Thursday, June 29, 2006

Two weeks in Peru. 6/26 - last day. Lima, the capital.
Flew to Lima 8:10 - 9:35am. Rented a locker (s/28), shared a taxi (s/36.5) to Lima Centro with Amy and Tom from Inca Trail.
It was ugly all the way in. However, Plaza Mayor is in full colonial glory, flanked by the cathedral to the east, Palacio de Gobierno to the north (a replica of Pizarro's residence once stood here), and Palacio Municipal (city hall) to the west. Guard change M-Sat 11:45-12:15 inside the gate of presidential palace. To visit, make a reservation at least one day ahead at the tourism office 201 Jr. de la Union, 311-3908 or www.presidencia.gob.pe.
The only thing survived the 1746 earthquake is the small bronze fountain (1651 by Pedro de Noguera) at the center of the plaza.
Catedral de Lima (s/20, free English guided tour, however, after trying about five guides, I still didn't get half of what they tried to tell.) claims to contain the remains of Francisco Pizarro, who died in Lima in 1541. In the center is 40-some-seat wooden choir ensemble carved by Pedro de Noguera. Below, all archbishops of Lima repose in the small crypt. It also houses the very first Peruvian university diploma. The declaration of independence was signed in this room in 1821.

A much more interesting church is Convento de San Francisco (s/5, free Spanish guide). Some priceless treasures here: a 2-story Franciscan library with over 25000 rare books, a bamboo dome able to withstand any quake, a painting of last supper with Peruvian food (guinea pig, potatoes, ...), and the beautiful cloister (now half as what used to be) inlaid with Sevillian tiles and murals depicting the life of St. Francis of Assisi. An eerie highlight is the catacombs, narrow underground passages containing skulls and bones of over 25000 bodies, neatly arranged for photos. Before the city cemetery was opened in 1808, corpses were dumped under this church. Now only Franciscan brothers can be interred here.
There're many other churches to visit in Lima Central. A hectic pedestrian street La Union connects Plaza Mayor and the grassy Plaza San Martin.

Lima is big on cerviche, a traditional dish of raw white fish marinated in lemon and tossed with onion, or any seafood or fish. Prices are higher here than Cusco. Equally salty. I didn't find any chicha here. Lots of stalls selling fresh squeezed orange juice.

Miraflores, a well-to-do suburb bordering Pacific ocean. As the sun sets down, Parque Kennedy comes to life. A dozen venders set up their second-hand stalls. Even kids came out to play under street lights. I enjoyed a box of sweet concoction of hot porridge and purple fruit syrup, topped with shreds of coconut. Also bought a bottle of pisco sour in the crowded vicinity.

Taxi to airport (s/25) to catch the midnight flight out of Lima. Hefty international airport tax ($30). Back to Seattle around 10:30 the next morning, sound and content, yet tired.

2006.6.25 - Two weeks in Cusco, Peru - day 14.

Huchuy Cusco (little cusco) is high up the hill (4.8km one way, steep) west of the village of Lamay (2930m, s/2.5 bus from Cusco, 11km north of Pisac), across the bridge over the Urubamba River. It took me about 3 hrs up, and 1 hr down. The entire hike was unshaded: dry dirt path lined with bushes barely half as my height. I was dead tired going up. At km 2.0, had to take a nap in the only resting place along the trail: a straw hut. The scotching sun turned to hail while I was dozing off. It later turned to rain, and then quited down. Luckily the sun only came out again when we began our descent, lost all its earlier force. At km 4.0, the slope becomes gentler, and you loose the sight of the bottom of the valley, and gain a glimpse of the adobe+stone walls of the ruin. It's thought to be the hideaway of Inca Wiracocha during the Chanca invasion. There's a community of 128 people, farming in this idyllic land, high above the world, overlooking snow capped mountains. We met a girl who was herding some sheep on the slopes behind the ruins. The three dogs of hers fought for the bread crumbs in my hand.

