I've been eyeing 7FJ + Maude ever since I tried to climb them
4 years ago.
Due to weather, we only climbed Maude.
My
last attemp on 7FJ was a failure.
It's larch season again, and weather forecast looked perfect.
A trip report of last weekend mentioned 2 feet of snow, which made me nervous.
Multiple people in this hiking/climb Discord group also wanted to try, but they don't want to camp.
Only A.B. agreed with me to go overnight. However, took me some effort to convince him to go clock-wise, instead of camping at Upper Ice Lake.
He also informed me that according to some Saterllite images, snow is free below 8200' as of Wednesday.
So, 2 of us made a go.
10/7, Saturday. Waited for A.B. at 4:30am (no need to be this early). He was 10 min late.
Got to the TH ~8am, already a lot of cars along the road. Some were cooking their breakfast in their converted cars.
We had to park 1/4 mile out. Ate more food. A.B. is slow getting ready.
His pack is much heavier than mine.
I convinced him to leave behind his chair and sandals, also less water.
We started hiking ~8:20am.
Phelps Creek trail is easy, more or less flat: 3.5 miles gaining 750'.
Right after a creek crossing (go lower for easier crossing), onto Leroy Basin trail.
Now it gets steep; 1.5 miles gaining 2000'.
Arrived at Leroy Basin shortly after 11. Took some time to look for water source.
The creek bed where I camped by last time was dry.
It turns out just a bit downhill, there was water.
Instead of camping in the open on the grass, we found durable old tent sites for our camp.
However, views were obstructed by trees.
But steps away from open, and close to the creek.
There were already quite a few tents here, and more to come.
We headed out again before noon, with a reduced pack.
Color is amazing this weekend.
The trail is easy to follow.
After a dry creek bed, follow an obvious trail on the left up along the creek bed.
It gets steep, better view as you go higher. Lots of huckleberry bushes, no berries.
Glacier Peak is most prominent.
Rainier is so hazy that it doesn't show on my phone.
Can only see Baker only near the top.
The trail turns left when you reach a flat grassy area. In wetter years, you can camp here.
There, it's better to continue up. Once you reach another flat-ish, but more rocky, turn left.
Now, all rocks, and they get a bit loose and steep. No definite track to follow, or too many tracks.
Keep left as you go up. The highest finger is the left most and behind.
I'm surprised and also relieved to find that we encountered almost no snow.
What a week of sunshine can do, even in October.
Put on helmets. Occasionally seeing climbers coming down.
We met B and S (from the same Discor group) on their way down, maybe ~2pm.
Everyone is in a helmet, hard to tell who's who. I'd never met B before, still don't know what he looks like.
Asked if they were continuing to Maude. Answer is no
Summit view is awesome. So many peaks. I even signed the registry. First ever I have signed.
We took a break, not cold. No hurry: no need to drive back today.
A.B. arrived earlier. So he headed down a couple of steps ahead of me. I reached ~2:50pm, left ~3:20pm.
Same way going down the very top, then, we took slightly different route back (more lower, and more west).
Got back to camp ~5:30pm.
Later, heard that D.R. was looking for us ~5pm, on his day run of the area (he also climbed Icebox).
Ate my sandwich out in the open looking at the sunset, and prepared cold soak of oatmeal for tomorrow.
Not enough clouds to make a pretty sunset. Good stars at night. Not cold. I was using my quilt.
Total today: 5500' gain, 3000' loss, ~7 miles.
10/8, Sunday. Up at 5:30, since we decided to head out at 6:30am, a long day ahead of us.
Also it's expected to be another warm day (70°F in the city). Earlier is better.
The tent is wet. Tried my best to shake off the condensation.
A.B. is slow getting ready. He had to cook coffee.
We didn't leave until ~6:45.
On to the same Carne High Route.
At the junction to 7FG, met 2 guys confused about the trail.
Ensured them that they were correct toward 7FJ.
We continued.
We walked pass a few dry creek beds, one is a deep ditch that can not be crossed easily wherever you wish.
The High Route trail is better than I thought.
Only at one spot, I followed the "trail" on the map, struggled over a boulder, and went too high.
A.B. stayed below, better track.
Sun rose, nice colors.
Took a break at Freezer Pass (9am). It's a short scramble to get up here.
A.B. is slower today, turns out that he didn't eat breakfast.
Great view of Upper Ice Lake and our objective of today: Maude. Stashed our backpacks here behind a boulder.
When I was here last time, we couldn't see anything! And it was COLD. We plunged down Freezer Pass with crampons and ice axe.
Now, warm and sunny, what a difference!
Quite a few others here.
Met the young Asian couple we overtook yesterday on our way to Leroy Basin.
Inquired about Maude: easy track to follow.
This turns out to be true. Much easier than 7FJ.
The steep parts are getting down Freezer Pass to a flat basin (with a lot of rocks around), and the last 200' of getting up to the ridge.
A few tents at the base, and 2 more near the lake, lower.
The flat ridge has snow on its north side. More wind here.
Views, and views.
The very top ridge, the trail goes along the north side, so was in snow. But not enough to cause trouble. It's also steeper.
