11/21, day 4, Tuesday. 4am shuttle (Q140, ~7hr) to Copan Ruinas (warmer and humid). I asked the agency not to put me in the middle seat by the driver, so I was told to wait for the shuttle at 3:45. There was one passenger already when it arrived at 3:50. It then made rounds to pick up the rest. Only 3 more stops here, but 2 more in Guatemala City. Total 10 passengers. At this early hour, we made it to Guate in 40 min. Around 8:30, the driver stopped at a hotel for breakfast. We were not forced to eat here, and we can use the bathroom. I walked to a small supermarket bought a yugort and beer. It's getting warm already. 30 some minutes later, we were off again. Going through the custom is easy. At the exit window, someone asks if you are coming back, and how many days in Honduras. Then, walk to a big building, pay Q30, and given a $3 receipt. We left the border around 11am, temperature was rising. Copan is only 10km away. The Dutch girl Rachel and me were the last to be dropped off, at Hotel and Hostel Berakah. I paid $ for my room.
I went to a bank to change some money ($1~=L23.5). Not really necessary, because most places will take US $1 L21~22. Had lunch at Comedor Y Pupuseria Mary, rated by wikitravel as the best Honduras food in town. Today's special is a fish soup, comes with drink (I had jamaica). Tasty soup. L110 (~$5).
Bought a trip to the Luna Jaguar Hot Spring at 1pm. L440 or $20. Rachel is also on this. I didn't see any other tourist there until I was ready to leave. The ride there is very bumpy. The driver looks younger than 20. Took over an hour for 25km, passing many homes, some look quite fancy with elaborate gates and walls. Still garbage here and there. Saw a pig in someone's yard. The hot spring is nice. Artificial pipes and rocks are laid out to make pools and sprouts, channeling both hot spring and cold river water. The soaking area is in the woods (ants will crawl on you), so no need sun protection. However the walk between the change room and door (where lockers are) is out in the open. I don't like the change room. Mine doesn't have a lock, and the door is lower than my shoulder, and the other side is men's change room. 
Overall, relaxing. I get to type up this blog and read about what to see tomorrow. I especially like it now that we were almost alone here. Only later when I was ready to leave, that I saw a group of girls were in the terraces below the store. 5:30 is the return pickup. I forgot my water bottle there. At the swimming pool area (no one uses those), I saw locals enjoying the natural hot spring at the river side, outside of the fences of this resort. I enjoyed this place, but not sure if it's worth the 2 hours drive in/out, plus $20.
For dinner, I went to Twisted Tanya. Also highly recommended. The backpacker menu looks good, and priced in $. I asked the guy if they serve Honduras food. He recommended my lunch spot and Llama del Bosque. So there I went. Had Anafre, which comes in an impressive earthy pot. Basically, tortilla chip in dip. Two types of dips: bean and cheese, or Chorizo. I ordered the mix. Not bad. A bit too salty and oily.
11/22, day 5, Wednesday. Maya ruin of Copan. Overcast. The park is open 8-5, so no sunrise nor sunset. I got up early at 6:30 hoping to get breakfast before leaving for the ruined. But the town is still asleep at this hour. Most places would not open until 7 or 8. I arrived at the ticket office at 7:45. The gate was open but no one at the ticket office yet. I could wander around. Macaws were making a lot of noise. $15/L345. They take credit card.
I walked to the ticket control, I was the first person on the register today. He stamped my ticket. Copan is small so doesn't take long to visit the whole site. It's hard to imagine 20k population during its heydays. It was very quiet when I arrived. Walking on the grass got my shoes wet with dew. My solitude didn't last long. A group of Chinese arrived ~8:30. So I took to a different trail to leave the crowd behind. Overall not too many people. The Rosalia Temple can't be seen, inside the core of Temple 16. A replica and many original stelae are in the museum. 
Copan is famous for the elaborated stelae. There are quite a few, and the carved grand staircase under a low cover (which I initially thought it was under construction and didn't visit). Most of them with one side of a portrait (of a king), and backside is often carved. A few have carvings on all 4 sides. 
Sepulturas is 15 minutes walk around the entrance. However it could be much faster if they make the trail between the closest points of the two sites. Basically you have to walk along the road. 
The idea of the trail here is it parallels the road. Again, I'm the first person at the site. I could be the only person today. On the register I saw three names for yesterday. Had my ticket stamped again. Here is the area of archaeology sites about the same size, but not as elaborate. When I walked back by the main entrance, the big parking lot was half full, and three large tour buses. Back in town, bought beer, milk and some banana. My cash is not enough for a lunch, nor I had time. Left the rest Limpira to the girl at the hotel. I had a quick shower. Copan is humid, the clothes that I washed yesterday didn't dry.
12:00 shuttle to Antigua. As usual, the shuttle didn't show up until 10 past, and we were the first passengers. 4 more. Same driver. He drives this RT every day for 12 years. Fortunately, the driver agreed to turn on AC. At the border, some Guatemala surveyor asked me where I came from and how long I'd be in the country. Then he have me a nice map of the country and one of Antigua. Our driver bought a some diesel from a road side shed (cheap than gas station : Q16/gl instead of Q20). At 3, we stopped for bathroom break. Not as nice, same area. I ordered a tortilla con carne. They are made with thick dough. Well, a filling lunch. It's very hot here.
Road construction. Crawling for 1.5 hours, until the road becomes 2 lane. The locals take advantage of these traffic jams to sell stuff, not just food and drink. More traffic in Guatemala City. Over an hour to get through the city. Back to my hotel at 9pm. The hassle of getting to Copan from Antigua is not really worth it. By now, I had a sore throat and butt, running nose.
Raining.
Stayed at the same dump. Turns out that no one was here, all locked up. Email didn't work (probably in short notice). Went to the corner store to call the property twice (2 different numbers). Despite of the recent rain, I found blanket hanging in the little courtyard out in the open.
Overall, I think Copan is not worth the 16 hours on bus breathing exhaust and dust. Copan the town is more genuine than Antigua.