2006.6.24. Two weeks in Cusco, Peru

6/24, Saturday, Inti Raymi, the sun festival. This site offers detailed descriptions and nice photos.

All started at ~9:20am at the grassy square of Qoricancha. It took half an hour for all groups of performers to appear, men first, then the chosen women. A high priest gave a speech (all in Quechua) from the balcony of Qoricancha casting some plants down to the spectators. Finally the Inca came out, calling for God. At ~10am, the royal followers walked along Pampa del Castillo and Loreto, to Plaza de Armas, carrying Inca and his queen in elevated seats. From there, the whole assembly marched up to Sacsayhuamán.

We lunched before joining the hordes at Sacsayhuamán. Needed some food in order to hike up the rather steep 2km slope. By the time we arrived (~2pm), it was difficult to find a spot on the surrounding hills. (For $80, you can buy a seat from a central office ahead of time. Maybe the most profitable show on earth!) Many people picnicked here. Women selling popcorns and popsicles. Looked like a family outing day. Some of them didn't seem to care about the spectacle, settling comfortably in places completely barred from the view of the stage.
Pyres of branches and dry grass were lit, generating lots of smoke. A llama was selected and sacrificed. It started hailing before llama was killed for a short while, but didn't stall the performance. The high priest took out the entrails trying to read some future out of it. He threw a piece into the fire, and then offered the bleeding heart to the Inca, and the Inca ate a piece of it, while giving a long discourse. With the announcement of the beginning of a new year, more dances followed, until about 3pm. To me, it was equally fun to watch all the coming and going of spectators (sometimes in perilous locations), the noise, the comments, and business transactions (tossing popcorns and coins).

Finally everyone left, leaving the entire ground covered with litter. Before heading down to town, we walked over to the silly Cristo Blanco, a Brazilian present.
Two weeks in Cusco, Peru 6/23 - day 12. Fair at Huancaro (s/3).
Dumped laundry, moved hotel to Colonial Palace on the same street ($35), which I booked earlier. It was not a good move: noisy (a church group did a long sermon in the early evening that day), thin curtains. Reliable hot water.

Went to the fair at the Huancaro suburb. Apparently this had been going on for a few days already. Pet zoos / vendors for alpacas, llamas, cows, guinea pigs (s/20 live and cute) and rabbits. Endless stalls selling various produces (I bought some honey). Government agriculture display and even an environment awareness booth. And of course, food and drink. We watched one of the alpaca beauty contests, when it rained. Ate roasted pig (lechon) and guinea pig (cuy, not much meat, tender, but skin was a bit tough. Same salty spice. s/20.) I think I prefer these rodents alive.

In the afternoon, we visited the Cathedral (s/16, 1559-1669) . Nice carved choir, some paintings by the Cusco School, many dull chapels. The only thing interesting is a painting of Last Supper, where Jesus and his disciples feast on a guinea pig. Museo Inka (s/10), housed in the 17th century Palacio del Almirante, is well organized. Excellent guide. A hour-long history lesson of the pre-Inca Chimu, Mochica, Nasca, Pucara, Tiahuanaco and Wari people, and their influences to Inca, the Spanish conquest. There is a 3000 year-old funeral cloth, still in wonderful shape and vivid in color. A model of Queshwachaka bridge over Apurimac River, entirely made out of straws. Our guide emphasized the organization of Inca and their agriculture skills. According to her, these are the two crucial merits that enabled Inca to govern and expand, welcomed by various local tribes.

Went shopping at the Centro Artesanal Cusco off Ave. El Sol bordering Pachacutec. Bought more alpaca sweaters and scarves. More parades, well into the night. Ave El Sol was full of people and food stands. Drank a glass of hot soy-based sweet concoction. I liked it.
Two weeks in Cusco, Peru. 6/22 - day 11. Chinchero - Moray - Las Salineras.
Chinchero (bus s/2, 45 min. elev. 3762m) was once Inca Tupac Yupanqui's country resort. Inca terraces, still in use by the local farmers. The small Spanish church (closes noon-1) is complete covered by colorful murals.

