Flew to Lima 8:10 - 9:35am. Rented a locker (s/28), shared a taxi (s/36.5) to Lima Centro with Amy and Tom from Inca Trail.
It was ugly all the way in. However, Plaza Mayor is in full colonial glory, flanked by the cathedral to the east, Palacio de Gobierno to the north (a replica of Pizarro's residence once stood here), and Palacio Municipal (city hall) to the west. Guard change M-Sat 11:45-12:15 inside the gate of presidential palace. To visit, make a reservation at least one day ahead at the tourism office 201 Jr. de la Union, 311-3908 or www.presidencia.gob.pe.
The only thing survived the 1746 earthquake is the small bronze fountain (1651 by Pedro de Noguera) at the center of the plaza.Catedral de Lima (s/20, free English guided tour, however, after trying about five guides, I still didn't get half of what they tried to tell.) claims to contain the remains of Francisco Pizarro, who died in Lima in 1541.
In the center is 40-some-seat wooden choir ensemble carved by Pedro de Noguera. 
Below, all archbishops of Lima repose in the small crypt. It also houses the very first Peruvian university diploma. The declaration of independence was signed in this room in 1821.
A much more interesting church is Convento de San Francisco (s/5, free Spanish guide). Some priceless treasures here: a 2-story Franciscan library with over 25000 rare books, a bamboo dome able to withstand any quake, a painting of last supper with Peruvian food (guinea pig, potatoes, ...), and 
the beautiful cloister (now half as what used to be) inlaid with Sevillian tiles and murals depicting the life of St. Francis of Assisi. 
An eerie highlight is the catacombs, narrow underground passages containing skulls and bones of over 25000 bodies, neatly arranged for photos. Before the city cemetery was opened in 1808, corpses were dumped under this church. Now only Franciscan brothers can be interred here.There're many other churches to visit in Lima Central. A hectic pedestrian street La Union connects Plaza Mayor and the grassy Plaza San Martin.
Lima is big on cerviche, a traditional dish of raw white fish marinated in lemon and tossed with onion, or any seafood or fish. Prices are higher here than Cusco. Equally salty. I didn't find any chicha here. Lots of stalls selling fresh squeezed orange juice.
Miraflores, a well-to-do suburb bordering Pacific ocean. As the sun sets down, Parque Kennedy comes to life. A dozen venders set up their second-hand stalls. Even kids came out to play under street lights. I enjoyed a box of sweet concoction of hot porridge and purple fruit syrup, topped with shreds of coconut. Also bought a bottle of pisco sour in the crowded vicinity.Taxi to airport (s/25) to catch the midnight flight out of Lima. Hefty international airport tax ($30). Back to Seattle around 10:30 the next morning, sound and content, yet tired.
