11/28, Thanksgiving Thursday. After a large lunch (stewed pheasant with mushroom, baked wild salmon, Brussels sprouts, mixed spring salad), packed the leftover and headed to Edmonds-Kingston ferry. Arrived at the toll gate at 3:05pm, and got on the 3:15pm ferry. My shortest wait ever. The ferry wasn't even half full. Relaxing short ride with great view of Baker to the north and Rainier to the south.
Stopped by Jamestown S'Klallam tribal center and its Veteran Memorial, in Blyn, surrounded by Christmas lights at the south end of Sequim Bay, blinking in the dusk. 7 Cedar Casino is building a hotel, fence and construction material next to many more Christmas lights.
After checking into Sequim Bay Lodge, the closest hotel to our trail head, drove to Sequim downtown. Some lights on the main street, quiet around 5:30pm. All is closed. Then, to Sequim Bay State Park. The boat launch was under construction. A few camper vans.A quick dinner of the leftover. Made sandwich for tomorrow. Set alarm at 6:40am. Retired early.
11/29, Friday, sunny, not a shred of cloud, cold. Breakfast is crepe, goat cheese, prosciutto, oat meal with dried fruits, banana. Headed out around 7:30am. 25°F. ~50 min drive to Upper Dungeness TH, ~2500', still 25deg;F. Upper Royal Basin was my favorite place in Olympics. When I was there in summer 2010, the small lake was a beautiful glacier turquoise, ringed by pink heather. 
Right now, the trail is in good shape, well signed (brand new signs), gentle slope if not flat. Now frozen ground, green moss, a few small patches of black ice, which can be easily skirted around. Only one large section where I put micro-spikes on (half an hour below the lake). A nice bridge in ~1 mile, some camp sites close by (where we camped 9 years ago). We continue forward, now on Royal Basin Trail. Upper Dungeness Trail turns left onto the bridge, it leads 7 miles to Marmot Pass. In another mile or so, near the junction of Mount Maynard way trail (up to the right), we entered the national park boundary. The first glance (9:35am) of the mountains is after the first hour, and we started to encounter light snow on the ground. Back in the trees, and break out a few more times (10:20, 10:30). Around 11:15, an open but narrow willow meadow. The frost on those twigs grew in star shape, all sparkling in the sun, like a crystal forest.
Finally, we arrived at Royal Lake ~11:45am. Bigger and prettier than I remembered. Everything sparkles. Saw another couple, who were cooking meal in a Jetboil. We had lunch here too. Warm in the sun, but still chilly in the shade. 
Camping area is to the far end of the lake and on the right. Two substantial toilets, yes, can still open. The through trail is on the left side of the lake, which is the only way marked on my GPS app. However, no visible track above the lake. Snow covered everything. The four of us had to rely on my map to find the trail. A little bushwhacking. My map shows that the trail is to the left of a creek, but there are multiple creeks here. In fact, you have to be on the right side of the first and second visible creek. On the way back, we took the other side of the lake, more straightforward.
After leaving the lake area behind, scramble along the slope (somewhat steep) on the left (right when you come down, as show on this photo) side of this meadow. As you crest the upper basin, you cross the main creek. The Upper Lake is to the right of a nice flat basin. Absolutely beautiful here. However, not the blue color I wanted to see.
Had a long snack break, wandered around the beautiful basin. 
We turned around ~1:50pm, the shadow was already catching us: the sun was dipping low over the mountains to the south. If you camp here, can extend your trip off-trail south over a ridge into Deception Basin or east over a ridge into Milk Creek Basin. I can see two small tarns on my map: something to checkout in the future.On the way back, we visited the closed ranger station, just a tent platform now. Took the short trail to the waterfall, where I lost my camera 9 years ago. The waterfall was mostly frozen, small, not pretty. Encountered another couple when we put our headlamps on. Saw a tent with camp fire. We reached the car ~6:20pm. Good night sky at TH, could see milky way. 25°F again. Walked the last hour with head lamp on. Sunset was around 4:20pm now. Still I managed to trip over a small root, fell head over heel onto the trail. Got my knees and one hand bruised. Thankfully, nothing serious was broken. My left hand was swollen for the next 5 days.
Total 46K steps, ~16 miles RT, ~2600' EG.
11/30, Saturday, sunny, slight cloud. Didn't need to get up early. Packed out. Drove up to Hurricane Ridge. Stopped at the ranger station before the park gate, inquiring options. We decided on Klahhane Ridge, over Obstruction Point road and Hurricane Hill. Also hoped to fill water bottle. The filling station is outdoors, so practically frozen. Quite busy on this sunny Saturday.
Hurricane Ridge was beautiful today. About a dozen cars ~10:30am. The visitor center is heated, filled with light. Eating tables, big windows, viewing deck. An aged volunteer ranger, holding a cup of hot drink, was commenting on his frozen fingers.
The trail starts at the west end of the parking lot (closer to the road downhill). Goes behind the trees for a bit (chilly), by the lift. Not many people after Sunrise Point. Great views (almost) all along the trail. More or less on or next to a ridge. Quite a few zigzags to reach the trail junction with Heather Park trail. View to Baker, and Mt. Angeles jagged top. Of course Port Angeles below, and Victoria beyond Puget Sound. 
We continued further to the high point of Klahhane Ridge, before returning at 2pm, which gave us ample time to view the sunset and get off the road by 5pm (the gate will lock at 5). Klahhane Ridge continues a mile or so further before dipping down towards Lake Angeles. 
I think I will attempt the 12 miles 4700' gain Heather Park loop, anti-clockwise, to allow a dip in Lake Angeles 5 miles before the car. It'll save half an hour driving, but extra 2200' elevation gain. So more of an exercise.Total 26000 steps. Fairly easy, and what a view, in all directions.
Dumped my pack and poles in the car. Back at the visitor center ~4pm. At least 30 cars in the parking lot now. Some folks just came up for the sunset. I waited inside for the sun to set, facing the windows. Didn't even go down to the restroom, so not to waste the precious last 20 minutes of glory.Satisfied, we drove down in increasing darkness. After a stop of beer and gas at the Longhouse in Blyn, we drive to the ferry. The sign along the highway warned "wait time 2 hours". We caught the very next sailing (7pm), the last 10 cars on the boat. It was full.
11/31, the weather turned south on Sunday.
