11/17, Thursday. Woke up late. Final edit of my presentation.
Only after lunch, did I make it into the town. It was very lively. Other than the mandetary mask on bus/trams, I didn't see people wearing face mask.
The city had drained the water of Turia River that surrounds downtown. Now the river bed is made to a wide green space.
Once over the dried river, ugly constructions gave away to nicer and older buildings and squares.
The old rampart almost completely disappeared, apart from a couple of towers, which were closed everytime I walked by. Once it wasn't even closed, but the guard wouldn't let anyone in, because he was waiting for tourists to come down, so he could leave on time.
I needed to be back at 3:30pm for my 4pm talk. Only 5 students showed up at my talk, because they had an exam the next day.
After the talk, MT gave me a tour of his new apartment ‐ still in progress (more than a year after they bought the place). It's entirely redone. This wouldn't be possible in US (with our stringy HOA bylaws). Then we walked into downtown.
On the way, we visited the gourmet basement of El Ingles and Mercadona.
I was shocked at the low price of alcohol (table wine goes down to €1), the large size of olive oil (in gallons). So many different pates and cured meat.
MT bought some jars of calamari in "American sauce", and suggest me to try one.
There are many kinds of canned seafood.
However, cheese is sold in packages of 500g or larger, and they don't label the aging time.
Christmas candies are already in display, very colorful.
At night, the city has a different appeal, under the lights. However, the lights were turned off maybe ~11pm.
At the end of the long ramble, we sat down for some tapa before I took the tram back.
Out of these 4, I like the roasted pepper the most (none spicy. I was told they usually put a single spicy one in the mix.), and the calamari the next.
Took the tram back about midnight. Realized that I forgot my toothbrush in Ireland. Had to walk 10 minutes (one way) to a store to buy one. Not a convenient location.
11/18, Friday. Heading to City of Arts and Sciences, hoping for less crowd on a weekday.
Spent most of the day at Oceanografic (€35.2 combined with an IMAX movie). The largest in Europe.
Chilly and wet today (I actually used my umbrella briefly).
Saw the dolphin show twice, feeding of the seals.
The giant aviary is quite nice.
Most exhibits are indoors.
My favorite is the jelly fish area. Many tanks of jelly fish of different colors and sizes. Floating aimlessly. All absolutely mezmerizing.
My second is the mediterranean exhibit. Not many people here, so you can sit without being disturbed, admiring the endless colorful fishes lining along the walls on all sides.
My 3rd is the tunnel through the large tank with shark, turtle, and rays. Crowded here.
The most prized animal here is the beluga mom and pub. They have their own tank. Looks quite lonely.
I picked the 6pm show of Blue Planet to continue my ocean theme of the day. I enjoyed the movie.
There are 7-8 shows per day, 5-6 movies to choose from.
The walk from the acquarium to Hemisfèric is pretty.
To the right is the Long rectangular reflecting pool along the science museum.
To the left is Umbracle - a long garden with arches above and parking lot beneath.
When I finished the movie, the night fell, lights were on. The architecture here took on a glamorous shine.
Walked back over the bridge, with the opera house and the IMAX theatre, both glimmering over the water.
Very photogenic, futuristic.
On my way home, stopped at Mercadona for grocery. Food is so cheap here.
I bought 2 butter croissants (c35 each), 2 bags of salad, 1 bag of fava bean, a jar of kefir, a pack of salami, a pack of pate, chocolate and a bottle of wine. All for ~€12.
I ate a croissant as soon as I left the store. Pretty good and flaky.
When I got back to the residencial hall, I asked the front desk for a bottle openner. I was told that alcohol is prohibited in the residence hall. Probably a good idea. Thankfully, they didn't confiscate my bottle. It took some effort to take the cork out with a small knife MT gave me yesterday to cut oranges.
11/19. Saturday. 17C. Windy.
Took bus 24/25 from Porta de la Mar to Albufera, a nature park south of Valencia, over a wetland, a salty lagoon, with many birds.
A small but nice visitor center, staffed. A viewing tower, seems no one climbed up except me.
