Wednesday, June 28, 2006

Two weeks in Cusco, Peru. 6/14 - day 3. Tambomachay - Puca Pucara - Q'enco - Sacsayhuamán.

Taxi (s/15) to Tambomachay, a water worshiping site. The water from the underground stream here was believed to be purest in the Inca Empire. Bodies to be mummified were supposed to be cleansed with this water first.

Puca Pucara (red fort) is a few hundred meters down the road. The original function of this place is unknown. During war time, the Incas used it to house soldiers in many tambos (resting rooms). Much of the present site was a reconstruction, as most of the original rocks were looted for building materials throughout the centuries as in many other ruins.

A pleasant 1.5-hour hike slightly downhill in the fields with (finally) no tourists around, leads to Templo de la Luna. First 20 mins or so were along the road, passing a couple of houses selling chicha, marked by a red bow tied to a stick at the door. The temple is just a large boulder with a small cave. The solstice moon is supposed to shine directly into the small opening onto the altar inside. Some vague carvings of the Inca trilogy (condor, puma and serpent) can be found at the entrance.

About 1 km down the main road is the Qenco (zigzag), another huge limestone outcrop. Two zigzag channels were carved into the rock. Blood of llama was to poured down, and depending on which channel it took, Inca priest foretold the future. These two sites are not very interesting.

The last stop on the way down to Cusco is Sacsayhuamán, one of the most imposing Inca ruins I've visited. This stone seller has a nice description of the site. Most of the stones here are twice as tall as me. Fitted perfectly, in a massive scale. Imagin what it was alike, after being told that this is what's left (too heavy to be transported) after serving as a municipal stone quarry until 1935, you just cannot help to be in awe. Sacsayhuamán (speckled head) is believed to form the head of a puma, whose body is the city of Cusco (which means navel). During Inca Manco Capac II's rebellion against the Spanish in 1536, this is the famous battle site where 5000 troops were garrisoned to attack Cusco. Even though they had an upper hand at the beginning (Juan Pizarro died from a wound in an attempt to win the area), the battle ended with Manco Capac's retreat to Ollantaytambo.

We ended the day munching chiriuchu, the traditional food to be had on the eve of the Corpus Christi: A plate (s/10) ladened with pieces of chicken, stuffed (very salty) guinea pig, a chunk of sausage called salchicha, some seaweed called cochayuyo, a bit stinky fish roes, toasted corns, cheese, hot pepper, and a wedge of tasty yet greasy potato cake.

6:30pm, briefing at Andean Life office for the 4-day trek of the classic Inca Trail the next day. Met our guide Ali and his assistant Herbert. This is one of the many tour operators around Plaza de Armas. Total cost $330 + tip (~$40).