8/30-9/5, the main backpack trip.
Day 1, TH ‐ Upper Lamarck Lake. 8/30, Tuesday.
Drove to North Lake parking lot (~9300'), sun drenched. No shade at all. Reshuffled food, relabelled all for the bear bin. Changed into a clean set of underwear and hiking pants, hiding on one side of the car. I managed to change my contact lens, thanks to CB's water jug. We also ate bananas and mandarin. I ate some bread and cheese.
It was about 10:30 when we walked onto the toasty road to the campground. The campground itself is leafy. A mux of cottonwood and pines. A creek runs through. Quite pleasant.
At the end of the campground, a sign indicating Lamark Lakes and Piute Pass. We took the left fork, zigzagging up through the forest with plenty of shade at first. Then it's rock and sand. Some over-engineered trail with man-made rock walls.
I took a short detour to Grass Lake (~0.5 mile). Quite pretty with grassy shores.
Back to the junction, soon getting out of tree cover.
Caught up CB in the sun, we both took umbrellas out.
You can see Grass Lake from here. It looks more grassy than when I was at the lake shore.
Lower Lamarck Lake is quite pretty with towering peaks behind. I had thought about checking out Wonder Lakes. But it's too hot at 12:15. The XC route is in the sun.
We just relaxed by the lake, before heading up to Upper Lamarck Lake.
At 1:15, we reached Upper Lamarck, our 1st camp. Couldn't find a good campsite near the lake with rocky shores.
There're many good options near the trail junction on the way to Lamarck Col.
We settled here. Not far from the outlet of the lake.
I wasn't feeling very well, likely dehydrated. Rest. Wash and clean.
Around 5pm, we took food to the lake shore to cook dinner. Couldn't find a good flat spot in the shade. The lake is glacial blue. Saw quite some fish, small, but bigger than those in Blue Lake. As the sun moved on to us, we packed up, and walked up to the rocky butte by the outlet. The lake lost its color when the sun dipped lower.
Around 7pm, a guy waked in with a backpack. We saw quite a few earlier going by us from the Col. None stopped.
New moon. This night I just realized that we had 6 nights on this loop. I may be short on food.
Day 2, Lamarck Col ‐ Darwin Bench. 8/31, Wednesday.
Up early. Started hiking at 7:30am, hoping for cool morning. I packed 2L water, because there's no reliable source until Darwin Lakes.
The trail actually goes a little down, and then up a different valley.
A small snow patch to cool my water. Up one plateau and another. Seems endless, but it's less than 3 miles to the col.
You can see Upper Lamarck Lake at ~11900' if you walk over to the right at the ridge.
Occasional breeze kept sweat low. At some point I actually felt cold and put on gloves.
At the basin below Lamarck Col, I found a big rock with enough shade to wait for CB. Took my socks off to dry.
Filled my 1L bottle, dumped the rest of the water.
Had to put on rain jacket for the wind.
Here, I stashed my backpack, took the water bottle, 2 bars, scrambled to Mount Lamarck.
It's all rocks. Mostly stable. Steep.
The top is almost flat, and very big. Great views all around.
Definitely a worthwhile short jaunt.
Going up and down Lamarck Col is more of a scramble than a hike.
Near the col, there's a more defined track on both sides. Lower down, tracks are all over the place.
Basically pick your own route.
Looking down the chain of 4 lakes of gradually diluted glacier color under Darwin Glacier. Super pretty.
Saw some shooting stars.
CB found a tall rock for shade at the end of the 2nd lake, and waited for me. I stopped and took my socks out to dry. Only then, I saw that one of my foot had 3 socks on!
Continued all 4 lakes on their right (north) shore. Lots of rock hopping. At the end of the 3rd lake, we filled water, and took a break behind some sqwany trees. A ranger walked by on her way to her station at Evolution Lake. I asked her a couple of questions (Davis Lake Pass is easy, yes campsites at McDermott Lake).