The tiny village of Maras is 4km west of the main road between Urubamba (~10 min) and Chinchero (~20 min). Beautiful scenery: snow peaks of Vilcanota Mountains, planted rolling hills, kids walking home from school (5km?) along the long dirt road, together with donkeys full of loads.
Hitched a taxi (s/55, probably was ripped off) to visit Moray (s/5, 8km NW.) and Las Salineras (s/5, 7km N.). Moray consists of three sets of concentric terraces (still farmed with potatoes, oats, and ...), in the natural depressions of the earth. Believed to be an agricultural experiment lab even before the Incas. Temperatures were said to be up to 15 degrees higher in the lower levels. However, I couldn't feel that.
Apparently, local potatoes tasted salty. There's an underground stream so saline that white crystals form on the rocks alongside the water. The water is also quite warm. The pre-Inca salt pans, 4000 pozas (shallow pools), dug into the hillside, still produce salt today.

A quick stroll and meal in the busy yet unimpressive town of Urubamba (elev. 2871m) in the valley. Caught the bus back to Cusco (last one leaves at 7pm). I must have eaten something bad, had a terrible fit in the bowel an hour later on the bus.

2009.6.21. Day 10 in Peru

Two weeks in Cusco, Peru, 6/21 - day 10. Rest.
More parades.
Campesino Festival in a basketball court (dance competition, sale of produces).

Visited Saint Domingo, and Qorikancha (s/6, gold palace), the most sacred place in Cusco. Unfortunately, no more gold. Temples of the sun, the moon, and the stars. Most of what we saw was reconstruction. You can see the cracks between the Inca stones in our attempt to put them back. The tiny museum (boleto turistico) underground houses limited items from the excavation of the ground, including some elongated skulls.

Early in the evening, we dropped some medical supplies at the Ninos Hotel, and went for a guided tour of the foundation (operates two hotels and two restaurants). Four separate sites, each feeds about 125 children of age 6 to 12. Peruvian elementary schools have either morning sessions or afternoon sessions. Kids, entrusted by their relatives, are dropped off here M-Sat for breakfast. Then half of the kids go to school, half stay on for either study help, game/physical exercises, medical/dental checkup. After lunch these kids go to school and the other half stayed on for the same assistance. The relative come and pick the kids up in the evening. Twice a week, they get to take a shower, and once awhile, all bus-ed to the city swimming pool for a cool down. We visited the kitchen (with a large log book of planned menus), dining room (doubled as classroom), shower room, washing room (lined up with colorful plastic cups with tooth brush labeled with names), an indoor basketball court, a doctor's room (paid by the foundation). Totally 40 some employees work here (most are paid). Seems to be well run and funded (mostly by the Netherlands government and private foreign donation).

At 7pm we arrived at the Teatro Municipal for a concert. This time we were the first audience. Again things started half an hour late after more people filed in. First group was the 14-year-old Orquestra de Camara Andina "Haylli". I like the second half better : chorus of about 20 voices. Somehow they love speakers. The volume was cranked up to the max.
After the concert, ate a pre-ordered stuffed guinea pig for dinner. Too salty.

2006.6.20. Day 9 in Peru

Two weeks in Cusco, Peru 6/20 - day 9. Tipón - Pikillacta.

More parade on the main plaza, this time with older kids. Lunch at the Mercado Central. A big bowl of chicken soup, salad, fried fish and lentil over rice, all for s/3. It's advisable not to eat salad here!

Tipón, 23km SE of Cusco (bus s/2, then 4km uphill on dirt road - taxi s/8), is an impressive "renovated" expanse of terraces, with seemingly endless vertical irrigation channels.

