Sunday, April 18, 2021

2021.4.19. Lane Peak

When I learned that V and O's climb of Lane Peak was for Sunday, I asked if I could join, but not via "Zipper", a north face couloir. I would climb via the saddle from the southeast. That was already 9pm Saturday -- a real last minute request.

4/19, Sunday. Left home at 6am. My bus had some mechanic issue, that the driver stopped twice checking around. The 2nd time, he asked for a replacement bus. But in the end, he drove the bus to the end. So I was 20 minutes late! We were supposed to meet O and T at Narada Falls' parking lot at 9am. Here, you can see Lane Peak's north face, and the couloirs. Narada FallsThe waterfall was in the shade in the morning. It carved a ditch in the snow below. We put on spikes, and followed the trail down.

At the end of the boot track, we followed some ski track, more or less the same as the trail on my GPS map up hill. The trail gets very close to the road (closed now, but snow free). O and V put on snowshoes, T and I were postholing a bit. We got onto the road, but very soon had to drop down again, cross Tatoosh Creek. The creek was more or less still buried under the snow. Very small. Earlier, we did worry about crossing this creek. This flat basin looks quite pretty, a good place to camp (before the road opens). See the photo with O and T ahead of me, and Lane Peak. At some point, I realized that I left my water bottle in V's car. So chewing snow frequently.

Soon after crossing the flat basin, we parted our ways. I went up toward the saddle, and they towards the "zipper". O and V stashed their snowshoes here, which is too early. Before my climb started, I put on crampons, and took out ice-axe. The going is straightforward, plenty boot tracks to follow. The slope is steep first, then eases out. I postholed a lot. It was a bit painful going up, when you lose half of the steps. After the first acent, veer left through trees for a minute before going up again, less steep. Many footprints here. I wish I had brought my snowshoes, instead of crampons. All soft and slushy snow. Before I reached the saddle proper, I saw my team had finished the zipper. That was a surprise. They didn't even rope up. Must be easy. We waved to each other. For some reason, here, O took to rocks instead of staying on the snow.

I continued up in the snow, postholing. Avalanche signs everywhere. In fact, thin snow slides went on both sides of me. The last ascent is very very steep. I think I'd prefer harder snow here. Near the summit ridge, I yelled "I'm almost here, wait for me", assuming the other three had already arrived. A very short, exposed walk left to the summit block. No one was there. I took off crampons, shoes, socks, and gloves. Laid them on rocks in the sun to dry. Then walked bare feet to the last rock. It's flat. Took photos. A little bit of wind, I put on my fleece, and walked down hiding behind a rock, watching over my wet laundary. Ate my lunch. Still no sign of anyone else. The view is splendid here. 40 minutes later, I saw a red helmet. That's T. And slowly, very slowly the three of them finally arrived, more than an hour after me. They were all roped up now, T and O were arguing...

Once we all rested, I went down first. T followed shortly after. It's better to space apart. At one point, he decided to glissade, without ice-axe. He brought 2 ice-tools. He went down safely, so I followed suit. Soft snow helps, didn't need to break much. There were 2 anchors tied to a tree up there. O and V tied rope to it and rappelled down, very slowly. T and I waited hiding in the shade. Here's a photo of the steep ascent from where we sat. Again, a long wait. When O arrived, T said he needed to head out. He asked me if it's easy to find his way out, and then took off. We waited for V to arrive at last, and went down together. I lost my micro-spike again post-holing. I went back up and found it. V lost both spikes. Once I caught up with them down at the Tatoosh Creek basin, I took over V's 30m rope. They put on their snowshoes, I kept on postholing. Afternoon is worse. At least on the way back, we knew how to cut the trail. We took to the road, walked along the road to right above the parking lot, and just glissaded down. T followed our original route, hadn't left the parking lot.

I hid a can of beer in the snow next to the parking lot. Found it and drank. Was very thirsty. Left the can by the car. I went to talk to O, and when I came back, my can was gone. It turns out some car drove over it!

We left the park much later than I expected. Only got to my P&R ~8:20. Waited for the bus for 15 minutes, and the damn bus drove by without stopping. Signed "bus full". Had to wait another 30 minutes. Thankfully this bus took me. Otherwise, the next one won't be for another hour!