From Freezer Pass it's 1:50 hr to reach Maud, 50 minutes to come back.
Long break at the summit. Somehow A.B. is slower today.
A lot of climbers came and went.
No one, but us, bothered to walked further 20m to a lower ledge, where you can see both Ice Lakes, and a glacial green pond.
Going down offers better view. More relaxing too.
Waited at Freezer Pass, eating my 2nd lunch.
After A.B. arrived, we saw a group of ~a dozen ravens circle around the ridge.
I headed down a few minutes ahead of A.B. at ~1:10pm.
Coming down Freezer Pass, I took a wrong route, going too low.
Instead of correcting my trajectory right away, I was hoping to connect to the trail later, according to my Gaia map.
Should have loaded Caltopo, it's better marked.
It turns out what I was looking doesn't exist.
That wasted quite some time. For a few minutes, I even put my helmet on (at the spot I marked X on the image), for fear of falling.
I ended up behind A.B., but he never waited. Next time I saw him was at his car!
This really surprised me.
Carne High Route is mostly easy to follow. Bright colors all around.
Once I'm on the correct trail, it was fast going. However, it's long.
The only other place that's a bit confusing is coming down to Box Creek headwater.
I didn't get lost here. A little bit of scrambly.
Right below the scramble is a meadow, but no water.
Further on the trail, I encountered a creek (maybe still Box Creek).
Filled water (the only water source is in this area).
I even took an extra litre of water for A.B., just in case. He drinks a lot.
More and more clouds.
The Carne High Route goes over the eastern ridge of Carner, and detour around to its southern flank.
At the junction on the ridge, saw a backpack.
I mistook it for A.B.'s and left mine next to it, and then walked up to the summit of Carne, which is only 1/4 mile easy walking.
Even though I was pretty tired by not, it only took 10 minutes.
I thought I would run into A.B. there.
Saw 3 people Asians.
Back at my backpack, filtered the extra liter into my water bottle.
I don't need 1L. 2 climbers walked by, and I asked if they want some water.
Filter the half liter for one of them into his water bottle.
They just came back from South Spectable Butte -- well, a peak I probably should attempt in the future.
Not much sun left, as I breezed down the trail.
Saw 2 guys under the meadow below Carne, sitting in their chairs watching sunset.
By the time I reached the TH, it was quite dark.
I walked the road to the car, and met A.B. driving towards me.
He said he arrived maybe only 20 minutes earlier.
Total today: about 5000' gain, 7500' loss. ~11 miles.
I quickly changed my shirt and shoes and we drove off.
On the way, I realized that I couldn't find my phone.
Felt under my seat in the dark, nothing.
We stopped the car, and used flash light, looking all over the inside and the trunk. Emptied my bag and put things back in. Nothing.
Poor A.B. drove back to the TH on the horrible road, and we searched the road with headlamps. Still nothing.
Gave up and drove home.
On the drive home, we made one stop to fill up gas.
A.B. checked his phone and informed me that there was a 4.3 earth quake today in Seattle.
Without my phone, I couldn't even open the door of my building.
I had to ask A.B. to call the emergency phone number taped outside of the office.
It was already midnight. Woke some poor guy up.
As I explained my situation, the guy just buzzed me in, without me finishing my story. He probably just wanted to go back to sleep.
10/9, Monday. Got an email from A.B. informed me that he found my phone in the car.
I have daily alarm set. He said even with the alarm going off, it took him many minutes to locate the phone.
I need to tape some reflexive strips on the black phone case!
10/10, Tuesday. Pouring rain. I limped to A.B.'s office building to pick up my phone.
10/11, Wedesday. My legs are still sore.
10/29, Sunday. 19 of us met at the TH to Gothic Basin.
I was in the car of B.K., because his car was coming back without dinner.
It has been cold (probably 0°C last night), and I packed an extra down jacket, a thermo bottle of hotwater, microspikes and helmet.
Spikes turned out to be useful, but only on trail, and only for a short section just below the basin.
I used them only on the way in, later on the way out, it was warmer and no longer all icy.
Frozen dirt and frozen water is very pretty, water running under ice is also cute.
Gothic Basin is a winter wonderland now. Snow is powdery. Spikes are useless.
Pass this pond first (where folks usually camp here in summer).
Soon after, is Foggy Lake. It is more beautiful than in summer.
By the time I arrived at the lake, I was way behind the 5 people ahead.
I was more or less with Cass and B.K., both of them followed me heading to Gothic Peak.
I don't see the rest of the group until back to car.
Due to the snow condition, our goal this time doesn't include Del Campo.
Saw all the backpacks at the bottom of the summit scramble.
I dropped mine too, and climbed to the summit.
The view is incredible. More impressive than in summer (see my last summer's trip report).
The 5 in my group were waiting for me at the summit.
Warm, no wind. Even I stayed for 25 minutes.
Got down to my pack so I can drink and eat lunch.
Then, I headed down first, since I'm the slowest.
10/22, Sunday. The Scottish musical 
Earlier today, in the afternoon. 3pm, at the Center House's Black Box theater, I watched a few 
10/20, Friday. 7pm 
