Monday, March 05, 2018

2018.2.28-3.5 Baja California Sud: Cabo San Lucas + La Paz

2/28 Wednesday. Took 1 hour to get to PDX due to traffic. PDX-SJD direct 10:45 - 15:30. Baja California Sud is 1 hour ahead of Baja California which is the same as PST. At the airport, after the passport control, there're about 3 rental car desks. I didn't see Europcar, which I reserved with Expedia (which showed an address in Cabo San Lucas - that got me worried). The next room has 2 long curved counters with many travel-agent looking personnel. I asked for Europcar. Was talked into visiting Pueblo Bonito Sunset Beach Resort by a very friendly sales person. Once exited this room, I found more rental car desks and 3 ATMs. 2 dispense US$ only, 1 for Mexican Pesos. Took 4000 pesos (about $210, the highest allowable amount. Compared to another ATM receipt of 6000 peso taken in a bank in La Paz). ~5pm, we got on Europcar's shuttle to the rental pickup, which is close by (walkable in cooler weather). Then car rental is 50c/day, but insurance is expensive. Even though I bought insurance from Expedia, they wouldn't let me have a car until I bought their minimum insurance, about $25/day + tax. For my 5 day rental, the total is $147 (+$66 paid to Expedia, which is probably redundant). I was given a very crappy Chevrolet Spark. A tiny car, we can barely fit in. Manual transmission, no windshield fluid, broken blade, manual window and lock. To adjust the right side mirror, I have to ask the passenger to do that for me, because the manual control is by the passenger window. A few dents, which I insisted the guy recording it on my contract.

I didn't realize that the airport is north of San Jose de Cabo until I drove out of the rental car parking lot. It's about 40 minutes to Cabo San Lucas. Everyone drives faster than I do, even though the lane is narrower than in US. They all go 20 miles above speed limit. By the time we checked into Los Cabos Golf Resort, it was almost dark. The receptionist said I have a "welcome package", which I should call my family to review it. A nice lady sat us down, and basically trying to talk us into timeshare here. After many "no"s, finally we were let go. I rented a one-bedroom condo from Airbnb with a terrace. The property is quite nice, a swimming pool, onsite bar and restaurant, wifi in the lobby, well groomed with raked sand and flowering plants, clean. But you need a car to stay here.

Once settled, I drove to Walmart for water and some grocery. It's next door, but with all the walls, you cannot get there directly. The evening is cool and very pleasant.

Cabo San Lucas

3/1 Thursday. Drove to the resort gate around 8:20 (there are two checkpoints, so outsiders cannot get into the property), because we were supposed to be picked up at 8:30 by the airport sales guy. Someone else was waiting for us. He checked what I need to bring: the "invitation" voucher, a credit card, my US ID. Later, the airport guy showed up in a taxi van. We followed the van to Pueblo Bonito at Sunset Beach, on the other side of downtown.

After checking in, we were assigned to a sale rep, Arssén from Greece. We were seated on the balcony of the restaurant, great view of the beach and the property. He jotted down my travel preferences. We were not rushed though breakfast, but I didn't feel comfortable to take a 2nd serving. Afterwards, Arssen led us a tour of the property. After walking though the private checkin and the grand lobby, we boarded a shuttle to see demo homes. On the way, we learned that there are 7 restaurants, 9 swimming pools, a few grocery stores and bakery on site.
First is a 2 story house. The balcony of the 2nd floor has a hot tub, and a ceramic pool sits on the first floor. Nicely furnished. Furniture is said to change every 5 years, where the old one is given to the employees, and the new ones are a tax write-off.
2nd is a villa with a private swimming pool fit with a sunken bar, yes, overlooking the ocean. Lovely courtyard. All windows look out to the Pacific. Furnished like the first house.
3rd stop is an apartment building, which we were whisked through a one bedroom 2 bath condo, and a 2 bed 2 bath condo. Similar furniture.
After the tour, Arssén's boss came to sit with us. He's an American. Oh, I was told that this is an American chain headquartered in San Diego. Their goal is that I sign a 5 year contract to own a piece of the property I saw for 2 weeks (yes, you can buy 4 weeks, or more, even 100%) which agrees to let go at least 1 week/year. They like the fact that I don't plan on using my 2 weeks, so they can rent to golfers, yes, this is a golf course. In return, I will get 75% of the rent, which is about $1000/week. They can also pay me in cash or other means so I don't have to pay US tax. They emphasize that it's a "resident club" not a "time share". I don't pay maintenance fee if I don't use my property. I'm allowed to exchange to 500+ other properties in equal points for $200/week more if not in the Pueblo Bonito family. I would save money for my travel, as well as help them sell more properties to the golfers.

3 hours later, we were let go. The price of the 2 weeks ownership of a 1bd/2ba "executive suite" went from 32K down to 26K. Back at the check-in desk, we were ushered to another agent, who asked us to evaluate our sale rep. He then proposed another contract of 15 year ownership, and the price went below 10K. Finally he proposed 1 week ownership for 6-7K, all the while, I never said it was too expensive. The checkout is smooth. I got $100 cash (compensation of my rental car, which they made a copy of my rental car agreement), and 3 vouchers for the glass bottom boat to Land's End. This is my first time ever going to a time share presentation. Very interesting experience, albeit a bit too long. A good way to checkout some nice properties though.

