11/27, Sunday. It was chilling and dark.
I was the only one waiting for the 7am bus. I wasn't sure that the bus schedule is up to date, and why it's so early.
The bus did come, only a couple of minutes late, and about 3 people on board.
I practically slept all the way back to Granada.
Took the next ALSA bus to Córdoba (quite frequent). 106 m, 348 ft.
On the way, I looked up what beer to try next, and found that Alhambra, Cruzcampo and San Miguel are the most popular in Spain.
The bus+train station in Cordoba is about 1 mile to downtown.
It's a new concrete building, but nicely designed to showcase the Roman ruin found during the construction, in a sunken garden.
Checkin is at 2:30pm, rather late.
Afterwards, I walked through the town to the 1st century Roman Bridge.
On the way, checked out this cute little alley. There're many other narrow alleys. This one is decked out with little pots of flowers.
Passed Patio de los Naranjos (8:30-18:00), this became my favorite spot in the city, which I'd come over again and again.
Orange trees laiden with fruits are common in Andalucia.
But this courtyard next to the cathedral (old mosque) is the most lovely.
The Roman Bridge is very long, 16 thick arches over River Guadalquivir.
It's pedestrian only now.
Most of the current structure dated to 8th century Arab reconstruction.
Many more restorations later, most recently in 2008, replacing the brick pavement with pink marble slabs, significantly altered the appearance.
I walked to its south bank (more ugly modern buildings on this side), along the river and back on a motorway (Miraflores bridge 2003), and returned to the historical downtown.
Quite some ducks in the shallow water.
A couple of old, reconstructed water mills (not moving).
In the evening, I went to the bridge again. It's lit. A nice place for a stroll.
11/28, Monday.
Visited the mosque-cathedral right at 8. Between 8-9, admission is free.
Quite a few queued up at the entrance, but it is so large, I soon was wandering around more or less alone.
The Great Mosque was originally constructed in 785-787, when Córdoba was the capital of Al-Andalus.
It was expanded many times since, noteably in the late 10th century, a new mihrab with interlacing multifoil arches under a decorative ribbed dome (see left most photo), and a minerat was added, maybe to celebrate the newly proclaimed caliphate of Al-Andalus.
Converted to a cathedral in 1239.
In the 16th century, a Renaissance nave and trancept were inserted in the center, and the minerat was converted to a bell tower.
This is a must-see in town.
Hundreds of columns with red-white brick double arches.
A small exhibition inside shows some Roman building fragments.
Patio de los Naranjos is the courtyard of the Great Mosque. Trees were planted as early as early 9th century. But exact species is unknown. In the mideval time, these were palm trees.
Plaza de la Corredera is a lovely 17th century town square, a bit of walk from the main drag.
Old city hall and city jail is here.
Visited a few more old churches, all with Moorish flavors. This one is Santa Marina.
San Miguel, San Pablo are also nice.
A few houses are open as museums, like Palacio Viana, the synagogue.
Walked to Merced garden and Palacio de la Merced (18th century building on a 13th century convent) with a colorful cloister, now the provincial govenment building.
These are all on the outskirt of the historical downtown, but walkable.
A lot of walking. After a rest in the hotel,
I took a book to Patio de los Naranjos to while away the rest of the afternoon.
Then walked to the Roman bridge again before retiring for the day.
11/29, Tuesday.
Went to Alcázar.
They let me in before the official openning (8:30am).
Home to Christian kings whenever they come to visit.
Worth noting, here is where Ferdinand and Isabella welcomed Christopher Columbus who explained his plans to find a westbound sea route to India.
The garden here is advertised everywhere, especially for the light show at night.
A few long reflection pools with fountains.
Manicured topiary trees, rose bushes. No Muqarnas ceiling, or much of elaborate plasters.
Many large plastic installations, which I think looks tacky (at least during the day).
It's like a small piece of Generrife of Alhambre.
For the cheap €5.81 price, it's a very pleasant garden. Especially this early, I was the only person walking around.
A short visit to the old baños (underground) just north of the Alcazar (same ticket).
Checked out, went to wait for Maria Teresa at the taxi stand in front of the bus stations. My 2nd BlaBlaCar ride, this time to Carmona. Her 10am departure fit my schedule the best.
