Took a train to Jerez de la Frontera, the capital of Sherry (anglicisation of Xérès/Jerez) - the first official DOP in Spain.
According to Wikipedia, after Francis Drake sacked Cadiz in 1587, he brought back 2,900 barrels of sherry that had been waiting to be loaded aboard Spanish ships. This helped popularize sherry in the British Isles.
The most well-known brand is Tío Pepe, whose statue stands near the Alcazar.
Its bodega and many others offer wine tasting tours.
The train station at Jerez is nice looking: Moorish Revival (Neo-Mudéjar) style.
There're ticket agents. Only 1 line, north to Seville, south the Cadiz.
The bus station next door has multiple agencies, but all window were closed.
I took photos of the schedules posted here and there.
There's an airport close by, with frequent bus connection.
After I checked in to my hotel (for 2 nights), the next guest was told that all rooms were sold. Not sure if there's something going on, or just because it's a Saturday.
Walked around.
The cathedral and the Alcazar are on a small hill.
Almost no one was out.
It's usually very hot here, so most establishments close for the entire afternoon, until maybe 7pm.
The cathedral's main facade looks quite impressive.
The pedestrain walk on Calle Larga is indeed wide, nice looking.
12/2 Friday. RT train to Cádiz. €8.6. Many stops. On the way, it passes a large marshy area.
Right out of the train station, it was green with palm trees.
Feels like seaside, even though I couldn't see water. More lively than Jeréz.
It's a short walk to the old city center.
Visited the Roman Theatre (free). It's small, but well made. As usual, over-reconstructed.
The Baroque cathedral (18th century, €6), a block from the old cathedral (17th century, free), does have more to see.
Huge columns, tall ceilings (with large screens hung underneath, not sure for what purpose, at the moment catching dry leaves).
The wood carving of the choir, the crypt with the incorrigible body of virgin marter Sta Victoria and tombs of bishops and compose Manuel de Falla and playwright José María Pemán.
Being just one block from the waterfront, even though it's not high, the view is lovely. The mediterranian is very blue.
The plaza in front of the cathedral is quite nice.
A row of vendors in booths covered by white felt-like top resembling snow.
Museo de las Cortes de Cadiz is free, small, dedicated to the congregation of Cortes 1810-12.
Next door, church of Oratorio de San Felipe Neri, is where the very first Spanish Constitution was signed (1812). €4.
Its exterior wall was decorated with many conmemorations.
The Cadiz constitution affirmed separation of powers, freedom of the press, free enterprise, universal male suffrage, abolished feudal privileges (fueros), and established a constitutional monarchy with a parliamentary system.
It extended political rights to natives (non-slaves) in Spanish territory.
Cadiz was chosen as the congregation of Cortes because of Napolean's rule over most of Iberic peninsular, and this is the major port (fortified) for merchants go to and from the colonies.
Out of 307 delegates, 37 were born overseas.
Granting rights to "citizens" outside of Spain allowed more voting power for colonial interests.
Unfortunately it is short lived.
Only 2 years later, it was abrogated by King Ferdinand VII.
However, this constitution was reinstated a couple of times, and served as a model for subsequent constitutions in Spain and in Spanish America.
Visited the fort (Castillo de Santa Catalina. Free)
It's quite simple. Good view from its not-very-tall walls.
The beach is wide, right by the old town.
There's a causeway to walk to the currently-closed Castillo de San Sebastian.
Very pleasant walk (bring umbrella).
Took the same train back. A ticket agent got onboard and told me that I was on the wrong train. So had to get off at the next station and wait for the next train.
On the way from the train station to the hotel, I detoured to Mercadona for grocery, also checking out different sherry. Prices vary wildly. Found a different store that sells small bottles of Tio Pepe. Bought one. At the hotel, I asked the front desk for an opener. The guy insists that it should be cold, and put my bottle in its fridge, and told me to come back later.
I couldn't find a bus to Monastario Cartuja de Santa María (15-17th century), so I just walked there.
It's NOT a pleasant walk: the country roads have no side walks, but ditches on both sides.
In 1810, Napolean troops took it over as barracks, damaged a significant portion of the complex. I couldn't tell, because of the limit access to public. When I walked in, I saw nobody. The facade of the monastery looks quite impressive. A feel of serenity. A wooden sign at the door said:
-
Tues-Sat: 7h15 maitines, laudes; 8h15 misa; 17h45 visperas
Sunday: 17h visperas; 17h30 misa
Monday: 17h30 misa
Back at the hotel, picked up my sherry from the hotel fridge.
It turns out, it's a screw-top. That's convenient.
The front desk gentleman also brought me a proper wine glass.
I poured to the glass, and gave it to him. He took it reluctantly.
Ate my dinner with Tio Pepe. I'm not sure I like sherry.
Tastes like dry white wine, without the fruity fragrance, but smells of distilled spirit.
The alcohol content is actually very low for a fortified wine, about 15%.
I screwed the top back on, and went out into the town center. Seems everyone from far and wide came to see the Christmas lights. All ages, eating some fried stick coated in powdered sugar. Many streets were fitted with colorful lights, each street is different. A giant cone wrapped with lights at the junction of Calle Larga and Plaza de Arenal. Very festival.
12/3 Saturday. Woke up at 9:00. Packed.
Went to San Domingo. The sign at the door says open 10-13:45 on weekends. I waited till 10:10. No sign of anyone.
Went to Alcazar. Ok for €5.
It dates to 11th century, but nothing looked that old.
The entrance leads to a pink walled palace, built in the 17th century.
On its second floor, an 19th century municipal pharmacy
An old mosque, but no decorations survived.
You can walk up to 2 towers. Not very tall.
A nice but very small garden.
More ruins maybe dated to Roman era.
Gigantic mill for pressing olive oil.
Went back to San Domingo to see the 14th century gothic cloister. Free.
Rushed back to hotel, and checked out.
Other hightlights of Jeréz are
- the motorcycle race track, home of the MotoGP Motocycle Grand Prix
- home of Carthusian breed of horses. There're a number of equestrian schools and contests .
Bus to Ronda (in the province of Málaga) runs only once a day. Saturday it's at 11:45am, as posted on one of the many posters by the one of the windows (no one ever man any of the windows). This schedule doesn't show on the large display of departure/arrival. I asked around just to make sure. The bus didn't arrive until 11:56 (from Cadiz). None of other passengers seemed to be concerned. Cash only. €13.66. Pay on the bus to the conductor. It left in 11 minutes.
