The Granada bus station is far from the city center. Almost 2 miles north of my hotel, which I promised to arrive before 9pm. All new developments. Half way in, it started to look nice, lots of lights and people. The guy at the front desk gave me a map, and drew on it how to get to Alhambra, where are tapa spots and different miradors.
~9pm, I walked to Paseo de los Tristes (the front desk guy's favorite spot in the city),
under the shade of the Alhambra on the other side of the Darro River.
It has already wound down. Maybe because this is winter, all the restaurants were closed or closing.
Still pretty, still quite some tourists.
Bought some food and a bottle of wine since I'd stay put for 3 nights. Took the bottle to the front desk to open. They lend me a proper opener. Another guest came down for the same request. In the end, I didn't like this wine.
The shower here has 5 spa nozzles. Almost need an instruction how to operate. At least the hot water made me feel better. I had a mild headache and probably a fever. Took my Covid antigen test: positive!
11/24, Thanksgiving. Alhambra, the highlight of this trip.
I purchased a general entrance ticket (includes all sights) at its official website (€14) before I left Seattle.
I picked 9am. I should have picked the very first entrance to Nasrid Palace at 8:30.
All other entries are not timed.
From my hotel, it's a short (uphill) walk.
I wasn't allowed in until 9 sharp. They scan your passport.
In order to take photos without too many tourists, I had to wait a lot.
But soon I realized that the next group had arrived.
At least the early morning batches are smaller.
Later on, I saw long lines at the check point.
The complex started in 13th century, mostly built in 14-15th centuries,
by Nasrid dynasty, last Islamic rulers in Iberic Peninsular (see Emirate of Granada. In fact Granada didn't start to prosper until 11th century after the collapse of Caliphate of Córdoba).
Mohammed I ibn Nasr aligned Granada with Ferdinand III of Castile in 1246, paying tribute (parias) to Castilian kings, thus Granada remained a state for the next 250 years (the longest Muslin reign in Iberia) despite of minor skirmishes), paying gold and occasionally military assistance to Castile.
This palace is stunning, surpassed my already high expectation.
This is a must see, a treasure worth flying here just for it alone.
Still being restored. The garden behind the palace was closed.
The intricate plasters on the wall, archways, Muqarnas ceilings and wood carvings everywhere.
Fountains and reflection pools everywhere.
The Court of the Lions is an exquisit gem, merits its own wiki page.
Ropes restricted tourist to the center of the patio where the lions are.
Little fountains at its four sides.
A long and pleasant walk, by more fountains, pools and flowers to Generalife.
Along the way, tall manicured trees provide shade.
After the palace, 2 more checkpoints at Alcazaba, and the garden. No check at Generalife or Carlos V.
Alhambra became the Royal Court of Ferdinand and Isabella after Granada War, and the palaces were partially altered.
For example, the building of Carlos V is neoclassical, built in 16-17th century.
Napoleon's troop (during Peninsular War) also destroyed part of the site.
The Alcazaba is more interesting to visit.
A fortress to protect the palace.
Great view of the Sierra mountains.
On 2 January 1492, the last Muslim ruler in Iberia, Emir Muhammad XII ("Boabdil"), surrendered to the Catholic Monarchs (Ferdinand II of Aragon and Isabella I of Castile). The terms of the surrender, Treaty of Granada, explicitly allowed the mudéjares to continue their faith and customs, and the Jews 3 years to convert or leave. However, on March 31, Alhambra Decree, forced all Jews in Spain to convert or be expelled within 4 months. By 1499, Cardinal Cisneros undertook a program of forced baptisms, which provoked Rebellion of the Alpujarras. In response, the crown of Castille rescinded Treaty of Granada, mandated Muslin to convert or exile. Thus caused the remaining Muslin elite to leave. The city started a long slowly decline.
After Alhambra, I walked to Sacromente and then Albaicin, 2 hilly neighborhoods north of Alhambra.
Good view of Alhambra, but the light in the early afternoon is not good.
Albaicin is a little more touristy.
Most popular spot here is Mirador San Nicolás.
