Monday, September 16, 2019

2019.9.16. Yukon in 9 Days. Part 3/5 - Keno City

Day 5, 9/16, Monday. Smoke has largely gone in town. Inquired about road closure at the visitor center. The young lady there who was dressed in period costume suggested Keno City and its Signpost Hill. So there we went, armed with a detailed brochure of a self guided tour.

First, drove to Midnight Dome viewpoint. Excellent view of the confluence of Klondike River into Yukon River. We were, maybe 2 weeks too late, for the best color. The better half of the leaves of paper birch had fallen, so less golden on the branches, but very golden on the ground.

Next, we visited briefly Beaver Creek Historical Complex, a Park Canada branch. Now closed for the season. Some period buildings with demo if open.

Stopped by Air North counter, hoping to remove the first leg of my baddie's return flight tomorrow to Whitehorse, because I decided to drive to Whitehorse, due to the rainy forecast for the rest of the week west of the St Elias mountain range. Instead of my original plan of visiting Wrangell-St Elias N.P. to Kluane N.P. No luck at the ticket counter. I really don't understand why airlines don't let you abandon one leg of your connection. Save them fuel and hassle.

As we approached Stewart Crossing, it got more smoky, despite of the light rain. The rocky roadside by the bridge is full of graffiti. The one hut visitor center was already boarded up for the season. Outhouse next door.

Now on the Silver Trail to Mayo. All paved. Mayo is a small town, by Stewart River. Still light rain. Liquor store was closed. Bought some grocery. The only motel in town was full. Checked into Rimrock Inn east of the town, managed by the First Nation cooperative. The Manager has a Scottish accent.

The pavement stops soon after Mayo. Scenery gets better: more mountainous. Saw a coyote trotting along the road. Passed the defunct mining town of Elsa, access road blocked.

Keno is a town of population 12. Quite a few more rundown buildings, all in the little brochure, but don't look as good in real life. The best looking building is Corp/Ryan Cabin, an adjoined cabin duplex for partner and friends Ernest Corp and David Ryan. Now a public event space of the mining museum. We arrived at 5pm, everything was closed except for the "hotel", whose bar was open. The mining museum is supposed to be a good visit, which has multiple buildings, one has an outdoor mural of Ken's early days based on archival photos. It houses a Keystone diamond drill, an overburden drill, a portable sawmill, early excavators, transportation machinery and metal smith tools.

Drove to Signpost Hill. The 11Km road is quite rutted, slow going in my economic rental car. On the way saw a mining site in operation. The scenery gets better as we get higher. There's no one else here. United Keno Hill Mines erected the original wooden signpost in the 1950s, when they hosted a group of visiting scientists for the International Year of Geophysics. Each sign names a city represented by a delegate at the symposium, and shows the location's distance and direction from Keno. Next to the signpost is a memorial to Alfred Schellinger, a mining engineer, assayer and geologist, who first came to the district to inspect Bouvette's new discoveries on behalf of Yukon consolidated Gold Corporation. He staked the Keno claim on what became known as Keno Hill on July 29, 1919. We stopped the car a bit beyond due to bad road, and walked to the end. Many trails and tracks crisscross, many claims. Great view of the surrounding hills despite of the clouds. There's even a dilapidated cabin here, which we walked through! Wandered around for about an hour. Quite chilly here.

Drove back to Mayo for the night. On the way, not a bad sunset at Five Mile Lake around 8pm.

Researching hikes in Kluane National Park well into the night. Found http://yukonhiking.ca/ to be the most useful, which includes hikes in the neighboring areas in BC and Alaska. I saved some hikes in Kluane and Haines Pass south of Kluane.