11/17, Friday ~10:30pm. I bought the one way ticket in April on Volaris, an airline that I had never heard before. It's the Spirit Airline of Mexico. Everything is extra. I paid $15 extra for speed boarding which includes seat selection. However, when I checked in, I wasn't given a chance to change seats. I was the only person in group 1 (out of 4), so I boarded the plane first, had no problem to store my 2 bags in overhead bin. 
I didn't pay for checkin bag nor medium carry-on. So my bags are small. My luggage will have to shrink down to 1 bag when I leave Guatemala, because I was planning to walk over the border, and walked to a ruin. There were some passengers inside the plane already when I got on. Seats are close together. Boarding is a mess since it's not by rows. A lot of roller bags, and the flight is full. I'm definitely the minority here. My Spanish is seriously inadequate.11/18, day 1, Saturday. Guadalajara is a busy airport even at 5:30am. Have to go through customs and security again. Lesson 1: avoid connection in Mexico if you are not visiting Mexico. Multiple paperwork. Maybe because of that, my second boarding pass wasn't available when I checked in in Portland. A long line at the counter. Many are going to US and many have huge suitcases. At the gate area, lots of seats, but separated from the boarding gates. Free wifi.
Arrived at GUA on time. At exit, 2 companies recruit passengers for shuttle to Antigua. Q80. I decided to get cash first, but no ATM at arrival area. Had to go across the road over many waiting relatives and hustlers to the parking garage, walk up to the 3rd floor (elevator doesn't work), walk across the street, passing another row of relatives and peddlers to the departure area (you can only enter with a ticket). I guess I look foreign enough, that the guard let me in. Only one ATM, and it charges a fixed Q41($6) for up to Q1000. Retraced my trajectory, but the guard at the arrival terminal wouldn't let me in. The shuttle operator saw me, and came out, showed me the driver. I followed the driver to a minivan with 3 passengers already. We waited for a 5th tourist. Not for long, and we were off to Antigua. Traffic is bad, and air is bad (exhaust is often black). Very warm in the car, but the driver prefers open window to AC. There're 2 Steves in the shuttle, one is a high school teacher from TX. He's dating a local girl, his 4th trip here this year. He is happy to share his knowledge of the local sights and food. The Indian girl who sat by me happened to work for Intel (lives very close to me) and took the same flight as I did. More coincidentally, she's staying in the same hotel (Don Ismael), where we were dropped off.
I spent the rest of the afternoon buying shuttle tickets for Chichi (Q70), Copan (Q140x2), Languin (Q130). There goes half of the cash. Wanted to book Acatenango Volcano overnight tour ($50, 9am-noon next day) from Bigfoot Hostel, but my schedule doesn't allow it (some of my hotel reservation was non-refundable). Visited the bus terminal and the market, bought fruits: rambutan, starfruit, zapote, 2 little avocado. A bit too much. I almost bought loquat and another fruit that Iooks like a potato. After washing them in the hotel, I ate all but starfruit. Too sour. Because I'm wary of the water here, I peeled skin. Too much work, and not enough flesh.
The town is nice enough. Lots of flower arrangements in the main tourist streets (5th Ave Norte). Overrun by tourists. 
Pastel colored houses. Many once you entered the door from the street, you get to see a courtyard, often with many plants, like the little hotel I stayed at (~$25). A few old churches. I also checked out a convent turned museum + cafe, now owned by some Spanish organization. However, I had difficult time to find a restaurant that serves local cuisine.
At 6pm, it gets dark, and temperature drops to very pleasant. Lot of people in the central park ~7pm (barely lit), peddlers show off their laser toys. I felt pretty safe walking around in the dark (not very late), still many people out.Wifi is pretty good in the little hotel. But the cobblestone street outside of my window is noisy, even though I closed the shutter. Couldn't find toothbrush.
11/19, day 2, Sunday. At 7am, I was ready, and stored half of my luggage at the hotel, waiting for my 7am shuttle to Chichicastenango's Sunday market. The 7:15am breakfast didn't materialize before I left, but the view of the volcano from 2nd floor balcony is quite nice. The shuttle didn't arrive until past 7:30, already full. I sat in the middle seat next to the driver. Very uncomfortable (I began to worry about the next 2 trips, 6-8 hrs). The gentleman on my right is from Chihuahua. He speaks good English. When I told him that I want to visit Palenque, he said he was there in the 70s. Much has changed since. Again, our driver prefers dust and fume to AC. There're many speed bumps on the road, so not going fast. Still, we were passed even by chicken buses a few times. By the time we reached Chichi, it was 10.
