7/18, Saturday. Sunny, warm, 79°F. Non-stop traffic along I-5 from Tacoma to JBLM - already pre-Covid traffic. A bathroom stop (not able to fill water) and a gas stop by I-5. Made a photo stop at Elk Rock viewpoint. Not sure which one is the Elk Rock. Lots of white daisy, all along Spirit Hwy. Certainly non-native, if not invasive, but still very pretty. We started ~2pm at Johnston Ridge Observatory. The large parking lot was 3/4 full. The visitor center is closed (due to Covid), so no access to the restroom. I was wary about our water situation: only ~2L.
The flowers along Johnston Ridge were very good. Lots of paintbrush. Not much lupine. Met one ranger on the trail, who informed us there were goats where we were heading. Once turned to Truman Trail, we left the crowd behind. Saw two couples coming up with large backpacks. Flowers were a little disappointing. Significantly less than last year, especially dwarf lupine.
To make this hike different from last July, we headed to Loowit Falls (7 miles from the observatory). I remembered a lush stream along Loowit Trail, but not remembering where exactly. Spent extra effort at two junctions (@Loowit Falls spur, and @Willow Spring trail) looking for it, to no avail. A little west on Loowit Trail from Willow Spring has a good view of Lower Loowit Falls. Finally on the way back, we refilled water at the spring near the junction of Willow Spring + Herman Trail. The water is clear and cool. Drank it without filtering.
Back to Johnston Ridge, already past 8pm. The yellow hawkweed were closed already. I was hoping to catch sunset with the flowers, but I was tired and slow, my toes hurt (the boots I had on are more for snow/ice). Finally found a patch of flowers still lit. Most flowers on the ridge were already in the shadow. But the mountain looked radiant in the setting sun. I went straight to the parking lot, and watched the sun dipped under the horizon there. About 10 cars left. Some folks were relaxing in canvas chairs watching the sunset.After a belated dinner, we admired the night sky reflected in Coldwater Lake. Stars were brilliant. The brightest ones glittered in the water. Clear Milky Way. Very pretty and peaceful. A few mosquitoes, but not too bad.
7/19, Sunday. Hot (81°F?). Did a different take to Coldwater Peak. We started at South Coldwater Trail (no access to lake) ~8am. We carried 5L water. I ate half an SOS emergency bar for breakfast. I miscalculated the calorie - was lack of energy all day.
The trail starts in thin (birch?) forest, plenty shade for the first mile or so, relatively cool. Lots of white daisy. The yellow hawkweed were still closed. Saw a couple hiking out with large packs. Once on the ridge (gentle incline), you have great view of the lake, and gradually, you could see St.Helens. There, you'd also find rusted logging machines here and there, as well as tons of white (daisy) and yellow (hawkweed). Then the trail goes to the back side of the ridge, obscuring Helens, but opens to the north. More paintbrushes here. Soon past the trail junction (left goes down to the lake) is Ridge Camp (~4 miles in). It is a large sandy area with many flowers around. Great view, but no water. Soon, we saw a deer. He didn't shy away, just looked at us. The trail surface is nicer here, not as rocky as yesterday.The trail gains more elevation to the north ridge under Blastzone Butte. Very good view here. Saw a couple of people on top. The trail rounds the butte without gaining much elevation until a pass of ~4600', where Helens is back in view. Then the trail slowly gains elevation to just below the western ridge of Coldwater Peak.
I decided to go up there, instead of continuing to Boundary Trail, and follow it to the peak from the NE side (at least 2 miles). Going up the saddle of the west ridge is fairly simple. Plenty boot or elk tracks. At the saddle, there's a clear path along the ridge. I followed it, going up east. But soon one track becomes 2 and more, and later no tracks. I reached the base of the rocks of Coldwater Peak. Unable to scale it, I decided to find some shade and rest before going down. I was so close to the peak that I could actually hear voice. After my shade disappeared, and well rested, I rounded the south side a bit lower, and eventually scrambled onto the trail. When I reached the top, I found my partner has left me a bandana as a mark. There was a group of 3 hikers. One asked me if I were with someone. I took this photo, and headed down the normal trail. The view is stupendous here. A lot of tiny flies at the northern end. Hundreds of them covered my white shirt in a few seconds. Thankfully, as soon as I left that particular rock, the bugs left me. According to Caltopo, it's 3550' up and 410' down, and 6.9 miles to reach here. I've cut ~1.5 miles.
Almost running down the trail, hoping to catch up. Met 2 other hikers conveying my partner's message. We finally reconvened under Blastzone Butte. Between Boundary Trail and South Coldwater trail, we didn't see anyone. 
By then, the yellow hawkweed along South Coldwater Trail were all opened. White and yellow covering all the slopes. I don't know which direction to take a photo. This carpet of flowers goes on for a mile of so, makes you want to sing "Sound of Music". Met ~ 10 hikers, and a dog (illegal) here. ~10 cars in the parking lot. Drove to the boat launch at Coldwater Lake. Lots of cars, and lots of kids playing in the lake, a few kayaks. The restroom here is handy to clean up after a hike. ~3pm.Uneventful on the drive back. Hit traffic in JBLM and Tacoma. Protest warning on display above I-5 near downtown Seattle. ~80°F in town.
Step count: Saturday ~40K, Sunday ~36K.
