2022.11.27-28 Cordoba

11/27, Sunday. It was chilling and dark. I was the only one waiting for the 7am bus. I wasn't sure that the bus schedule is up to date, and why it's so early. The bus did come, only a couple of minutes late, and about 3 people on board. I practically slept all the way back to Granada. Took the next ALSA bus to Córdoba (quite frequent). 106 m, 348 ft. On the way, I looked up what beer to try next, and found that Alhambra, Cruzcampo and San Miguel are the most popular in Spain.

The bus+train station in Cordoba is about 1 mile to downtown. It's a new concrete building, but nicely designed to showcase the Roman ruin found during the construction, in a sunken garden.

Checkin is at 2:30pm, rather late. Afterwards, I walked through the town to the 1st century Roman Bridge. On the way, checked out this cute little alley. There're many other narrow alleys. This one is decked out with little pots of flowers.

Passed Patio de los Naranjos (8:30-18:00), this became my favorite spot in the city, which I'd come over again and again. Orange trees laiden with fruits are common in Andalucia. But this courtyard next to the cathedral (old mosque) is the most lovely.

The Roman Bridge is very long, 16 thick arches over River Guadalquivir. It's pedestrian only now. Most of the current structure dated to 8th century Arab reconstruction. Many more restorations later, most recently in 2008, replacing the brick pavement with pink marble slabs, significantly altered the appearance. I walked to its south bank (more ugly modern buildings on this side), along the river and back on a motorway (Miraflores bridge 2003), and returned to the historical downtown. Quite some ducks in the shallow water. A couple of old, reconstructed water mills (not moving). In the evening, I went to the bridge again. It's lit. A nice place for a stroll.

11/28, Monday. Visited the mosque-cathedral right at 8. Between 8-9, admission is free. Quite a few queued up at the entrance, but it is so large, I soon was wandering around more or less alone. The Great Mosque was originally constructed in 785-787, when Córdoba was the capital of Al-Andalus. It was expanded many times since, noteably in the late 10th century, a new mihrab with interlacing multifoil arches under a decorative ribbed dome (see left most photo), and a minerat was added, maybe to celebrate the newly proclaimed caliphate of Al-Andalus. Converted to a cathedral in 1239. In the 16th century, a Renaissance nave and trancept were inserted in the center, and the minerat was converted to a bell tower. This is a must-see in town. Hundreds of columns with red-white brick double arches. A small exhibition inside shows some Roman building fragments.

Patio de los Naranjos is the courtyard of the Great Mosque. Trees were planted as early as early 9th century. But exact species is unknown. In the mideval time, these were palm trees.

Plaza de la Corredera is a lovely 17th century town square, a bit of walk from the main drag. Old city hall and city jail is here.

Visited a few more old churches, all with Moorish flavors. This one is Santa Marina. San Miguel, San Pablo are also nice. A few houses are open as museums, like Palacio Viana, the synagogue. Walked to Merced garden and Palacio de la Merced (18th century building on a 13th century convent) with a colorful cloister, now the provincial govenment building. These are all on the outskirt of the historical downtown, but walkable.

A lot of walking. After a rest in the hotel, I took a book to Patio de los Naranjos to while away the rest of the afternoon. Then walked to the Roman bridge again before retiring for the day.

11/29, Tuesday. Went to Alcázar. They let me in before the official openning (8:30am). Home to Christian kings whenever they come to visit. Worth noting, here is where Ferdinand and Isabella welcomed Christopher Columbus who explained his plans to find a westbound sea route to India. The garden here is advertised everywhere, especially for the light show at night. A few long reflection pools with fountains. Manicured topiary trees, rose bushes. No Muqarnas ceiling, or much of elaborate plasters. Many large plastic installations, which I think looks tacky (at least during the day). It's like a small piece of Generrife of Alhambre. For the cheap €5.81 price, it's a very pleasant garden. Especially this early, I was the only person walking around.

A short visit to the old baños (underground) just north of the Alcazar (same ticket).

Checked out, went to wait for Maria Teresa at the taxi stand in front of the bus stations. My 2nd BlaBlaCar ride, this time to Carmona. Her 10am departure fit my schedule the best.

2022.11.26 Alpujarras - Sierra Nevada

11/26, took the 10am bus to Alpujarras at the foot of Sierra Nevada. It stops in every town along the road, so took 2+ hours. I got off at Bubión at 1350m (~4430') in the valley of Río Poqueira.

I managed to book a hotel room on a wrong date! Went to that hotel, and they wouldn't change the date. So, walked around, and settled down in Hostal Rural Las Terrazas de la Alpujarra. The gentleman there showed me a room for €35. He was very laid back. I liked him and the large terrace. Took the room. Came out with water and some crackers. He was showing 2 girls some hiking trails. Then he said they should take some apples from his own yard. I took a photocopy of the same trail, and 2 blemished apples and went to look for the trail. Never saw those girls again.

