Conclusions
- Lemah is better climbed earlier in the season. Right now, moat is a problem.
- Chikamin, we were able to avoid most snow altogether.
- Too many mosquitoes with the snow melt. Extremely scenic with many waterfalls, half-thawed turqoise ponds. Quite a lot of flowers.
- After this trip, I ordered a different set of crampons and ice axe, cutting the weight in half, with some compromises. Also bought a pair of lighter weight sandles.
To cut down weight, I didn't bring any cooking gear. Brought my lightest sleeping bag (1.1Lb) due to the expected hot weather. Also I wore the same hiking shirt and pants all 3 days (was able to wash my shirt and socks every day). I did bring a set of T-shirt, shorts and socks, and 3 bananas for after-hike. I also brought a lightweight tubberware for food storage.
We started at Mineral Creek TH around 11am (this photo was taken 2 days later when I hiked out), towards Park Lakes. Not too many bugs yet. The very first obstacle is Kachess River. With care, it's not too difficult.
At the first junction, take right, more or less followed Mineral Creek. The trail has recently been power-brushed. Alternating between trimmed thimbleberry bushes (hot) and forest (shade). Already, we had to made multiple stops for J to catch up. At about mile 4, a sharp descent to cross a creek, and a steep but short uphill. From then on, no more trail maintenance. A few fallen logs to get over/below/around. Finally you see the water coming down from Park Lakes, but not close enough to easily fill water. We made a lunch stop at one of the empty campsites under trees. Saw a fighter jet flew above. Heard them more. Seafair week in Seattle. Nice view. Some heathers. I filtered water. Not too many mosquitoes.
Instead of visiting other Park Lakes, we turned onto PCT for less than 1 mile. At the junction, met a guy going on PCT south bound. He was resting by a small creek filtering water. We turned on to the creek. A clear path to follow. Going up to the lowest part of the Chikamin Ridge. Then going down to Glacier Lake. Mosquitoes galore from the pass all the way down to Glacier Lake. The view starts to get really good. More and more jaggard peaks. Snow melting, forming little tarns and mosquitoes, pretty. Kudo to J, who decided to make a long bio stop. Even waiting, Z and I had to walk around so we were not sitting meals for the bugs. We didn't make a stop at Glacier Lake. Very pretty, but too buggy. We had to take off our boots to cross its outlet. I brought sandals, so it was easy.
The trail continues towards the upper lake, but soon get fainter. It's very pretty all the way up. We didn't actually get to the upper lake (you'll go by it, if you climb Chikamin Peak from here. Instead, we veered right, up the ridge towards Chikamin Lake basin. Along the way, a few cascades, a large waterfall.
Finally, at 6:50pm, we arrived. There was a tent pitched at the 2nd pond. We continued, and Z found a site on a small hill, half in the trees, that can accommodate 3 tents.
This is J's tent next morning overlooking Chikamin Lake. Notice this big iceberg. It'll melt completely in 24 hours. Sun hadn't set yet. I washed my shirt, and wore the wet shirt to cool down. The mosquitoes were not as bad as at Glacier Lake. Still I didn't dare to do a long bio break until after 9:15pm, when they are gone.
Saw some headlights coming down the hills to the north.
Stars at night.
7/31, Sunday. We left at 6:10am. First, skirt around the eastside of the lake, passing 2 snowfields. Snow was still hard. Then scrambled up towards Lemah1. Quite some lupine on the higher reach of this slope. This photo was taken on our way down later in the day.
Before reaching the ridge, skirt right (east) to gain on a ridge. This narrow ridge is splendid. We stayed either on the top, or to its south slope. Occasionally we could see boottracks here. The tricky bit is going down to the snow from the ridge. Would be easier a month earlier, when the snow reached the ridge proper. I actually found a safe route, and we made down to the snow. There, Z and J put on crampons. I decided to glissade. However, there are rocks poking out here and there, so I had to adjust my sliding direction multiple times. I ended down there slower than Z, who walked. We waited for J slowly inching down the snow slope. I wondered to myself, how is possible that she just did Eldorado last month, which has a steep and exposed snow ridge. See above wide photo where we got down to the snow.
This basin, with a half-melt blue tarn, is utterly breathtaking. Yes, mosquitoes, but not too bad. Earlier in the season, it's better to just walk on the snow slope, right below Lemah. Now, we skirted around, most on rocks, because the snow slope west the blue tarn had too many rocks poking out. The longer detour is safe, and relatively easy.