Drove to Puerto Paradiso shopping mall to park. 20 peso for 4 hours. It's right in downtown by the mariner. Perfect location with clean bathrooms. You can pay at the machine before exiting, or just pay the guy at the exit. Walked over the mariner, and on to Medano beach to where the boats are. Same tours offered by different companies.

Had lunch at the Pueblo Bonito beach resort. Food is mediocre, they never brought my beer, but charged me anyway. View is great, not busy. Waiters are inattentive. They don't take cash! Had to pay with credit card.

At 2:30, we and 2 others board a small boat. The glass bottom is only a rectangle of ~0.5m * 1m, fogged up and dirty. The young guy who man the boat speaks English. They seem to run this every half an hour. Land's End is a short ride. It's where Sea of Cortez (gulf of California) meets Pacific Ocean. Water is low to walk to The Arch. The boat goes around, showing a snorkel site, a sea lion rock, and the beaches. Upon request, we were dropped off at Lover's Beach until the next tour. A guy waits for the boats and helps you getting off and on the boats, in return for tips. Water is colder than I expected. There were a few swimming here, most were just sunbathing on the sand. A few locals occupied a shady spot with their food and drink, which peddle. You can walk here to the Pacific side, a much larger beach called Divorce Beach. Quite pretty here.

Afterwards we walked along the beach for a bit, and then I went to fetch the car. I didn't feel like going to another beach, so just called it a day. Back to the hotel early. Walked with dad around the property a bit, and took some sunset photos.

Pack for tomorrow.

La Paz

3/2 Friday. La Paz, the capital of Baja California Sur (BCS), is about 2 hours north. Highway 19 is dry and boring. My little Spark produced concerning noice whenever I went above 90Km/hr - the speed limit. Not many cars on road, but I was passed by all of them including truck! La Paz is a sprawling and ugly city, except for the couple of blocks near Malecon. Checked into One hotel downtown. We were given a room on the 7th floor, good partial view of the waterfront, which is 6-7 blocks away.

Once settled in and had lunch, we drove to the waterfront. I was surprised to find that there's no meter here. After dropping off my parents at the kiosk, I was able to fine a good parking spot 1.5 blocks from waterfront. Inquired about tours, and walked a bit along Malecon. No shade on the waterfront side. A bit hot in the afternoon sun.

We drove to the state capitol. Not that far, but too warm to walk. What a disappointment. It looks like a telecom company. There's a statue of Benito Juarez. Large and empty square, plenty parking spaces.

Visited Jadin Velasco and Cathedral of Nuestra Senora. Both unimpressive. The garden is small, the church looks nice outside, but boring inside. There's a replica of the mushroom rock from Balandra Beach, north of La Paz.

I like the building of the Culture Center. The previous city hall how houses a cafe, the visitor center, and maybe some temp exhibitions.

Back to the hotel for sunset at the roof top pool. For dinner, we went to the Chinese restaurant downstairs. Dad is pretty happy about it. In fact, he insisted of eating here while we were in La Paz, instead of trying local cuisine.

The next 2 days were occupied by tours. We didn't like the water pressure of our hotel room, so decided to move.

3/3 Saturday. Went to the roof top for the city overview before checking out. After a good breakfast, we moved to Seven Crown by Malecon. Left luggage and the car there. The parking garage is very small, so you need to leave the car key to the front desk for them move around your car when needed.

10am snorkeling tour ($50/pp) to Isla Espiritu Santo, part of UNESCO listed Baja islands. I wore swimsuit, and took some The guy I bought the ticket from sold us to another agency, who had 2 boats going, over 15 per boat. Quite crowded. I was not happy as I had to sit facing backwards. But soon all were squared, because the youngsters wanted to sit on the bow of the boat, and freed up seats. The only problem is that we were on a boat with all Spanish speakers, and the guide's English is as bad as my Spanish, so I didn't understand much. First stop is snorkel at the little islet with the light tower. The water was pretty cold. Some got on wetsuit, but still cold. I didn't want to swim in the cold water. A few seals were lounging and playing around the little islet.
Next stop is the Frigate Bird colony. It's utterly pretty here. The birds perched on a long arm of land that almost enclosed a salt lagoon behind. Water is clean and a beautiful green. I saw a couple with red deflated pouch at their neck. The guide gave a long spiel of the bird which is beyond my language capability.
We stopped at the little coral beach (Coralito) for lunch, and a long break, instead of heading north to Playa Ensenada Grande on Isla Partida, as well as the seal colony of Los Islotes, because the sea is a bit rough. You never go to the east side of the islands, because it's more open and bigger waves. It's a pity. Half of the boat did a bit of snorkeling off the beach, where I attempted to walk to. Didn't get far into the water. It's tricky to walk on rocks in water. Didn't see many fish, but saw millions of sea cockroaches. Yes, water is very clean here, despite of the obvious litter here and there. The company tried best to contain all the trash in a big bag and take it away. Dad picked a few shells here. Some are tiny and delicate. Lunch is ceviche. Beer and cola. Don't know what kind of white fish. It's chopped up so small so hard to tell. I liked it. But my parents didn't want to eat raw fish for fear of germs. They took deli ham and cheese with white bread. No bathroom. So, walk past "Not W.C." sign, and do your business behind a small dune. The guide of the other boat speaks excellent English: all foreigners on her boat. She was nice enough to relate the frigate bird story to me. There were total of 7-8 boats docked here.
On the way back, we passed by some place where Manta Rays would fly out of the water. Very interesting. Then we pass by Balandra beach(es), claimed to be the most beautiful beach in the world. Too bad that we didn't stop there.