Finally got to a verdant high basin, the Darwin Bench. All along very pretty.
Took us awhile to find a shady campsite. We were spent, even though we hiked maybe only 6 miles. It's very hot.
After dinner, saw a climber arriving with a very small backpack. He used a bivy. We strolled around as the sun set. Some paintbrush and lupine here. Ground sheet was wet today.
Day 3, JMT, Evolution Lake ‐ Mid Fork Kings River. 9/1, Thursday.
Started walking at 8am. Going down Darwin Bench has 2 trails. We followed the one higher, but lost it frequently. At the junction of JMT/PCT, we walked straight, going downhill. No sign. I thought it was the junction of the 2 trails to Darwin Canyon. I checked my map, because the trail is in much better condition, and we started to see people. Only then, I realized that we were already on JMT, but going in the wrong direction.
The first big lake we saw is Evolution Lake. My favorite today.
It's very large (long), many nooks and little peninsulas, ringed by meadows and clumps of trees, under towering mountains.
Saw a coyote walking by calmly.
We made a break checking out the area before continue.
The trail goes along the north shore. Lovely all the way.
At the end of the lake, rock slides to go up (~100') to another large (long) lake basin.
After a few small tarns, it's Sapphire Lake. Again, gorgeous.
Met many JMT through hikers, PCT section hikers. I asked the first few we met what their favorites were. Some answers are LeConte Canyon, Foster Pass, Donahue Pass, Kings River Canyon.
We took a break above Sapphire Lake.
Above Sapphire Lake, it gets more and more bleak. No more trees, a lot of rocks. Still beautiful.
I took a jaunt over Davis Lake Pass to see Davis Lakes basin.
The pass is so flat, it even has a pond right in the middle.
I had to scramble up to see the basin below. The first Davis Lake has a very pretty glacial green.
The photo to the right is at the flat pass, looking back at Wanda Lake.
I initially planned to camp at McDermott Lake, and go over Muir Pass the next day.
But it doesn't look inviting for camping. Pretty, yes. But no shade whatsoever.
Thankfully more clouds developed in the afternoon, so it was not too hot.
Here, I caught up with CB.
We pushed onwards, to Muir Pass.
Muir Hut was locked.
The upper half of the door can be open, so we could peek inside.
It smells damp. A window, a chimney, so maybe the fireplace worked. Ring of stone bench along the wall.
Going down east of Muir Pass feels very different. Beautiful too, but all rocks, not fit for camping.
Here, the rocks have red streaks, some are as dark as purple.
After Helen Lake (where we refilled water), the trail meanders into a narrow canyon, Middle Fork Kings River.
More rugged.
Sometimes the creek crossing is laid by flat rocks fit perfectly.
We were looking for campsites. The 1st lake (~11320') in the canyon has a nice campsite, and was taken.
Further down, another area was taken.
CB was getting anxious and in a foul mood, mostly because his knee was hurting.
We found some camp sites by the 2nd lake (~10840') along the river.
On my map, another ~half a mile should be an established camp area (~10580').
CB informed me that we already walked 12 miles.
This place doesn't have many options. My tent was squeezed between 2 trees.
Quite picturesque though. 2 pikas were chasing each other, making squeaking noise.
It was already after 5pm, and the sun was below the western hills.
I only washed socks, didn't rinse my shirt as in the previous days.
Nice sunset.
Another starry night.
Day 4, JMT, Mid Fork Kings River ‐ LeCont ‐ Lower Dusy Basin. 9/2, Friday.
We started hiking at 8am. 13 minutes later, we passed a small camping area next to (but above) the creek) with trees.
Going down the canyon for ~2000'. I wouldn't want to come up this way. It was quite hot already in the morning.
The next lake on the map (~10400') is just a meadow now, with a narrow creek in the middle. Large and pretty.
The trail continues to go down, and the Middle Fork Kings River continues to fall.
