too. Quite some cala lily grown here. The little creek isn't clean, probably due to the trash the crowd brings.

I didn't wait long for a return truck. Nice sunset from hotel San Antonio. After consulting the map again, I realized that it's probably better to have come here from Xalapas, via Huatusco.

1/2, Sunday. Up early, and walked about the town, looking for "Puente del Virrey", where a creek goes along the south end of the town. But it was ugly. I asked the gentleman at the hotel reception desk, he told me that it's not easy to get to, to the east. So, gave up. Took a similar rural truck to Alpatlahuac (yesterday, my truck passed by below the town), to visit this yellow capilla on a small hill at the end of the town. There are stairs to both the left and right side of the hill. Houses by the stairs. Two guys (seems father and son) were selling things door to door. The little chapel is simple, but freshly painted, great view of the surrounding hills and Pico de Orizaba.

Then I walked to the town of Calcahualco, via a slightly broken road dipping down an agriculture valley, and back up. A lot of chayotes. There's also a brightly painted chapel. Walking out of the town via the main road. Topiary trees in funny forms on the road leading to the town. A bit of walk. I only caught a truck from Altaplahuac. Less truck coming to Calchualco.

Back to the hotel ~11am. Walked out of the town, down to the highway to catch the bus. It's lunch time. Saw these 2 dancing in front of the restaurant to attract customers.



Terrible traffic getting into Fortin de las Flores, because the congestion in front of the toll booth. I got off the bus before it reached its terminal, and walked across the highway and into the town. It's about 0.5 miles to the town center, on busy dusty roads. The town has two adjacent squares, both are quite nice. My destination is another mile further to Museo Tatsugoro.

The museum is very small, and you can see most of its bonsai from the street. It's crowded with various bonsais. I was hoping for more signs and descriptions of the style or methods, but none. There were occasional signs of the species of the plant. Nice view of the small pool by the house (too hazy today to see Pico de Orizaba). 2 students unlock the door to let you in and out, and can give you explanation in Spanish (not very useful to me). 10 pesos. It's still a nice reprise from the traffic jam. Where the museum is is a quiet residential neighborhood.

Back to the highway in front of the toll booth. Joined many who were waiting for the bus. So many, after letting two stuffed bus go by, I decided to muscle myself in with others. Back to my Airbnb by 4pm, as I promised. My room is cleaned, and there's an extra chair that I requested. It's very dirty, so took me awhile to clean it.