My trail started just right (east) side of the road. I followed it (don't see anyone else) for a bit, and then it reaches some road. I had Gaia Map loaded for the vicinity, so I know where I was. Stashed the photocopy in my pack (no use). Followed the road above Capileira all the way to the bridge in La Cebadilla. See the photo above for the town of Capileira (just 1Km north, ~300m higher), and the snow cladded peaks up. However, the higher I was, I actually don't see the snowy mountains anymore. La Cebadilla seems entired abandonned. Grafitti here and there. This church building is the best leftover, windows already broken. Crossed the concrete bridge here (maybe there was a hydro facility before), to the west side of Rio Poqueira. Saw a small group of people here going the opposite direction.

The west side of the valley has an obvious trail, even marked with yellow and white bands. A69. Along the way, saw quite a few abandonned old farm houses. Met 2 solo hikers on this side, one girl, one guy, both fairly young.

The trail crosses another (smaller) bridge back to Capileira.

A cute town, maybe slightly bigger than Bubión. Seems more tourists here to me. It was about 5pm, quite some people out to wait for sunset at various view points.

I walked back to Bubion following the setting sun. Saw one guy with a herd of goats. No highland pigs. A different valley east of here, Teverez is the home of jamon serano. One of the trails here can connect to Teverez.

In the busy season, there's a microbus that can take you to a higher refugio, where you can hike to peaks of Mulhacén and Veleta.

Ate my dinner at the terrace, but it was getting cold quickly after the sunset. I went to bed early. Tomorrow, my bus is at 7am. I was feeling much better after the excercise today.

2022.11.23-25 Granada

11/23. Granada (738 m, 2421 ft).

The Granada bus station is far from the city center. Almost 2 miles north of my hotel, which I promised to arrive before 9pm. All new developments. Half way in, it started to look nice, lots of lights and people. The guy at the front desk gave me a map, and drew on it how to get to Alhambra, where are tapa spots and different miradors.

~9pm, I walked to Paseo de los Tristes (the front desk guy's favorite spot in the city), under the shade of the Alhambra on the other side of the Darro River. It has already wound down. Maybe because this is winter, all the restaurants were closed or closing. Still pretty, still quite some tourists.

Bought some food and a bottle of wine since I'd stay put for 3 nights. Took the bottle to the front desk to open. They lend me a proper opener. Another guest came down for the same request. In the end, I didn't like this wine.

The shower here has 5 spa nozzles. Almost need an instruction how to operate. At least the hot water made me feel better. I had a mild headache and probably a fever. Took my Covid antigen test: positive!

11/24, Thanksgiving. Alhambra, the highlight of this trip.

I purchased a general entrance ticket (includes all sights) at its official website (€14) before I left Seattle. I picked 9am. I should have picked the very first entrance to Nasrid Palace at 8:30. All other entries are not timed. From my hotel, it's a short (uphill) walk. I wasn't allowed in until 9 sharp. They scan your passport. In order to take photos without too many tourists, I had to wait a lot. But soon I realized that the next group had arrived. At least the early morning batches are smaller. Later on, I saw long lines at the check point.

The complex started in 13th century, mostly built in 14-15th centuries, by Nasrid dynasty, last Islamic rulers in Iberic Peninsular (see Emirate of Granada. In fact Granada didn't start to prosper until 11th century after the collapse of Caliphate of Córdoba). Mohammed I ibn Nasr aligned Granada with Ferdinand III of Castile in 1246, paying tribute (parias) to Castilian kings, thus Granada remained a state for the next 250 years (the longest Muslin reign in Iberia) despite of minor skirmishes), paying gold and occasionally military assistance to Castile.

This palace is stunning, surpassed my already high expectation. This is a must see, a treasure worth flying here just for it alone. Still being restored. The garden behind the palace was closed.

The intricate plasters on the wall, archways, Muqarnas ceilings and wood carvings everywhere. Fountains and reflection pools everywhere. The Court of the Lions is an exquisit gem, merits its own wiki page. Ropes restricted tourist to the center of the patio where the lions are. Little fountains at its four sides.

A long and pleasant walk, by more fountains, pools and flowers to Generalife. Along the way, tall manicured trees provide shade.

After the palace, 2 more checkpoints at Alcazaba, and the garden. No check at Generalife or Carlos V. Alhambra became the Royal Court of Ferdinand and Isabella after Granada War, and the palaces were partially altered. For example, the building of Carlos V is neoclassical, built in 16-17th century. Napoleon's troop (during Peninsular War) also destroyed part of the site.

The Alcazaba is more interesting to visit. A fortress to protect the palace. Great view of the Sierra mountains.