More and more trees. The canyon get a bit wider.
~9400', almost at the bottom of the canyon, there's this funny rock layout, named "Rock Monster" on Gaia Map. CB crawled in the jaw for photos. Flat here, possible campsite.
Shortly after, Big Pete meadow (~9300') looks very nice. This is marked on the map as a camping area.
Next is Little Pete meadow (~8900') where the river bends a little. It's bigger and wider than Big Pete. Also marked on the map as a camping area.
By 11am, I made it to the junction with Bishop Pass Trail (~8780'). Lowest point of our entire route. Bishop pass is 6.6 miles 3300 up' from here. A group of 5 were resting here. I chatted with them, while waiting for CB. They are from LA area, doing North-South Lakes loop. Had 2 cars at each TH.
After they left, we visited the ranger station, just ~100' away. It was closed: a note "out patrolling".
It has 2 solar panels, an outhouse, a propane tube, lots of tin buckets, a nice porch, chair and bench.
3 deer hung out here.
While we were filtering water (walk down to the river) and eating snacks, 2 hikers walked in.
They came from Pine Creek Pass, over Star Col (Mesa Lake is very pretty), down to Desolation Lakes to Humphrey Basin, up to Piute Pass, down to Muriel Lake, up to Goethe Lake, over Alpine Col to Darwin Bench.
They both had big cuts on the leg scrambling over Alpine Col. No trail there.
They also visited Ionian Basin (south of Mount Solomon/Muir Pass).
They are heading out to South Lake TH tomorrow. Total 7 days. Very fast on their challenging route.
We rested here for ~1 hour. Saw many hikers going left and right on JMT. But no other else bothered to visit the ranger station.
Around noon, even though it was hot, we decided to continue up, as we were in the forest.
There's a campsite marked on my map ~700' up.
Sure thing, we found good campsites next to the creek ~9500'. No view at all.
Still too early, and enough clouds were providing some shade off and on.
We decided to continue up. Met a young lady with 4 loaded mules delivering supplies to the ranger stations below.
Apart from her, we saw only 1 young guy, and 1 senior lady going down on this trail. No longer on JMT.
Saw some big Bristlecone Pines along the zigzag higher up.
As you go higher and higher, better view of the Middle Fork Kings River canyon.
Lower Dusy Basin (~10700') is gorgeous. We were both exhausted due to the heat.
Many campsites by the lake, but none in shade. Found 2 sites far apart half in shade.
I washed my hiking pants (and socks and shirts). Laid then on trees to dry.
The lake is shallow, warm, full of sediments, some algae, lots of reeds, not good for washing.
Fish jumping, ducks swimming, idyllic.
The night wasn't cold. I had one tent door open all night, so I could see stars and the lake.
Day 5, Upper Dusy Basin. 9/3, Saturday.
We decided to leave 30 minutes later than usual. At 8:30am, it was already too warm.
The upper basin is 600' up. Many lakes. The main one closest to the trail is more convenient, and also most popular.
A few tents here already. Many nice sites, but all too sunny.
I wasn't eating enough, low on energy.
CB got was disgruntle again because I went to the west side of the lake (better view).
He found more shady sites (a rare thing here due to lack of trees) at the east side, so I moved to his finds.
Laid ground sheet at the camp to "mark my territory".
I ate a tuna packet and an Epic bar, hoping to boost energy.
We took off with a day pack in search of 3 other lakes east of a low ridge.
They are right under the rocky peaks, very pretty, but no trees to provide any shade.
After filling water at the first lake, I took off for a loop over Isosceles Pass (12000') to upper Palisade Basin and back over Knapsack Pass.
I bit more than I could chew. Completely exhausted.
Up to Isosceles Pass has no track, rock hopping + path finding all the way.
The little tarn on the map below the pass was completely dry.
Going down the east side is not as steep. Saw 3 lakes below.
Looking down at both Dusy and Palisade basins, they don't look as pretty as when I'm in the basin.