The blind is the draw here. Very large and comfortable. Saw flamingos!
I walked about 1 stop north of the visitor center to the boat launch of Pujol (marked as Mirado del Pujol on Google Map).
They wait for about 10 people to fill a boat. Not many people here.
There is a canal (Gola del Pujol Nou) to the east that connects the lagoon to the ocean shore.
It's a nice walk south of the canal, a proper trail.
Gradually I walked from soil and gravel to sand. Took off my shoes.
Need to be careful walking barefeet, because there are shells and rocks in the sand.
Passed a salty pond (marked as Llac de Pujol on Google Map) in the middle of sand and a few grass.
Didn't see birds here, nor many at the shore.
The beach is quite pretty, not stunning.
Took the same bus back (every half an hour) to downtown.
Mercado Colon (a shopping mall with modernistic steel frames) was in full swing when I walked in.
There was a tasting event showcasing regional products.
The highlight is la Lonja de la Seda (the medieval silk exchange, UNESCO listed). 14-15th century. Must see.
Lovely (albeit small) courtyard with orange trees, nice wooden ceilings.
The best is the main hall, very large, supported on elegant fluted columns.
The only drawback is the crowd.
The cathedral is not too interesting. Not many stainless glasses. Its belltower (Micalet €2) is worth the climb.
I counted 207 spiral steps to the platform where the bells are. Don't walk too fast, as you'd get dizzy.
The stairs get narrower towards the top, and they put a green/red light to signal one way traffic.
Fence all around, so safe.
Waiting for the sun to set. Great view, but crowded and chilly.
Plug your ears when the bells ring.
11/20, Sunday, my last day here. More museums.
First, Museum of Fine Arts north of the ring road. Free. I like paintings. Learned about many local painters. One I like is the 19th century Joaquín Sorolla Bastida.
Municipal Archive is well worth a short visit. Small, but free.
Medieval records and manuscripts in the beautiful Palacio Cervello.
It offers free guided tours. But my Spanish isn't good enough.
Fundacio Bancaixa €7, a very small exhbition on the top floor of the Bank, not worth the entrance fee.
They had banners of the last exhibition and the next all draped over the facade of the building. I didn't read them carefully, and thought I would see all 3.
University of Valencia former location is my 3rd favorite in Valencia.
Now, Culture Center La Nau. Free.
Beautiful plaza outside, nice builds (built in 1500s) and reading room.
2 old globes which you can see the 17th century maps of the earth and the sky.
National Museum of Ceramic and Decorative Arts is my second favorite of Valencia. Free on Sundays.
Housed in the beautiful rococo Palace of Marqués de Dos Aguas.
Other than sumptuous rooms, vases, plates and table-top decoratives, large tableaus hanging on the walls, it has a stage coach covered with gold ceramic, a large globe guarded by statuettes. Yes, all ceramic, all very pretty.
The plaza outside is also lovely.
Ran over to Quart Tower, but the guard wouldn't let me in. His cutoff time is 30 minute before closing. Another tower that's open to public is Torres de Serranos.
I enjoyed the Prehistory Museum, in a modern but non-descriptive building. It gave me ideas of where to visit in Valencia next time, like: Gaitanes Gorge (congost de los Gaitanes); Cova del Parpalló, Gandia; Cova Negra, Xàtiva; Cova del bolomor. Ever since I visited Newgrange in Ireland, I'm fascinated by megalithic cultures.
Briefly walked through Institut Valencia de Art Modern, next door. Another modern building.
On the way back, instead of getting off the metro where the university is, I got off at its last stop: Cabanyal Beach. I had thought of going there early mornings, but never made it. It's only about a mile away.
A wide boulevard lined with palm trees along the very wide beach.
Quite a lot of people here, but due to the size of the beach, didn't feel crowded.
There's a jetty extends more into the water, a group of beginner surfers was playing the small wave.
South of the jetty is the marina, full of boats and bars.
After sunset, I went home. Packing and researching for my next segment. MT and his wife came by to say goodbye. Returned his kettle, but kept his knife.
11/21, Monday.
Sunrise from my balcony. 9am bus to Gandia.
