Monday, September 02, 2024

2024.8.31-9.2 Constance Pass and Beyond (Olympic NP + Buckhorn Wilderness)

Labor Day weekend, 2 nights of camping by Boulder Shelter, day hiked from there. The temperature was in the 80°Fs, not pleasant.

8/31, Saturday. Up at 6am, caught the 7:10am ferry. Already quite a few boats out. Peaceful. Started hiking ~9:30am, from Upper Dungeness River TH.

1 mile in, turn left to cross the first log bridge. (Continue straight would be going to Royal Lake, signed.) Many people camped here. I've camped here twice before. 35 minutes later, cross the 2nd log bridge. Both are quite substantial, with railing and ramps. The trail is mostly flat, following Dungeness River. Nice sound and nice soft trail (not dusty). Shade. 15 minutes after the 2nd bridge, we reached Camp Hardy.

From now on, we started to gain elevation. Crossed a few creeks. Chatted with 2 people (father and son?) who were leaving and had big packs. They camped at Home Lake. I was informed that mosquito was not an issue at all. They had never heard of Charlia Lakes. Nor had I just a week ago.

Settled near Boulder Shelter: ~6 miles, 2400' from TH. Already people camping around the shelter and 2 tents out in the messy-looking meadow. This is not surprising, being at the junction of multiple trails. My partner found a good site close to the creek and trail, but mostly out of view. Pitched the tent, ate. It was getting warm.

~1:30pm, we headed out to Charlia Lakes in increasing heat. Good trail, just not signed, not marked on official maps. At the junction, you'd see a sign for "Home Lake". Take the trail to the left, uphill. There's a nice camp next to a pond, maybe earlier in the season. It looks too small for good water. It's about 600' gain from Boulder Shelter. On the way, there's a good huckleberry patch. Took a break in the shade. From here and up, shade is hard to come by, getting above treeline. Umbrella is handy.

Saw many harebell on the sun drenched slopes. Zigzag towards the saddle, all the way, pretty good track. Another ~700' up from the pond.

The saddle itself offers no view of the Charlia Lakes, it's too flat and wide. You can see the Puget Sound. Walk a bit lower east, or higher to the hills on either side, then you can see the Upper Charlia Lake. I walked up towards Cloudy Peak to my right. Hit a broad saddle, where I can see both Charlia Lakes and a pond. Better view of Puget Sound and the surrounding peaks. Took a break hiding in the few clumps of pines, then going back to camp. Saw 2 groups of 2 going down to Charlia Lakes to camp. Boulder Shelter to the saddle of Charlia Lakes is ~1.4 miles, 1300'.

Brilliant stars.

9/1, Sunday. It's another warm day. Needed to avoid afternoon heat. We headed out towards Constance Pass ~7:30am.

Sun just rose, nice color of the hills opposite of the valley. Home Lake trail is mostly flat. After the initial uphill, it actually goes down for almost 500'. At the boulder area, I paid attention to tracks going up towards Warrior Peaks, but found nothing obvious. Afterwards, cross the valley floor over boulders into trees again. Gaining ~800' to Home Lake. 9:20am. It's a nice looking lake, but rather small. Some leftover flowers, especially yarrow and fireweed. Some nice camping sites. Saw 3 guys in 2 spots. My partner walked to the north end where fireweed was most abundant, and informed me that the water looks dirty with a greesy film on top. Had a snack break next to the first campsite, before going up towards Constance Pass.

The trail going up to Constance Pass zigzags up a flowery slope. A running creek feeds the lake below. Lots of fireweed by the creek. This photo was taken on the way back when the lake was entirely lit in the sun. About 0.5 mile 500' up from Home Lake. The pass is low (5600'), offers view to Puget Sound and many peaks to the south. But better views await higher.

Follow the trail west (right) on the ridge (now Constance Pass trail) for 3/4 miles, gaining 700'. Before the trail goes down, detour right CX a short distance to a gentle rocky summit. ~6550'. Excellent view from here, and all along the ridge. Too bad, it was a bit hazy this weekend, so the view to Puget Sound wasn't clear. Also unable to sit here: a nest of flying ants occupied the highest rock. We picked some short pines a bit lower, to hide in the shade and savour the expansive view and the silence. Didn't meet anyone between Home Lake and here. Only on the way down, met ~5 coming up this way. This camp site looks enticing.

2100' and 4.5 miles from camp. Going back to Boulder Shelter is another 480' gain.
I also continued Constance Pass Trail towards Sunnybrook Meadow, because I like the name. I only went as far as I could see the meadow area (not far: don't want to loose all the elevation). Looks nice from above. Maybe better earlier for flowers. But according to this trail report: Sunnybrook Meadows has a small tarn that was the only water source beyond the four streams and it was chock full of tadpoles.

Back to camp, hid in the shade to while away the warm afternoon. Cooked dinner ~4:30pm!!!

A little after 5pm, well rested, I headed out towards Buckhorn Mountain, hoping to catch sunset. I hiked it 2019 once, and loved it. It was quite warm when I hiked to Marmot Pass. The trail is on the western slope, so in the sun once above tree line. I made a mistake not bringing my umbrella. Trail is nice long zigzags, fairly mellow. Reached Marmot Pass (1000' up, 1.8 miles) before 6pm. At 6000', you can see Puget Sound, and Big Quicene Valley. Saw a couple sitting here, waiting for sunset?

There are boot tracks going up both sides of the pass along the ridge. I took left (north) for Buckhorn Mt. The view gets increasingly better. Someone pitched a tent on the top of the south side. The initial trail was steep-ish. Later on, it's more gentle. There's now a breeze. I reached the false summit ~6:30pm. Great view all around. Saw another lonely tent on the ridge north towards Buckhorn Pass.

Now headed down a little, cross a broad saddle, and scramble up to Buckhorn Mt. The summit is behind this big rock. The scramble is not difficult, quite short. At almost 7000', the view is superb. Can even see Canada. Too bad, this weekend it's a bit hazy.

I headed down to the gentle false summit to wait for sunset. On the way, discovered a few Olympic Bellflower amidst the rocks. Ate and drink, put an extra shirt on. The light is good. In the end, I decided to hike down. Didn't like to hike in the dark by myself.

The couple at Marmot Pass disappeared, saw a guy walking back east below the pass. Once below Marmot Pass, there was not more breeze, but now the temperature was pleasant. It was smooth sailing. Reached the camp ~8:30pm. It was dark, but still enought twilight to wash up in the creek before bed.

9/2, Labor Day. Anticipating crowd at the ferry, hiked out early. Even with a couple of snack/water breaks, and stopped at Camp Hardy (some annoying dogs barked at me nonstop), we were back at the car ~9:45, and drove out before 10am. Filled gass. Caught the 12:45 ferry. Pretty smooth.

I'm very content to have explored the Dungeness River valley all the way. Anything south of Boulder Shelter is new to me. The small peak west of Constance Pass and Buckhorn Mountain are my favorites.