Milan is a vibrant city inhabited by real locals, despite large amount of tourists (some just to use the airport, most are here shopping), orderly, fashionable.It is here in 313, Constantine I and Licinius issued Edict of Toleration for Christianity.
Milan's Duomo is absolutely amazing. The # of spires and statues are mind boggling. To better appreciate this, take the elevator €8 or walk €5 (at the opposite end of the cathedral) up to the top. Even though the roof terrace was closed due to the freezing weather, this is a must do to get up and close, to be overwhelmed. One of the largest in the world, built from 1386 until Napoleon. Just look at the 5 giant front doors, each from a different era. 5 naves, divided by 40 pillars, each guarded by a saint statue on top. Magnificent stain glass windows, paintings on walls, and tombs under foot. €1 to the crypt should be avoided. Across the west end (close to the main entrance), a brass line on the floor functions as a sundial installed in 1786. Signs of zodiac were probably added later. A nail from Christ's cross is supposed to be hanging high somewhere. Canals (some still left - Naviglio: a nice neighborhood) were dug to reach river Ticino, then to Lake Maggiore, in order to transport the marbles quarried Candoglia mountains near Novara.
A major tourist attraction is Last Supper by Da Vinci in Santa Maria delle Grazie. Da Vinci's fading fresco and another less faded were the only thing to see for €6.5, for 15 minutes, no more no less. The visit is by reservation only, up to a 15 minute slot, each allows 25 spectators. Now, all reservation is filled to 2-3 weeks ahead. In summer time, maybe months ahead. But on a snowy day like this, plenty cancellation for anyone to squeeze in. What a disappointment (even though I expected to be disappointed)! The church itself is quite lovely.San Ambrogio named after Milan's patron saint San Ambrose. Also reconstructed after WWII bombing, this retained its Lombardy perfection, using salvaged original materials. Charming columned portico, dated to the 15th century. Most part appeared Romanesque (various redesigns in 9-11th century. The remain of its first basilica dated to late 300s. San Ambrose together St. Gervasius and Protasius are sleeping in a glass case.
San Satino, buried among busy shopping street: via Torino. It is dedicated to Saint Satyrus, confessor and brother of Saints Ambrose. Check out the interior dome.
Brera (€5, closed on Mondays like all other museums ) is a minor disappointment. The building looks like a construction site. Each room has information brochures under a sign in both English and Italian "Please return here", but the brochures are all in Italian. The only Raphael is being restored. At least they are nice enough to enclose part of the exhibition room with glass panels, so you can see it. Hayez' Il Bacio is also prominently advertised. Many paintings here are of monumental scale.Castello Storzesco, a 15 th century castle. The splendid grounds open daily, as is the information office. Now 5 museums occupy various buildings inside the wall. Behind it is a large city park and another Napoleon's arch, a peace arch. At the moment, 2 ice inclines were set for kids to learn ski. Loudspeakers were cranked high.
Manzoni's house is closed on all holidays, weekends and Mondays (so Jan 3th - 6th).
Milan seems to be a shopping haven. Everyone was carrying colored gift bags. The Galleria is gorgeous, connecting Piazza del Duomo and Piazza della Scala. It's almost inevitable to pass through it a few times a day. The entire glass dome was glittering with blue lights. Under it, a small crowd was circling around the Turin Bull. Piazza della Scala was "adorned" with 4 giant red Medusa-like clay heads. The streets around that and Duomo are lovely for walking. The wide pedestrian street, via Dante, between Cordusio and the castle was full of people and their shopping bags. Most foreigners go to Quadrilatero d'Oro - 4 adjoining streets north of Duomo: Via Montenapoleone, Della Spiga, Via Borgospesso, and Via Sant'Andrea, lined with Milan's most expensive high-fashion emporia.
Snow started falling Monday (Jan 5th) evening, continued until the evening of Jan 7th. All flights were canceled! Painfully slow lines at the airport to rebook all seats, at the same time, airport services were shutting down.
€7 bus to the airport (or €12 return) by bus from the central train station. 1 hour journey. Every 20 minutes. €11 by train. Urban transportation is €1 for 70 minutes, €3 for a day, €5.5 for two days. Very reasonable.
More varieties of food. Cheap too, especially wine and cheese. I saw wine started at 97c in a supermarket.
