Xalapa is the capital of the state of Veracruz. At elevation 1417m, it's much cooler. Finally hot shower is a necessite, not AC.
12/25, Saturday. Christmas Day. My eye felt ok, still red.
Chilly in the morning. I moved to a better hotel in the city center.
Nicely decorated. Small footprint, built high. I left my luggage and then walked around the town.
The city feels very tranquil and authentic. It was Christmas day, most stores were closed. Families in parks, joggers along Los Lagos (more like a canal). Saw one boy learning to ride bicycle. Not too many vendors. Walked along Paseo Los Lagos. It's more like a canal. Quite pleasant. Walked to the end of Los Lagos (dam down to a narrow canal), and then to University of Veracruz, with a few walking paths (paved with seating areas). Then the round park Los Berros.
I could see Pico de Orizaba, over 18K', 3rd highest peak in North America (after McKinley, and Logan). Yes, snow-capped. Abandoned the walk to Cofre de Perote, a peak close by, which you can almost drive to. Over 13K'. The best place to see Orizaba and Cofre de Perote in downtown Xalapa is Juarez Park. Early morning and sunset is the best time. Sunset attracts a large crowd (including me) every day. There are also performances in the park. This evening, I got into a conversation with an old gentleman in my broken Spanish. He relished the time when he hiked up Cofre de Perote before the road was made for the cell towers, eons ago.
Visited the bus terminal Excelsior, which I'd take the next day. Ate some tacos next to the market (mostly closed because it was Xmas day).
12/26, Sunday, walked by Juarez Park on my way to Excelsior buses, to admir Pico de Orizaba and Perote.
Took the bus to Xico (passing Coatepec). My destination is Texolo falls. First, visited Parroquia de Santa María Magdalena, right next to the main plaza, as well as the small capilla on the left end of the town. A group of cyclists posed for photos at the plaza. These and I may be the only tourist this day.
From different spots of the small town, one can see either Pico de Orizaba or Cofre de Perote.
Walked to Cascada de Texolo. Maybe about 1.5 miles. Reasonably pleasant walk. A lot of small stores sell bottles of colored liquid, some sort of flavored coffee. They offer tastings, but I didn't try any. There's a federal electricity plant right on top of the waterfall, which is closed to the public. Right in front, a trail and stairs going down to the water, which is open. I found some plant looks like devil's club: needles covering the entire plant. Nice waterfall, rainbow. Other than the viewpoint at the end of the trail, it's possible to scramble a bit to the right to get to water.
On the way back, stopped at Coatepec, another "Pueblo Magico". A lot more people.
Maybe it was only Christmas time, one side of the main plaza is completely covered with canvas top, lined on both sides boutique stalls, a lot of shoppers. There was also an ice skate ring, a queue to enter. Bustling.
On my way walking back to C. Zaragoza (where the northbound bus is), checked out Casa de Cultura. It had a small exhibition of photography on color of birds.
Back in Xalapa (Revolution Park), still early. I took a bus to the archeology museum. Had some trouble locating the correct bus, but on the way back, it was easy. (Note, part of the city is a bit hilly. When you see two streets crossing on the map, they may not connect.) This museum is a must if you are in Xalapa, even scored a page in Altas Obscura. Initially I didn't like the modern, concrete building. Towards the end of the visit, I grew to enjoy it, especially on this warm afternoon. The openning in the concrete walls, allows enough light to pour through, and also provides a nice breeze. There're also a few enclosed court-yard with these "holed" walls.
Even though I was prepared to see many Olmec heads here (main reason for my visit), I was still (pleasantly) surprised at how many there are, and the good condition they are in.
Other than the giagantic heads, there're many objects, ordered by theme and era. A couple of large models of archeology sites. Very well laid out. Large groomed lawn outside, where you walk back. It's quite large. Some signs and videos have English. On the 2nd floor of the lobby, there's also a (maybe temporary) exhibit of modern collage and pottery. I stayed for almost a full 2 hours, and you can easily spend more time here.
I returned to my hotel tired and satisfied. Prepared for departure tomorrow morning.