Tipped the Enterprise employee who drove us to the Greenmotion car rental (~1 mile away). There's a long queue. They have the cheapest rate. $17/day for an economy car, tax and fee included. No indoor seating, hower, there is restroom inside. Finally, ~noon, we picked up a car for the next 8 days (total would be ~half of what the van costed for 3 days). Wanted to extend for a day, but they wouldn't give us the same rate. Didn't buy insurance this time, because it's covered by Visa Signiture cards (not cargo van).
After restocking groceries at Aldi nearby, we drove towards Fort Williams.
Stopped at Loch Lomond for lunch, at the turn to the town of Luss.
A few cars were ready for their watersports.
Chatted with a New Zealand couple who also walked here for their sandwich.
Loch Lomond is very large, with many named and unnamed islands.
The view is similar to the Lake District, a bit less people. Bigger lakes.
This neighborhood is called Aldochlay. Many of these cottages are for rent.
The owner of this house by the boat launch was tending his garden bursting with colors.
Continued driving. Once near Bridge of Orchy, the scenery improved greatly.
Many pullouts for photos.
We stopped at Loch Tulla Viewpoint and another pullover.
At Three Sisters viewpoint, we made a long stop. 2 large parking lots.
It's beautiful here. Sweeping valley with 3 tall "ben"s, each taller than whatever in England.
I walked down to the river, a bit boggy sometimes. Not worth the effort. The view is better from the highway.
Quite many trails here. Not sure which ones people are doing.
I can see myself roaming these hills for a few days.
West Highland Way (another long distance path, which PS suggested us doing when we were planning the trip) passes here (Kingshouse stop). We saw some backpackers.
Glencoe ski area seems quite lively, but we didn't go into the town.
West of Glencoe, the scenary lost the drama, more mellow now.
We stopped at St John's Scottish Episcopalian Church. Church itself is closed.
More water, 2 inlets, quite some homes. We drove over the bridge, through part of Fort Williams. Very busy. No Vacancy signs everywhere.
Drove to the Ben Nevis visitor center. It was closed (open 8-4). You have to buy a parking permit in the visitor center. The payment machines are all wrapped up ==> problem.
Turned right to Glen Nevis campground.
It's very big. At least they have tent space.
Very well run.
£62 for 2 people 2 nights with a car.
Free hot shower, free wifi (weak), charging locks (all occupied, all the time), laundry facilities (good price: £1 for 20 minutes).
Clean bathrooms. Many drinking sprouts. Large recycle bins.
6/3 Saturday, summit Ben Nevis - the tallest mountain in UK.
Up at 4:45am. Met PS at the car (I pitched my tent farther at a corner) for breakfast at 5am. Boiled water for coffee for PS, quick oats for me. I dumped a cheese package in my breakfast oat. Ate an apple and a mandarin. PS is quicker than me, and he left for the trail around 5:30. When I left the campground, it was already 6:08. Trailhead at 6:19. Summit at 9:06.
This trail is terribly busy, even at this early hour.
Army of groups of young people, maybe on some charity race.
Not a pleasant hike.
Trail is again over engineered:
well laid steps in the lower half, and wide gravel upper half.
I carried 3L of water, gave 1L to PS when I met him.
The higher reach is very rocky. I cut a few zigzags there.
Very happy to see some snow, so I stepped into it, instead of around it.
Saw a lady with a full pack here. I chatted her. She's German.
She was hoping to cut into West Highland Way from here instead of going down the same way.
Unlikely.
I didn't like the crowded summit, which has a fallen old stable, a shelter, and a lot of trash inside, and a constructed tower where everyone was trying to take a selfie.
At least it's very large and flat here, so can easily spread out.
I headed down, alone. To my surprise, before I got down to the saddle, at an info station, met one guy coming up. I inquired where he started his hike: North Face Car Park. I sat behind it for shade and took a food break. I had mushroom+meat pate. Another guy was running his drone, and his dog ran over to me, as soon as I got the pate out.