On 2 January 1492, the last Muslim ruler in Iberia, Emir Muhammad XII ("Boabdil"), surrendered to the Catholic Monarchs (Ferdinand II of Aragon and Isabella I of Castile). The terms of the surrender, Treaty of Granada, explicitly allowed the mudéjares to continue their faith and customs, and the Jews 3 years to convert or leave. However, on March 31, Alhambra Decree, forced all Jews in Spain to convert or be expelled within 4 months. By 1499, Cardinal Cisneros undertook a program of forced baptisms, which provoked Rebellion of the Alpujarras. In response, the crown of Castille rescinded Treaty of Granada, mandated Muslin to convert or exile. Thus caused the remaining Muslin elite to leave. The city started a long slowly decline.

After Alhambra, I walked to Sacromente and then Albaicin, 2 hilly neighborhoods north of Alhambra. Good view of Alhambra, but the light in the early afternoon is not good. Albaicin is a little more touristy. Most popular spot here is Mirador San Nicolás. I like the little alleys and stairs here. They all connect to each other. Very rarely I'd hit an end, and had to back out. There are patterns of little pebbles to add some friction.

Returned to hotel before venturing out again for sunset. I walked up to Mirador San Nicolás. A lot of people now. The next door, a mosque with a garden, also perfect for the same view, but I was too late. They don't let anyone in after 5:30pm. When I was here earlier, it was closed for siesta.

Walked back down to town. It was bustling now with shoppers and diners. Visited the cathedral. Went back to the hotel early. Looked for ticket for Guadix, because I saw that the city website advertises a guided tour at 10am on Fridays for its Alcazaba. Tomorrow is Friday. I made an online reservation.

11/25 Friday. Took my very first BlaBla ride, with Alicia to Guadix. There are many more departures on the BlaBlaCar app than the bus schedules, from very early (~6am) to midnight. These are drivers who have empty seat in their cars. The app shows the pickup and dropoff locations in respect to your prefered locations, and sort them, so it's very easy to select. Price is usually similar to the bus, sometimes cheaper some time more. All drivers (and later I learned that all riders too) have a rating. Alicia is rated 5 out of 5. The app is in Spanish. I used Google Translate to message the drivers. It worked out very well.
I wore face mask, and she put one on too. The main reason that I went with Alicia is that her meeting spot is much closer than the bus station. She teaches English in Guadix, but prefers to live in Granada and drive everyday for work. She lived in Cincinnati for 3 years. So we could have a real conversation in English. She said that I need to call the owner of the castle at Calahorra in order to see the inside.

Wind turbines along the road (was dark when I went along the drive 2 days ago).

Alicia dropped me off near the cathedral ~9am. I walked about. The cathedral is nice enough. The Roman theatre ruin outside is not much to see.

Of course no one came to open the gate at 10, even though I banged on the door, and there were workers inside. Many houses here look abandonned.

I walked to the city hall to inquire about this guided tour. The lady the sent me to the tourism office. There, I was informed that the tour is at 11am every Friday, and I need to register with them, instead of the city. But today, the tour is at 11:30 to accommodate a large group from Seville. The ladies heard that I came here only for the visit and my return bus is at 12:40, which means I could only participate half of the tour, they told me to file a reclamation, and demand my bus money back. I told them I don't want any money. I filed an incident report. They told me to come back at 11:30.

I went to buy the bus ticket, and back to the city square by 11:30. Seeing no group came, the lady at the tourism office took me to Alcazaba and talked about the inside. She hoped when the group finally arrives, we'll talk about the outside together. The Alcazaba startes its first wall in the 11th century. In 12th, 2nd wall was built. In 13th century, a few more towers were erected. But after the Arabs were chased out of Iberia, it fell into desrepair. At some point, it became a mid-school's football field.

This visit is certainly not worth the trouble, but it gave me lots of opportunities to speak Spanish.

Took the bus back to Granada. On the walk home bought some grocery from Mercadona, including an Alhambra beer, and some 100% jambon iberico. The beer is good. The ham is salty and marbled. Very tasty. This little plastic pack is over €7. A serrano ham with mixed breed (50% Iberico, 50% Durac) is half the price, but equally tasty, not as marbled.

Went up to Albaicin again, and then walked around the city. Visited the first city hall Palacio Madraza (1722-29, looks better than the current one). The ancient camel stall (1300-32), which I visited last night. The old silk market, now narrow streets full of cute shops.

After dinner, I went to Paseo Los Tristes again, this time just before 8pm. Should be prime dinner time. Still not as busy as downtown. At least I felt slightly better today, so had energy to read the city culture signages. For example, this broken bridge (Puerta Tableros, 11th century) was a military post by the guard of Alhambra, and also a place to fetch water.

11/26 Saturday. Leaving the city, heading to the snowy Sierra Nevada.

Update: in early Feb 2023, I received a letter from the city hall of Guadix informing me that website has corrected the incorrect information.