11/19, Arrived at Ocosingo ~7:30pm. Some of the passengers were transferred to different van to San Cristobal. I walked downhill towards the town center. I had marked down hotels on my offline map last night. So just checking them out one at a time. Settled into the 2nd one off the center plaza. As luck had it, it then poured. So I didn't go out.
11/20, day 5, Tuesday. Revolution Day. Checked out the town. A nice leafy central plaza. Interesting church alter. Went east to Mercado Belizario-Dominguez by the peripheral to check out local transportation. Nothing centralized (the collectivos and the fruit vendors). All along the streets. Bought tamales, bananas, avocados and bread. The town square was preparing for a celebration. Loads of policemen.
After breakfast, I got on a collectivo for Tonina - the reason I stayed for a night here. No seats in the van, but benches. M$15, packed full before leaving. The driver still stopped to pick up 2 more passengers who had to stand. It's good to be short in these countries. Half of the van got off at Tech University of Jungle. The last few miles, I was the only person on board. I began to wonder how I would return to town, if no one else comes out here.
At 9:30am, I was the first tourist today. M$60. Even though the park opens at 8, the museum was closed when I walked by. A guide engaged me with his service. Since my Spanish is so bad, I cannot learn much from him. Later another guide, as well as a pre-teen boy tried to sell me their service. None speaks English. After that I was left alone. I really like it here. No jungle. Very pastoral. Farm fields around with occasional houses. Two restaurants near the entrance, but none calling out for your attention. The temple here is very high. Great 360° view. I had it all to myself. There's an equally high mount next to the one I was on, covered with trees and grasses. Probably another temple under the surface?
When I headed down the temple, I encountered the 2nd tourist of the day, all by herself, holding a camera. Later, I saw a family in the ball court with a guide. That's all the tourists it gets all morning. As I exited the site, the museum was open. Quite small, but an interesting building. This plaque is marked as 10 Baktún, 4 Katún, 0 Tun, 0 Winal, 0 Kin/day (909CE Jan 18th) - the very last date registered in the acropolis of Toniná, also the last date in the high lands. Bathroom next door, was open since my arrival. I sat on the long bench by the road to wait for some return transportation. Two men were chatting, one looked like a gringo. When a truck pulled over, unloaded its contents, everyone there asked Ocosingo, and pointed me to the truck. So I got on. I probably waited for only 5 min. The truck picked more passengers along the way. At Ocosingo market, he asked for $13, apparently a standard fare.
Picked up my bag from the hotel. Walked west uphill to hwy 199. Workers shouting incessantly to catch potential passengers. Next to where I got off yesterday, all the men in pink dress shirt yelled San Cristobal, all the men in blue dress shirt yelled Palenque. $80 shared taxi. Had to wait till the car is full (3 in the back, 1 in front). As soon as we got out of the town, we stopped for one guy to use the restroom. Otherwise smooth sailing. The driver was aggressive, but safe enough. Mountainous winding road. Saw pine trees with long drooping needles.