Eventually, we had to climb on snow again. It's steep. Here, J decided to turn around. The rest of us slowly moved up. At one point, I was going towards a moat, and had to change direction. That wasted quite some time, because I was going rather slow, making each step count. I didn't put on crampons. After safely get on the rocks, scrambling part isn't hard. Then, there's another stretch of steep snow. Short though. By the time I got on to the final rock pile, I was exhausted. Found a rock to sit and rested. Z already made it to the top, and came down, as I was eating a bar. He said, he'd go try Lemah2. The refuel was necessary. I climbed to the top without too much delay. Well, still took ~20 minutes.
Getting back to the snow was also a bit sketchy. You see here, water is falling on the rock, so can be slippery at places. Z turned around from Lemah 2, and watched and directed me getting on to the snow from the far side.
We found J hiding between 2 big rocks for shade at the bottom of the basin. Going back on the ridge is not as bad as coming down, but still took time, especially the transition to the rock. A bit loose here. After the glorious ridge, we were back on the slope below Lemah1. Z and I decided to give it a go. At its base, we looked for different angles to climb. I gave up. Z continued. It's a short climb. He quickly summited and on his way down, he kicked off a rock which he used to go up. So, he was stuck for awhile. It took him back and forth quite a few tries to make it down, meanwhile kicking rocks down towards me. So I backed out farther. When I heard him saying that he made it out, I continued walking down.
We couldn't find J. I saw a piece of blue in a cluster of trees. Went there, and found her hand towel, but no J. Now, I was getting really worried. Whistled, screamed her name. No response. We continued down. Finally back near the lake, saw her chatting with a group of 4 guys right before the 2nd snow stretch. They tried to climb Chikamin Peak from this side, and had to turn around. We actually thought about it on our way up. Didn't try only because we ran out of time for today.
When we returned to camp, it was almost 6pm. 12 hours to hike ~4 miles! A beautiful and difficult 4 miles. Again, I washed my shirt, and put on the wet shirt. Torn a big hole on the left shoulder: there, I later found many mosquito bites. By the time I finished dinner, my shirt was dry. I managed to read a bit before going to sleep.
8/1, Monday. A few welcoming clouds. Slightly cooler. We set 6am departure. However, J was still sleeping when I talked to her at 5:30am :( So, had to wait for her. She's quite meticulour, which is good. We didn't forget anything at camp. We didn't want to go back to Upper Glacier Lake to pick up the track to Chikamin Peak. So picked our way around X-country. One detour. At one place, I squeezed through some trees, and asked J to pass my bacpack to me, and then to pass her backpack to me, then she climbed over the trees. Her pack is heavy. It turns out that she only ate half of her cooked breakfast, and carried the leftover! I really enjoyed the route finding. The scenary is grand and open, boulders and heathers.
Here, we finally on the proper climb. We left our backpack on a small flat area. Scrambled up with light pack. On this photo, I highlighted the route we will be taking going out.
From here up, it was easier than getting to this point. We all made to the summit in short order. Met a young guy day hiking from Mineral Creek TH. He said he has only one peak left (Huckleberry) to complete the 20 Snoqualmie Peaks. I didn't even know such list existed. Well, there's a list for everything. J likes to be photographed, so we spent quite some time on the summit. The view is splendid. Ate and rested.
Going down as we came. Picked up our packs. Continued on the ridge, fairly easy. Occasionally we could see boot track. A little bit of snow left. We found the turn going down to PCT. There was a cairn. It started okay, and got to quite steep and sketchy. We made different short scouting spurs. At one point, J lowered her pack to me to set aside. By the time we got down all the rocks, we gave each other a high-five.
PCT is a highway, well maintained. Quite a lot of flowers on the slope where the PCT traverses. It's hot (south facing). We wet total of 2 solo hikers on PCT. The view to Park Lake from above is quite pretty. We didn't stop at Park Lake. Hiked out directly. My eye was getting cloudy again. I stopped at the creek crossing (4 mile from TH) to throw away the contact lens. Put on glasses. J was getting low on energy. When she caught up with me in the forest, I was reading my book, had my boots and socks off to dry. She then took out her "cooked breakfast" and ate. No wonder her pack was heavy.
Back at TH almost 6pm. Quite some mosquitoes today. We made a stop at Cle Elum Safeway to use the restroom. Z bought his usual Coke and jerky. J, a fruit tray. Me, a beer. They dropped me off at home.