I didn't like this market at all. It's only good for textile (very colorful). The vegetable and fruits are scattered here and there, and much less than in Antigua's market. Very narrow alleys. More beggars and thieves (yes someone stole my purse from my pocket). Terribly crowded. No live animal, no pig head and the like. Lunch in the market is not good, nor cheap. 
I bought some loquat and bread for the hike tomorrow. Ate red banana (Q1/each) and cut papaya (Q5 a cup). Both are good (but you can find them in Antigua too). A big French tour group in Santo Thomas. No photo inside. Lots of beggars and flower sellers on its steps, but quiet inside the church and its courtyard. The other church is also painted white, metallic white. There's also a tiny park, where someone was delivering a speech.Instead of taking the 2pm shuttle, I hopped on a bus to Los Encuentos (Q5), the road junction to Lake Atitlán. I didn't even have to wait. It was packed, but till trying to pick up more passengers. At Los Encuentos, I was hoping to get to San Pedro La Laguna. But there's no direct bus.
I was told to transfer at somewhere called 148 (turns out it's KM 148). I couldn't find it on my map, so opted to a bus to Sololá (Q3), where I changed to Panajachel (Q3). That works out well. I got to walk around Solola for a bit. A concert was in full swing at the central park. 
Walked down to a children's play area (didn't see a kid) to take photos of the lake from this high. The town feels more genuine. Not too touristy. Quite easy to hop on another bus going down to the lake. Passed a waterfall (to the left). Sit on the right side for view of the lake. Very pretty. Both these buses were not full. I started to feel like on a vacation now.Arrived at Panajachel just past 2pm.
Walked to waterfront along the most commercial road. It turns out that the waterfront is even more commercialized. Tons of vendors and restaurants. Smoke and loud music. The view is superb: 3 volcanos (San Pedro 3020m=9908', Atitlan 3535m=11598', Toliman 3158m=10361') grace the southern shore. The lake is a filled caldera. Steep green hills all around. Very pretty. But too tacky and noisy. Lake cruise is only Q10, but blasts loud music. Lots of touts trying to get you on their boats. November is not high season yet. I cannot imagine what this will be in December. 
Cross the parking area and the creek to the left (east) is quieter, and the right end of town is also acceptable. Locals live inland, north of the bus terminal (there's a nice old church there). Waterfront is all catered to tourism. I checked out a few hotels here. One that publishes $45 lets me have the room for only Q150. I also found a decent one for only Q100, with 2 double beds, and ensuite bathroom. For the convenience of the hike tomorrow, I decided to go to San Pedro La Laguna.San Pedro public launcha (Q25) is on the west end of town. Much quieter. Asked about San Pedro, and was told to wait. Contrary to what I read online, I was told that the first boat leaves at 7:30am. I waited for maybe 15 minutes, and we left the dock with about a dozen passengers, maybe half of its capacity. The lake was a bit choppy (~3:30pm). Don't fill your stomach before the crossing. Very pleasant ride. Direct, about 30 minutes. Breezy, unlike the stiff and smoky air on the shore. At the dock in San Pedro, a lot of tuk-tuks. The short steep main road is lined with travel agencies. I turned left for water front street.
Checked into the first hotel I inquired. Q75. A small room with a peekaboo view of the lake, and private shower. I then walked about a bit, exchanged $20 for Q134, walked to the waterfront. People are swimming and fishing here. No beach really. This area is full of gringos. The local community is more inland, up the hill about 10 minute walk. Picked 2 fallen oranges, later found out why no one picked them.
After shower, washed my pants, tossed away my dirty shirt, and hung the laundry up on the roof deck, where I sat for sunset, and typing this blog, all by myself. Ate the now washed loquat, tasted just like I remembered. Haven't seen them in the states. Yes, a vacation indeed.Reading online about tomorrow's hike. Saw this guy hiked up San Pedro for sunrise, starting at 2:45am. Um...
