7/9, Saturday, partly sunny. I arrived at Eastgate P&R before 8am. 2 didn't show up. So, with one car, this is an up and down North Ridge. Coming down north side is slower, but I'm glad that I didn't need to lug my backpack up to the summit, or wait for car shuttle (1.5 - 2 hrs). It's a 3.5 hour drive to Killen Creek TH. We made a Safeway stop where Z bought lunch, and I bought an English cucumber. We ate lunch inside the car at the TH, then geared up inside the car. Too many mosquitoes outside! Before we headed out, my hiking friend from Oregon, O, arrived with her climbing partner du jour R, in R's car. She forgot to bring my gaiters :(
Killen Creek trail starts off in the mosquito clouds (elevation ~4600') onto the flat sandy trail. Make sure you don't walk behind a dog (who usually would kick up a lot of dust). Quite some beargrass along the trail, but non blooming (or done blooming). The first 3 miles to PCT is very gradual or flat, gaining ~1500'. Snow started halfway there. Easy to lose the trail that's buried under snow. Saw many avalanche lilies (only few blooming, too early) as we approach Killen Creek Meadow. Not many mosquitoes here.
We routed to the right of a rocky hill to High Camp, where the terrain is more gradual. By then it was all snow. I'm surprised to find some grassy "islands" in the snow at High Camp (~6900'), and running water. A large group recently arrived. Its members scattered about looking for camp sites. They came in from Divide Camp TH, and they would also climb the north ridge tomorrow.
Reached Glacier Lake (~7500') shortly after 4pm. Some Jacob's Ladder blooming.
There're quite a few established campsites on its eastern shore, with semi-circlular rock walls. The lake was melted on the edge. The water is glacier fed, so quite silty.
After washing, setting up my tent with extra guy-line, and many rocks resting on my stakes (due to the wind, not too bad though), I walked to Z's camp for early dinner.
Z buried 2 cans of beer in the snow when we first arrived. Dinner with cold beer. 9.5%! I centainly felt it when I stood up.
I then followed O and R up to the base of Adams Glacier. The glacier is rather broken, full of cravasses.
R went up to the top of a rocky hill instead. He reported that his phone had signal up there.
Before I even reach the base, the clouds moved in. For a moment or two, it was whiteout.
I retreated to my tent, and retired early.
This photo of my tent was taken on Sunday after the climb.
This sunset photo was curtousy of O. By then, I was asleep.
I woke up in the middle of the night many times, not sure if I was cold or what.
It was a bit windy outside, I didn't even venture out to see the stars.
7/10, Sunday, sunny. 4:30am alarm clock. My hike leader wanted to start at 5am.
It was bright enough. A bit chilly, and I kept on my long sleeping wear both top and bottom.
We took the snow instead of rocks towards the North Ridge.
The snow was solid. We put on crampons.
Then it was a scree field, not steep with some vegetation (saw goats here yesterday, and later on our way back).
It was very pretty with the sea of clouds below us. Ste Helens, Rainier and Goat Rocks behind.
The ridge is rock scramble, both loose and solid rocks. Sometimes steep. Alternating left and right side of the ridge. One spot was a bit tricky.
We had to put on crampons and take them off twice along the ridge, when snow was the better option.
Left is a photo with the Mazamas group ahead putting on crampons. They are a large group (7-8 climbers). We soon passed them.
Righ is O's photo of R on the way down.
I made a mistake of refilling my water bottle on the rocks (because I was afraid that the rocks may puncture my sawyer pouche), and my bottle tipped, and lost all 1L of water.
It was somewhat windy, so even though I wasn't sweating, I felt dry-mouthed, needing to drink.
With less of 1L water left, I refilled with snow after it warmed up.
I had my rain jacket on. Z had to wait for me, since he's much faster, he put on his puffy!
He gave me his mittens to wear. Many thanks.
Here's the last bit of the rocks, where we switched yet again on crampons. O and R were right behind us. This is O's photo.
The snow slope was steep-ish first, and gradually eases.
Near the top, it was flat. Sulfur smell intensified near this peak to the west.
~11:25, I reached the summit. It is underwhelming.
So flat, it's hard to tell which is taller, the true summit to the left or the bump (house) to the right.
Walked west to sit under the "house" (completely buried) for some wind protection.
I ate 2 energy bars and some dried fruit, watching a string of hikers/skiers coming up from the south.
Z didn't eat anything. We didn't stay long. Headed back north ~11:45.
Snow was softer on our way out. After the top snow cap, we only put on crampons once.
Some goats/sheep on the scree field not far from the lake. Back to the camp ~3:20.
Changed (took off layers). O and R soon returned as well.
Marched out at 4pm. We took to the trail this time from High Camp down. Quite some phlox here. Steeper to follow the trail. I glissaded 2 very small sections.
Around PCT, we got off trail (unintentionally) for awhile.
Reached TH ~6:40pm.
Tons of mosquitoes again.
Just changing socks and shoes, I got ~5 bites (I had on long pants and long sleeves).
While driving out, the first half an hour, I was killing mosquitoes inside the car.
We took one short break on the drive back. Z dropped me off at my building ~10:30pm. A strenuous and rewarding weekend.