More and more clouds.
I refilled water at the first lake.
Cut over the 2nd lake towards Knapsack Pass, Which is at about the same elevation as the first lake.
Saw a grouse here, and some bright pink willowherb.
Eventually I hit a trail, which goes up at least 100' unnecessarily.
The trail is well established. It's on the right side of the pass as you go up.
Getting down Knapsack to Dusy also has a track initially, but I lost it soon and found some boot tracks off and on in all directions.
Getting back to camp took longer than I hoped.
By the time I returned to camp, I couldn't stop the heavy breathing for a long time, feeling faint.
I think I wasn't eating enough.
It rained a few drops, I hurried to set up the tent.
I ate a large dinner, and felt much better.
Nice sunset. No more rain.
Day 6, Bishop Pass ‐ Chocolate Lakes. 9/4, Sunday.
Back to the usual 8am start. We hiked out a few minutes earlier.
Up to Bishop Pass is many flattish zigzags. A park boundary sign right at the pass.
Down is similar, but drops more elevation.
We started to see many day hikers, and a climber for Agassiz.
Passed an empty sign on top of a very tall pole.
Bishop lake and Saddlerock lake are both very pretty. This whole valley is quite pretty.
We made a rest stop at Saddlerock.
The trail continues to drop elevation slowly. Passing more lakes: Timberline Tarns, Spearhead Lake.
Instead of taking a longer route over Chocolate Lakes, we continued along Long Lake, hoping to set up camp at the end of Long Lake.
We didn't find any good site, and detoured to Bull Lake. Many camping choices here.
Even though not on the main drag, a lot of people come to Bull Lake.
We chatted with a couple from LA, who comes to Sierras to hike often.
They said that at late spring (May/June) is also a good time as soon as the road is clear.
Mountains are still snow cladded, lakes are frozen. Very pretty and no people.
After a short break, I set up my ground sheet, left my backpack there, packed a small pack with water, filter, snack, a towel and headed up to Chocolate Lakes - the 3 lakes above us next to Chocolate Peak.
Rocks here are dark red. The 3rd lake is the prettiest. Possible to continue up and loop back to Long Lake via Ruwau Lake.
I attempted to swim in the 3rd lake, but it was too cold.
Washed my shirt and pants, waited for them to dry, while admiring the beauty of my surroundings.
Some later time, CB arrived.
We hiked back together.
On the way back, I picked a mushroom for dinner.
There were quite a few along the creek up to the first lake.
Found a few big ones at Bull Lake, but all full of worms.
Gave half of my mushroom to CB to try.
Only 4pm. Read at the camp. Cooked dinner at the little white beach. My nose bled again (the 4th time). Today is my easiest day.
Day 7, hiking out. 9/5, Labor Day.
Started hiking out at 6:35am, hoping to catch the shuttle at 8:45. It's only about 2 miles.
Clouds even a couple of rain drops. Nice cool morning for hiking. Met hikers coming in already at this hour.
South Lake, a reservoir, is quite pretty.
We made to the picnic area at South Lake in 1 hour. ~9400'.
It's also the overnight parking lot. There are 2 large garbage bins, 2 vault toilets.
2 cars coming. Then I saw a couple retrieving cooler and food from the bear bin.
I asked them if they were leaving, and if so could they give one of us a ride to the road junction.
They kindly offered to take us all the way up to North Lake parking lot.
I had to ditch my non-collapsible hiking pole at the trail sign: they have a Prius, barely fit with our packs on the lap.
They live in Vegas area (Mt. Charleston). He's from New Zealand. He just climbed Vagabond Peak yesterday.
They are going to hike from Pine Creek to South Lake in 2 weeks time with a few friends.
Back to the sun drenched parking lot. It wasn't too hot yet. Ate and changed. Headed out.
85°F at 9am，Bishop. 98°F ~noon, at Reno for gas.