I continued on the ridge (Càrn Mòr Dearg Arête), seeing more and more hikers coming my way. I talked to a couple of them, they are all doing a loop from North Face. The ridge scramble is fun, but somewhat slow going, and hands are helpful occasionally. There's a trail here, so an easy scramble.
By the time I got to the summit of Càrn Mòr Dearg (1220m), it was already 11:16.
A few hikers were resting here.
I inquired which way I shall go down.
Heather (who sent me these photos) said if I like solitude, my original plan of heading to Steal Falls is better, and also very pretty.
They just came up that way, and didn't see anyone.
She also said that if my timing is good, her husband (Mike) can give me a ride, because they are hiking the exactly same route in the opposite direction of mine, and parked a bike at one end, and car at the other.
She also told me about a pool to swim in.
Extremely nice couple. I also consulted with the husband of my hiking plans in Skye.
I was told it'd be very crowdy too.
I sat down to eat my 2nd lunch, after they left for Ben Nevis. I poured a litre of water from the Sawyer bag into my Nalgene bottle. Unfortunately, the bottle fell after I filled it. Lost all my water. One guy offered me water. Even though I said I'd be fine, and had a filter with me. He insisted on pouring me some water. How nice.
I headed down to the valley of Allt (creek?) Coire Giubhsachan.
On the way down, I saw 3 people total. I believe they came from Aonach Mòr.
Once in the Allt Coire Giubhsachan valley, I encountered no one at all.
It's really pretty. Quite some white fluffy seeds. Grassy, green, A little boggy.
Tried to filter water. My filter seemed blocked. Took a long time to sqeeze water.
I found the pool Heather mentioned, and stripped to take a dip.
Ate my 3rd lunch while drying myself. Not much sun yet.
The creek and trail goes to Glen Nevis.
After this bridge, I started to see more people.
At Steall Falls, a tent, kids playing water.
I tried the rope bridge (steel cables).
Turn right, and follow the main trail to the road.
The green valley turns into a narrow gorge choked with big boulders as the trail goes to the parking lot.
Quite many cars.
Then I walked the road. It was hot (sunny), unpleasant.
Tried to hitch a ride, 2 cars passed me.
Then I saw Mike peddling his bike uphill, drenched in sweat, red face.
I asked if I could catch a ride with him: "of course", as he zipped by me.
I continued walking.
About a mile later, his RV pulled next to me, and I climbed in.
He said that July is the wet month, Sept and Oct are not bad.
They live east side of these mountains, so drier.
The road is longer than I expected: 5 miles.
He dropped me off right at the campground office.
Heather was waiting there. Thank you both!
Before I got off their truck, I wrote down my email address.
Back at tent. PS was resting on his poncho. He brought me a beer. Thank you! Cleaned up, washed everything I was wearing, clipped to my clothes line to dry in the sun.
Today 40k steps, ~13 miles, 5400'. If you only do Ben Nevis in and out, it'd be ~9 miles, 4300'.
6/4, Sunday. Heading to Isle of Skye today.
Up early (it gets bright ~4am), but waited our tents to dry before leaving. £26.22 topped gas at Fort Williams ~9am.
Leaving Fort Williams, on to A87, all along quite pretty, but not dramatic as around Glencoe.
We stopped at this Commando Memorial, to look back to Ben Nevis.
More open sky, large lakes: Loch Garry, Loch Loyne, Loch Cluanie, Loch Duich, Loch Alsh.
The last one, Loch Alsh is more like a bay.
At the west end of Loch Duich is Eilean Donan Castle.
Beautiful setting. We took a photo from their busy parking lot.
It's so pretty, that we stopped after Loch Long Bridge to take a photo from the west side.
Last town on the mainland before the mile long plain looking Skye Bridge (1995) is aptly named little town of Kyle of Lochalsh.
There's a castle ruin, but not seems accessible.
Onwards to Isle of Skye.
