

Volterra is a tiny walled Etruscan city, perched high on a hill. Much colder than its neighbors. Cobble streets, medieval piazza, decorated for the holidays.

Free parking can be found right outside the wall.
Napoleon spent 10 months in 1814 just off a hill top at Portoferraio on the Island of Elba before he escaped. It's a short but steep walk from the port, which is lined with restaurants and boutiques. Unfortunately it was closed on Tuesday. Breezy, yet much warmer than the inland. With many sandy beaches and unspoiled green hills, it seems quite popular with the Italians, certainly a pleasant place for exile.

Portoferraio is a smooth 1-hour ferry ride from Piombino, whose downtown is a couple of Km's away, making this stop inconvenient without a car. Train and bus services are infrequent: twice daily by bus to Florence / Massa Marittima / Grosseto / Pisa; the main train station serves Pisa and Grosseto, but requires a 30-minute connecting local service. Parking is free just a few hundred meters off the maritime terminal which also serves ferries to Sardinia. Out of the two companies that go to Elba, I prefer Toremar to Moby Lines as the latter is too stuffy and dark inside, and also charged me a bunch of unknown fees. Both a little over €10.

Siena
Once a major counter force of Florence, now a sprawling city with as big a population as 700 years ago.



This picturesque Cistercian ruin set in a relatively isolated grassy hilltop. The nearby small chapel built around the rock into which St. Galgano's thrusted his sword in 1180, (did he know King Arthur?) has a couple of faded frescoes and a unique but crude dome with concentric circles.
About an hour drive (~30 Km) S.W. of Siena. Take highway towards Grosseto from Siena, turn right for Monticiano. Go pass the town, heading towards Florence for 2-3 Km, turn left for San Galgano. Ignore the sign of "parking for San Galgano" in Monticiano. I followed that, and walked 2Km muddy trail until hitting a river where the bridge was withdrawn. After wading through the water, you can imagin how surprised I was at seeing 20+ cars right on the other side of the abbey. A group of friendly Italians took a 4Km detour to give me a ride back to Monticiano. One might be able to take a bus (twice daily, line 59? or 77?) from Siena to Massa Marittima, which stops at nearby Palazzetto.


Birthplace of Puccini, of course the holiday celebration involves opera arias. The city was celebrating his 180th birthday. Almost every evening a concert was held at 6pm at San Giovanni, the first cathedral of Lucca dated to 12th century, with faded frescoes and ornate ceiling. It no longer holds service, but offers a portal to the Roman Lucca under the floor.
Paid parking around the wall, slightly off, free parking for 2 hrs. Train station is just south of the wall, easy and frequent connection to Pisa.