7km further is the Huari (or Wari) ruin of Pikillacta and its thick aqua duct bridge (reinforced by the Incas) Rumicolca. A rock band was shooting a commercial here. (s/28 taxi from Tipon).
Pikillacta is immense, broken, bleak, surrounded by a rampart. Wari (AD 600-950) was a warrior tribe. It's not hard to imagine the busy labyrinthine complex full of barracks and storage rooms in its heydays.
Two weeks in Cusco, Peru. 6/19 - day 8. Rest.
Watched an endless parade by little kids at the plaza. Very cute. Dumped dirty laundry (s/3/kg) from the hike. Checked into Hostal Machu Picchu (s/70 no breakfast) on Q'era to be closer to food, and slightly further from the tourist center. It turned out to be an okay move, quiet, not freezing, good mattress, windows can be locked with single pane shutters. Hot water was not 100% reliable in the morning. There seemed to have some bugs in blanket, even though I didn't get a single bite.
Visited Convent of Santa Catalina (part of the Boleto Turistico). Boring religious paintings of the Cusco School. The tiny Museo de Arte Popular is not bad.
Checked out the market. Bustling, dazzling. Drank a pitcher of freshly squeezed juice.
When we returned to the old hotel to pick up the luggage (battery and charger were gone) and the laundry (missing a hat) next door, we ran into another parade on the plaza. This time by adults.
After an early dinner, a concert at Teatro Municipal, titled "Homenaje Al Cusco". Presented by faculty and students of Instituto Superior de Música Público. Show started 30 minutes late. Other than the squeaky violins, it was nice. I liked the flutes and the guitars.

Wednesday, June 28, 2006

2006.6.15-18 Two weeks in Cusco, Peru - Inca Trail

6/15-18 Inca Trail (s/198 charged by Instituto Nacional de Cultura) to Machu Picchu.

5:30am hotel pickup. Half an hour later, after counting maybe the 10th time, one British boy going to the airport finally realized that he was on a wrong bus! Breakfast at Ollantaytambo (km 68) an hour later. Road ends at km 82 (2600m). After loading all gears, buying poles and straps, our group proceeded to the first check point. They really took this seriously. Passport stamped, number verified. My last name was misspelled, but they didn't catch it.

The trail follows Urubamba River (as was the bus/train), with a view of Mt Veronica, just before Willkarakay, our first stop. On this grassy plateau, Ali gave us a lecture on Inca agriculture at the hillside ruin Patallacta (or Llactapata, 2650m) just over the bluff. I was glad to sit down and dump my backpack for awhile even though I wasn't carrying much.

From here, the slope picked up. We lunched at Hatunchaca (2950m) around 1:30pm. A treat (as other meals). A tent was set up, and beside it placed 5-6 plastic basins with water, soap and towel. Three courses: avocado salad, instant soup, breaded trout over rice. Everyone took a nap afterwards.

Uneventful afternoon. A brief stop at the last community on the trail Wayllabamba (3100m). A chicha window here boasts "we accept visa, master card". We reached the camping site Yuncachimpa (3300m) around 4:30 and had tea and cookies at 5pm. Then a formal introduction of each porter and every paying customer. 14 porters aged 21 to 51 (most under 30), worked on this trail for 2 to 10 years (most 4). Each was allowed to carry up to 20kg, including all tents, food, cooking utensils, and stupid plastic chairs. 14 gringos: 2 Finn couples, 2 Singapore brothers, 2 New Zealanders, 1 Aussie, 1 British, 4 from Seattle (coincidently as we learned later, they flew home on the very same planes as we did) !!!
Dinner at 7: soup, chicken, desert. The night sky was splendid.
Total for the day, about 16km.

Day 2. ~14km, the toughest. Up at 7, breakfast (bread, jam, tea, instant coffee/coco, hot pancake?), on the road at 8. Reached the first pass Abra de warmi wañusca (meaning dead woman, 4200m) around 10:15. It was a long haul. I was completely out of breath, even felt a bit drowsy towards the top. On the way, many of us tried to chew coca leaves. Even though everyone was sweating in T-shirts on the way up, it was freezing at the pass. Foggy all the way down to Paqaymayu (the largest camp site on the trail, 3500m), our lunch stop.