Back to town around 5pm. Finally checked into our room. I went out to buy a tour to see Gray Whales for tomorrow. Sunset was lovely tonight. There's also a rooftop of this hotel, but not as nice.

After dinner (yes, from the same Chinese restaurant), we strolled south along Malecon. The temperature was very pleasant. Moon was bright. Street was lively.

3/4 Sunday. Gray Whale tour ($110/pp) in Magdelena Bay - one of their nursing grounds. National Geographic has a video showcases some of the highlights.
We waited for pickup at the breakfast lobby. 2 vans. All Mexicans except us. After 2+ hour drive over dry boring landscape, we stopped at Restaurant Los Dolores, at a road junction with no infrastructure. You scoop water from a barrel to flush the toilet. I don't want to think where it goes down to. The breakfast is 3 beef burrito, a slice of cheese and some beans. I don't like this burrito: narrow with overcooked shredded beef, with no veggie or sauce inside. So very dry. I asked the driver where they get their water. He told me it's from a town 12km away. 45 minutes later, we arrived at Puerto Chale, at the south end of Magdelena Bay, which is the closest from La Paz.
We board two boats, no canopy. Going out of the river channel was pleasant. Tree-lined banks with a lot of birds. As soon as we were out in the bay (rather open), I had to take off my hat, so it wouldn't fly away. Water was rather choppy, so much so, that my right hand that was holding on to the side of the boat touched water a number of times. I was cold and wet, because the wave pour down me at times. My sunglasses were wet with salt residue, hard to see. Once we reached the corner of Margarita Island and Cresciente Island, we slowed down, and it was calmer. I changed my fleece, no longer shivering. Yes, always bring some dry clothes in a dry bag.
Yes, quite some whales, and sometimes very close. They are often a pair: mom and baby. On calmer days, the engine can be shut down, and the whales would be close enough that you can touch them. Another area to see whales in Magdelena Bay is at the north end, near Puerto San Carlos. Looking over the map, and other nursing grounds in Baja, seems the sound or bay of Laguna San Ignacio and Laguna Ojo de Liebre much north (the latter is bordering the north half of Baja) is more sheltered. Next time, I'd go there.
A late lunch after the tour, at Puerto Charle. Battered fish. Quite fresh. Lettuce, rice, and beer. Dad approved. A lady walked around the tables and gave us a name card, if you want to book a tour directly with the local: puertochale@hotmail.com, 612-13-63-766/15-68-501.

Back at La Paz around 6pm. Went up to the rooftop to see the sunset. Not as pretty as yesterday. After dinner, we strolled along Malecon north. Very nice.

One thing we missed, which should have done, if I planned better, is the whale shark tour. Again, probably better on a calm day, as I'm prone to motion sickness.

East Cape

3/5 Monday. Breakfast at the hotel lobby. Check out ~9am. Heading home today.
We took a different road, SE on highway 1 over low mountain ranges via El Triunfo. It's quite scenic. The hills are green, no more sprawling concrete towns. El Tiunfo is one of the little mining towns, quite nice. Recently re-vitalized. Was a ghost town for about 80 years. This chimney is said to be designed by Gustav Eiffel. At the end of the curving mountain road, we reached the coast of Cortez Sea at Los Barriles, which I don't like. Looks dry and sprawling.

The goal is Cabo Pulmo National Park. The paved road ends 10Km north of the town of Cabo Pulmo. The road is quite rough at times, and signs of view lot for sale. The town is really a collection of ramshacks, and outfitters. The main parking lot is circled by stores. You can park in front of the national park office, a small open shed. The water is of the beautiful green blue. I wanted to go further to Playa Los Arbolitos and Frailes. But don't comfortable with my little car. Need a high clearance vehicle to better enjoy the area. I'd like to come back.

Last stop before the airport is the memorial of Tropic of Cancer. Flowers, a gift shop, free bathroom, makes a nice break. Not many cars stop by. The lady at the gift shop disappeared while we were there, obviously didn't expect to make any sale. I don't know what other buildings here are for.

Around 2:30pm, we reached the airport. International terminal is terminal 2, but I dropped my parents at terminal 1. Our flight is at 4:30pm. They had some trouble in SeaTac airport with US immigration. I don't understand why Alaska made them go through immigration, since their connecting flight is to Vancouver. They got there past midnight. All is well.