Monday, June 12, 2023

2023.6.10-12 Central Scotland #2: Falkirk - Lilinthgow

6/10, the car is due today by noon at Glasgow Airport. After Stirling, we made our last stop at Falkirk to witness an engineering oddity in actoin: Falkirk Wheel. It's a rotating boat lift, the only one in the world. It raises boats from the historical (1790) Forth and Clyde Canal 24m, where it'll go through 2 more locks to meet the Edinburg and Glasgow Union Canal, both I'll visit later. We waited for the tour boat to get on the turn, but it took too long. PS drove out to return the car, and I stayed behind. He'd continue to Eidinburg and fly home ahead of me. I waited until the wheel finished its turn. It was interesting and slow.

Afterwards, I took bus 6 to Falkirk the town. £3.5. Should have bought the day pass. There, I bought a day pass £5.95 towards Bo'ness (every 30 min), where I got off at near Kinneil. Walked to Kinneil House. It's open on Saturdays only, by tour only. 1pm. The house was in the middle of demolition (when they discovered the painted walls), hence guided tour only for safety concern. Another interesting tidbit is that James Watts was working on the steam engine at a cottage here.
The ground here is fairly large, including some faint structures of the Antonine Wall, another Roman's defense line 20 years after Hadrian's Wall, but soon abandonned. There's a small museum near the entrance gate that is almost dedicated to Antonine Wall. I had never heard of this wall before.

Bus F45 every 2 hours (except Sunday) Bo'ness to Linlithgow.

Linlithgow Palace (my second favorite castle on this trip, included in the Explorer Pass, closed Sun, Mon). Mary of Scots and James V were born here. A visually stunning ruin next to Lilinthgow Loch. Who can resist the view on the top of the building!

St Michael at the gate has Sunday service at 9:30 & 11am. Closed now. The town Linlithgow looks quite handsome.

Took X38 bus (Stirling - Edinburg), got off at Laurieston, and walked to a cheap motel I found online, which works quite well. It even has a large kitchen.

6/11 Sunday. Rain dampened my ambition of sightseeing.

£7.3 Foss Valley day pass, went to Lilinthgow's St Michael for its 11am mass. I managed to squeeze in between the two services. Some nice old and new stainglass windows. More modern than I'd liked. Mary of Scots was baptised here.

11:25 bus #31 to Torphichen. Rain tapered off. Walked 1.3 miles to Cairnpapple Hill (Open weekend only, £7.50, included in the Explorer Pass). A neolith stone henge and bronze-age burial site on a small hill. No henge standing (wood), only holes are left. Stairs to go down to the center of the mound. I didn't see any other visitors.

Visited Torphichen Preceptory, headquarter of Knights Hospitaller of St John. Opens at 1pm. Again, I was the only visitor. Not a whole lot to see. I was here only because it's on the way, and it's covered in my Explorer Pass (otherwise, only £2), and I had time to kill between the buses. All the display is about the order of St John. The lady at the ticket office was trying to sell me a nicely illustrated book on St John.

2:25pm bus back (every 2 hours). I got off at Calendar Park to visit the Calendar House. Its tea room looks quite nice. The archive was closed today (also looks nice from outside, its old library). Livingston family, keeper of the king. Ford family now. An exhibition on these two families and on Antonine wall, which runs through the park, my main reason of visiting. I like the park and the mansion.

Walked (a bit far) to and looped back from Falkirk tunnel (~2 miles). This is part of the Union Canal which Falkirk Wheel was trying to connect to. The ceiling of the tunnel isn't uniform, some parts are dripping water. Didn't see any boats coming or going, only a few walkers. Picked nettles for my soup later.

Walked by Lidl, bought £7.5.

Reserved Edinburgh Castle tomorrow for the 3:30pm entry (the earlier ones were sold out). Booked 3 nights at Charing Cross Glasgow.

6/12 Tuesday. X38 every 20 min (instead of 30 on Sundays). £10 all zone McGill day pass. Linlithgow F49 to Blackness. £2.7 single.

Blackness Castle (£7.5 included in the Explorer Pass). Quite nice. Great setting. Imposing fortress on the river. Used not only as a defense, also as a prison for various ranks of "enemy". Half an hour for me to catch the return bus.

10:17 return. Arrived~10:30.