I like the little alleys and stairs here. They all connect to each other.
Very rarely I'd hit an end, and had to back out.
There are patterns of little pebbles to add some friction.
Returned to hotel before venturing out again for sunset.
I walked up to Mirador San Nicolás.
A lot of people now.
The next door, a mosque with a garden, also perfect for the same view, but I was too late. They don't let anyone in after 5:30pm.
When I was here earlier, it was closed for siesta.
Walked back down to town. It was bustling now with shoppers and diners.
Visited the cathedral. Went back to the hotel early.
Looked for ticket for Guadix, because I saw that the city website advertises a guided tour at 10am on Fridays for its Alcazaba.
Tomorrow is Friday. I made an online reservation.
11/25 Friday. Took my very first BlaBla ride, with Alicia to Guadix. There are many more departures on the BlaBlaCar app than the bus schedules, from very early (~6am) to midnight. These are drivers who have empty seat in their cars. The app shows the pickup and dropoff locations in respect to your prefered locations, and sort them, so it's very easy to select. Price is usually similar to the bus, sometimes cheaper some time more. All drivers (and later I learned that all riders too) have a rating. Alicia is rated 5 out of 5. The app is in Spanish. I used Google Translate to message the drivers. It worked out very well.
I wore face mask, and she put one on too. The main reason that I went with Alicia is that her meeting spot is much closer than the bus station. She teaches English in Guadix, but prefers to live in Granada and drive everyday for work. She lived in Cincinnati for 3 years. So we could have a real conversation in English. She said that I need to call the owner of the castle at Calahorra in order to see the inside.
Wind turbines along the road (was dark when I went along the drive 2 days ago).
Alicia dropped me off near the cathedral ~9am. I walked about.
The cathedral is nice enough.
The Roman theatre ruin outside is not much to see.
Of course no one came to open the gate at 10, even though I banged on the door, and there were workers inside. Many houses here look abandonned.
I walked to the city hall to inquire about this guided tour.
The lady the sent me to the tourism office.
There, I was informed that the tour is at 11am every Friday, and I need to register with them, instead of the city.
But today, the tour is at 11:30 to accommodate a large group from Seville.
The ladies heard that I came here only for the visit and my return bus is at 12:40, which means I could only participate half of the tour, they told me to file a reclamation, and demand my bus money back.
I told them I don't want any money.
I filed an incident report. They told me to come back at 11:30.
I went to buy the bus ticket, and back to the city square by 11:30. Seeing no group came, the lady at the tourism office took me to Alcazaba and talked about the inside. She hoped when the group finally arrives, we'll talk about the outside together.
The Alcazaba startes its first wall in the 11th century.
In 12th, 2nd wall was built.
In 13th century, a few more towers were erected.
But after the Arabs were chased out of Iberia, it fell into desrepair.
At some point, it became a mid-school's football field.
This visit is certainly not worth the trouble, but it gave me lots of opportunities to speak Spanish.
Took the bus back to Granada. On the walk home bought some grocery from Mercadona, including an Alhambra beer, and some 100% jambon iberico.
The beer is good. The ham is salty and marbled. Very tasty.
This little plastic pack is over €7.
A serrano ham with mixed breed (50% Iberico, 50% Durac) is half the price, but equally tasty, not as marbled.
Went up to Albaicin again, and then walked around the city.
Visited the first city hall Palacio Madraza (1722-29, looks better than the current one).
The ancient camel stall (1300-32), which I visited last night.
The old silk market, now narrow streets full of cute shops.
After dinner, I went to Paseo Los Tristes again, this time just before 8pm.
Should be prime dinner time. Still not as busy as downtown.
At least I felt slightly better today, so had energy to read the city culture signages.
For example, this broken bridge (Puerta Tableros, 11th century) was a military post by the guard of Alhambra, and also a place to fetch water.
11/26 Saturday. Leaving the city, heading to the snowy Sierra Nevada.
Update: in early Feb 2023, I received a letter from the city hall of Guadix informing me that website has corrected the incorrect information.
