Monday, December 20, 2021

2021.12.16-20 Campeche - Wintering in Mexico, part 9

12/15, Wednesday. Arrived at Campeche late. The ADO bus station is 2 miles south of the town. I took a taxi. 35 pesos. To late for a collectivo. Campeche the city is the capitol of Campeche the state - the smallest state in Mexico. The city center is UNESCO listed.

12/16, Thursday. Campeche malecon Visited malecón of Campeche. Being right on the coast, unfortunately, it's not noticeably cooler than Mérida. However, there is a nice cool breeze. The shore was very engineered with concrete bank, not so easy to get to the water. The historical center was surrounded by a rampart, now about half still survived. You can visit the 4 corners. The one I went to was closed for a private event. The center is rather small, easily walkable. Freshly painted houses, uniform is size. The busiest is calle 59, especially at night with lights hanging above.

Visited collectivo sites (to find how to get to Edzna), off the market (NW of the center). Bought some bread and fruit at the markets. Most are on Ave Gobernadores, including a 2nd class bus terminal. Combis for Candelaria 3/day: 5:50am, 12pm, 8:30pm, return 7:45am, 12pm, 3:45pm. 250peso RT. 981-103-6306/112-6031; a different company runs 6/day: 4am, 7:30, 9:30, 12:30, 2pm, 5pm. 981-170-5355/982-116-7972 WhatsApp. Combis for Sabancuy 3/day: 2pm, 4:30pm, ?, 982-107-0959/981-170-5355 WhatsApp. This photo is taken at SUR bus terminal (large AC buses), a bit further to walk.

Back in my Airbnb with AC on at 9am. Hiding there until sunset. Then, I walked out again. The large space (Parque de Las Banderas) next to (north of) the main plaza turned into a Christmas merryland. Huge Christmas tree flashing endless light patterns. Choochoo trains. Boom box. Of course, food and trinkets for sale. The cathedral is pretty from outside, quite plain inside. The city hall looks pretty, but it was closed for visitors (maybe temporarily).

12/17 Friday. Up early (before 6am). Walked along the shore west to Fort San Miguel. Malecón stopped after about 2Km, and the coast is occupied by private homes, so no more access to the waterfront. There is an access about 1Km west, where the fishermen moor their boats, and young people dressed in business suites came and buy fish for their restaurants or shops. It's a bit dirty here.

I reached the fort before 7am, still cool. A large moat surrounds the fort, with watch towers on the four corners. Of course it was closed at this hour. But I could walk around the fort. Not really has a view to the ocean. I found 2 joggers. But, by the time it was open, it would be too hot for me.

Walked back along the shore, still in the cool morning. More walkers and joggers now at the malecón. The purveyors of fish also arrived. No children yet. Lots of playgrounds with vibrant colors. Detoured to the zocalo before hiding in the AC room. The city hall was closed, no reason was given. The plaza was small, but pleasant. Still quiet at this hour. I only ventured out again at sunset.

12/18 Saturday. Maya ruin of Edznar
Cloudy. Combi station Calle Chihuahua & Nicaragua, east of the market. Every hour from 7am. It's a 15 min walk. I arrived before 7am, already 6 on board. There are multiple red and white mini-vans here. Some go to Merida. The combi left on time with 11 on board. Picked up 3 more on the way. Now it was full. 4 plastic stools, for extra passenger. Saw corn fields, first time on the peninsula.

Arrived at the ruin at 8am, when it just opened. It's rare that any tourist site is open this early. ballcourt I was the first tourist today. Edzná is rather small, but quite pretty, with Nahochná sitting high on a grand plaza, many steps above the main ground. No wonder it was called Gran Acrópolis. Nahochna is fenced off, no climbing. You can walk up any other structures. There's a nice long ball court.

Was picked up at 9:30 at the road junction by a combi from Laurel, I was sweating already. Clouds had dissipated. The driver put on a plastic stool for me. Later a couple with baby in arm got on, on 2 more stools. This minivan is in a better condition. AC in full blast, so was the audio.

I got off the van just out of the rampart. Back at my room at 10:30. Took a shower, ate. An hour later, I headed out to the 2nd class bus terminal, because I know there's a SUR bus at 14:30, but hoping to find a combi with an earlier departure. At one of the many combi stations east of the market, I was talked into a combi for Escarcega. 12:00 departure. I was given a receipt. But I was put on a bench. They waited for another 5 minutes to fill 2 more seats and we left. 50 peso. This van, the AC sings the loudest, but not cooling much.


Towards Ciudad del Carmen.

At 1pm, quite a few got off at Champoton. It stopped right in front of what's labeled as ADO station on Google map. Actually same bus terminal for all buses (SUR and ATS), also for the combis. It's right at the city center, very convenient. Pretty waterfront. Combi to Ciudad Del Carmen is 110 pesons. An ATS bus just pulled in. It's more expensive, but more comfortable. I got on the bus, as it was just about to leave. I bought a ticket to Isla Aguada for 105 pesos. Half empty. I picked a seat by the right window.

Most of the drive is along the coast. Water is pretty. Lots of pelicans. Once in a seldom while, a palapa or houses. 2:10pm, at Sabancuy, the bus stops at the main square. This lady sculpture welcomes you, a bit scary. I hope it's a Christmas only decor. A controller got on bus and checked everyone's ticket. There's a SUR bus heading to Ciudad del carmen at the same time.

At Isla Aguada, lots of traffic going to the toll bridge. The bus was in not moving much, so I got off before the terminal. I dragged my bags towards the waterfront, not really know where to. Right at the intersection before the waterfront, a guy approached me with a name card, soliciting a tour. He said for 1 person, it's MXN4000. Then a young lady asked me to join another 7 people for 250 pesos. So I went with her. The captain put my suitcase at the restaurant. He said that the tour is 3 hours, and there's time to swim, in case I wanted to change. It was 3:30 now. I got on his boat, then a family of 4 came with a toddler. Then we drove to Freedom Shore, called another family of 3. Waited awhile, until they came out.
dolphins Now the tour started. The main objective is to see the dolphins. They are here year-round. They were hanging out close to the shore. We saw some just a few minutes into the huge Laguna de Términos. The next half an hour is just following them, hoping for a better photo. Next, we drove by some tiny islands with a lot of birds. All these islands are flat and small.
Last, drove to the west side of the bridge, anchored on an island that's marked as Isla de Pajaros on Google map (no birds here). Some swam. I hid under the ever moving shade of one lone palapa. Picked some shells. The beach here is full of shells, too tough for my barefeet. Relaxing. The boat headed back as the sun was setting. Full moon.

Retrieved my luggage at the restaurant. Walked to the combi terminal. A few folks were waiting already. At 6:05pm we drove off to Ciudad del Carmen. I got off before downtown, where my AirBnb is, close to Ado terminal.

12/19, Sunday, Ciudad del Carmen.
I didn't plan to visit this town, only here because of the dolphin tour at Isla Aguada. So, I didn't stay in downtown, rather closer to the bus terminals. I couldn't find anything interesting to visit here. Walked to downtown, the main plaza and the malecon. Also concrete, no beach. Overall, the town is a bit ugly. There's another malecon with a beach on the north side of town, which I didn't go. Got caught in a storm. The rain poured buckets, in 10 minutes, the streets were flooded like rivers. Everyone was calling taxi. Took sometime for me to get on one.

12/20, Monday. Cloudy. I took off middle of the day. Going to another state. Driving on the bridge, Puente El Zacatel, I could see that Ciudad del Carmen is a large port. Saw some big ships.
I would be on the road all day. Taking a 9 hour bus ride to San Andres Tuxtlas in Veracruz.