11/20, day 3, Monday. Up at 6am. Sun rose behind the clouds. By the time I went up to the roof, the red hues were gone. The peak of all the volcanoes were in clouds. I don't have a plan B. So, checked out. Walked to the junction. Saw 2 tuk-tuks. Diego, in his official vest asked me if I were going to hike Volcan San Pedro. He introduced himself and jumped into the tuk-tuk with me. Tuk-tuk (Q10, 10min) to TH of (~1700m). As we approached the trailhead, Diego asked me for Q100.
At the office, he handed money to a guy there. Made me sign in at the register. Pointed out a few warnings, like not pick anything. There are bamboo sticks to borrow for free. Pick one (or 2) that's a bit higher than your shoulder. Very light. Good view of the volcano from here. Top is 3020m, but the trail only goes up to the west rim, maybe 2950m. Still, ~4000' in 2.5 mile. Steep. But not difficult. 
I started ~6:45am, reached the end ~10:15am. The trail is well maintained and feels. I was worried about robbery that I read online, so was glad to have a local guide (price included in the park entrance). Maybe because I was too slow. Not enough sugar in my blood yet. Diego was discouraging. He went down after ~30 minutes. I took time to rest and took many photos of flowers along the way. 1st mirador is 1 mile @2100m, nice 2 story hut, has benches and toilet. Before that, saw a guy zipping past me (he'll overtake me again later, while on his 2nd round trip). 
2nd mirador is 500' more, has a swing, and a toilet. Yes, I tried the swing. At 2400m, there's a bench. Met a guy hiking down. He started at 5am. Saw a runner down at 9:09 (the same guy who passed me at 8), then a couple with a guide at 9:20, 1 guy at 9:29, 1 girl at 9:31, a couple with guide at 9:33. 
Later, there's a shelter and a stone building with some sweeping tools, maybe cooking facility. The trail goes down a little, then picks up again. I met more people going down. Once you hit the rim, it becomes flat. 
End of the trail has a big sign, some trash bins. Lots of markings on the rock. View of the lake is outstanding. But Volcano Atitlan and Toliman were in the cloud. I was in and out of clouds for the first 5 minutes here. Not cold. I just put on my fleece even though I brought a shell and a down vest upon reading the reviews. Scrambled a few rocks going a bit higher, but the view isn't better. You can see the true summit on the way here. It's overgrown, and looks still far. I took photos and ate my bread. My solitude didn't last long. I was only half way to my 2nd bread, a guide and 3 girls showed up. 
So I went down. Now passing more people. Going down isn't much faster. My hands were holding the bamboo hiking pole so much, they hurts. Overall about 3:30 hour up, 1:50 down. Saw a park employee cutting a log close to the rim, and an errand dog close to the top. Do I recommend this hike? No. Not much view along the way. Trail is strenuous, feels man made. There are trash here and there (not a lot). The view at the top is nice, but I've seen better. Still I'm glad I did, and it can be done independently. It's a good but expensive workout.
After using the flush toilet at the office, I hopped on a tuk-tuk. But the driver wants to wait for more passengers.
So I walked to the town. 30 minutes. After a short road walk, I picked up a trail going to the town, passing some houses and more coffee trees. A lot of trash all over the place, until the main roads. The town square is small, and I don't like its walls. Picked up my luggage from the hotel and asked about the 1pm shuttle to Antigua (advertised in every agency). Was told none. So I went to the dock waiting for the boat. On the boat, saw a young guy with 3 bags and a guitar. One is a T&T shopping bag, so I asked if he's from Vancouver. Answer is no. I saw his snorkel mask, and he said you'll see a lot of trash under the water. I like these boat crossing. At 1pm, it's equally choppy. More wind today. Going back to Antigua this time is 4 buses. Even though all the connections were smooth, it was tiring. I arrived at Antigua bus terminal ~5:15.
Overnight in Antigua at Flor's Guesthouse. It's a dump, don't ever stay here. I dropped my packs and went out to eat. Found a supermarket, bought a beer and toothbrush. As I was wandering around the town checking out all the opened business, I saw Steve waiting in front of a reception desk. Said hi to him and his girlfriend. They gave me a tip on where to find comida tipica. It's sad that most restaurants here are Americanized fast food, plus international cuisine.
Repack for Honduras tomorrow.