Now time to climb again. On the way, we paused at Runkurakay (3800m), a small round Inca ruin, served as a watch tower or a tambo for messenger relays. A small lake (the only one on this trail) at Qochapata just before the 2nd pass at 3950m. Those who still had energy left spent a few minutes scrambling up a big boulder on the right of the pass.

There was a side trail going up to Sayaqmarka (3600m), shortly before the bottom of the valley. Too foggy to see anything. It started raining soon afterwards. By the night fall, it poured. Our camp site at Chaquiqocha (3680m) was on the edge. Bathroom required a 10-minute hike. Now you can imagine what happened at night when one needed to relieve some pressure in the bladder.

Day 3. ~ 9km. Rain stopped. Cloud forest all day. Passed a couple of Inca tunnels, many wet plants and hidden birds. Walked over the 3rd pass (3670m) unnoticed. Foggy most of the morning. Couldn't see much of Phuyupatamarka (3600m), a long chain of Inca baths. Supposed to be well preserved. Dommage!

From now on, steep and narrow trail downhill. At a power line tower (yes!), the trail splited in two. We took a longer / gentler route to visit Intipata (2850m), adjacent to Machu Picchu mountain. A set of steep terraces.
Arrived at the huge camping ground (the only place that offers hot shower on the trail. s/5. long queue.) around 1pm. After lunch: soup, beef stroganoff, veggie and rice, Ali took us to Wiñay Wayna, a stroll away. Its vast terraces were in perfect order. For some unknown reason, I fell sick in the afternoon, didn't go for the tea, when the rest of us were collecting tips for the porters. At dinner, as soon as I swallowed a spoonful of soup, I threw up everything since lunch, and felt much better. But I couldn't eat for the rest of the trek, except for hot tea and a bit of dry bread. After dinner, it was the funny ceremony of handing the tip to the porters, as we would part the next morning. Apart from expressing gratitude (from both sides), there involved a bit singing and dancing. We all enjoyed it in the now terribly crowded tent.

Day 4. ~4km. Machu Picchu. Up at 4, out by 5am. 10 minutes walk with flash light to the last checkpoint, which opens at 5:30am. We were the first group to arrive. By the time we reached the Sun Gate, the sun has shined its first rays on Wayna Picchu. Now, the first glimpse of Machu Picchu. It was GRAND!

After a bathroom stop (s/0.5) and luggage check-in (free), we were herded through a high priest's house (notably evenly shaped stones of the wall), an astronomical observatory (with two trapezoid windows, one of which opens directly towards the sun at winter solstice), the royal tomb, the three-windowed temple, the garden with some coca plant, and finally at Intiwatana (the sun temple, whose large slab of stone shaped in Southern Cross perfectly aligned to magnetic north). Then we were let loose until 2pm.

1 hr hike up Wayna Picchu (an absolute must. Need to check in at the trail head no later than 1pm? and check out when leaving) for the moon temple and the splendid view of the entire Machu Picchu site and the surrounding mountains. The trail is extremely steep and narrow. At times only half my feet could land on the steps, and had to use all four limbs at the top!

After coming down from Wayna Picchu, visited the Temple of Condor, the Mortars, some of the storage rooms, the massive terraces, and photo-ed the llamas sent by the tourism office.

We took the bus ($6) at around 1:30 down to Agua Caliente, an unimpressive town despite the gorgeous setting. Most tourists were crowded on the overpriced side of the river. Walk over the bridge and venture beyond the train station, you'll get a better local flavor. Train at 3:55pm from Agua Caliente (PeruRail, $44 on class turismo for backpackers) to Cusco (110km, 4 hrs). Crowded and smelled of dirty socks! Everyone had a seat, but very little leg room. The first half of the journey was pleasant, along the Urubamba River. The rest was painfully slow: zigzagging over mountain passes. At one of the stops, greyhound-like buses tried to lure passengers out. They claimed to be 15 min. to Cusco, and charged s/15, while our train still had over an hour to go. If it were not for the promise that someone from Andean Life would meet us at the train station with our luggage, I would jump off the train. Alas, a bus did come to meet us and then circled around the town to every hotel. No bags!