5/28, Saturday. Showers. A late start after a sumptuous breakfast, headed to Staircase ranger station on the SE side of the Olympic Peninsula. Traffic into Tacoma in both directions. More traffic around Lewis - McCord base. Picked up a loaf of bread (tasty) at Blue Heron bakery in Mud Bay. A short detour to Evergreen College (nice campus, not so pretty concrete buildings). Hit rain shortly afterwards. Lots of fishing boats out. Hoodsport happened to be sunny. Lots of people. Didn't find out what's happening. There, turn left on 119, along Lake Cushman (a dammed reservoir). A state park, a resort, quite a few houses and even a golf course on its wooded shore. Saw a deer crossing the road. At Bear Gulch picnic area at its northern end, had lunch in the car with a view of the lake, as by then, the rain has returned. Quite pretty. Olympic National Park Staircase entrance is shortly afterwards. The ranger informed me that permit for Flapjack Lakes are by reservation only (limit to 50 people, and it was full). Reluctantly issued a permit for Black and White Lakes, because he said already plenty of people obtained permit there for the night. We didn't start hiking until 2:20pm. Yes. Still raining, lightly. But it didn't stop until about 9pm :(
The trail was crowded in the first mile. Lots of people camp at the campground (50 sites) across from the ranger station. The short 2 mile Rapids Loop is an easy choice along North Fork Skokomish River, which was fast flowing. There's a serious bridge to cross the river and return on the other side. After the bridge, the crowd thinned out considerably. 3 boring but easy miles later is a trail junction.
Turn right here for Flapjack Lakes (in 4 miles), Gladys Ridge (in 5.5 miles), Black and White Lakes (4.5 miles). The trail is boring, a few fallen trees, some wild roses and lots of Solomon's plume in bloom. Another serious bridge over tumbling water, a marker tells you this is Madeline Creek. A big campsite after the bridge by the Madeline Creek. After the marked junction (Black and White Lake to the left crossing Donahue, and Flapjack Lakes to the right and up) at about 3.5 miles and @3400', the trail gets rougher and steeper. More washouts. More waterfalls. Pink ribbons at times to lead the way. One big down tree was most problematic. I took off my pack and crawled under it on my belly. Soon, snow appeared, and slope gets gentler. Lots of Avalanche Lily, Western Anemone, huckleberry bush, some just budding. Lots of beargrass, none blooming yet. Black and White Lakes are to the right of the trail. Whatever leads to them, if there is one, was buried under the snow. My GPS map came in handy. The lakes are small, but quite pretty, especially now with half thawed snow covering a better part of the surface. A number of tents were already here. One guy was attempting to fish. We pitched the tent next to a small snow fed pond. Still drizzling. I put my stuff in the tent, and went on in search of Smith Lake, which should only be a mile away. I went up a small ledge north. Couldn't see any trail or foot prints, just more snow. Gave up and returned to camp. Cold and wet. At about 9pm, I noticed color through the "window" (a small triangular clear plastic) of the tent. Stuck my head out. The rain stopped. The setting sun was casting color on the thick clouds. Nice view of the mountain over the Skokomish valley. Snatched a few photo without getting out of the tent, because I don't want to put my damp boot onto my clean socks. A good finish after about 9 miles and 4000'+.
The name Black and White comes from a brand of whiskey drank by early elk hunters in the region, and was beloved so much by one man, that he wandered off to the lake and carved the name of the whiskey into one of the high alpine trees.
5/29, Sunday. No more rain today, even though plenty of dark clouds in the morning looked quite menacing. After the breakfast, walked to the SW ledge end above the lake basin. Good view of the valley as well as views to part of the Sawtooth Range and Flapjack Lakes below among the woods.
Packed up and hiked down a mile (it seems longer) to the trail junction to Flapjack Lakes. Crawled under the same tree. Dropped packs in one of the camp sites next to the creek just below the junction. Repacked lunch, water, and also crampons, headed up to Flapjack Lakes. The half mile also seems longer, steep and rugged. More Trillion, both purple and white, but small blossoms. Avalanche Lily, Glacier Lily, Lady Slipper. The 2 lakes here are larger. Beautiful green color. You can see Sawtooth Ridge from one side of the lakes. Two campsites between the lakes were occupied, despite of the no camping sign. Had lunch here admiring the mountains over the emerald water.
I wanted to check out Gladys Ridge, but forgot how far it was. From my GPS map, it seems less than a mile. So after 20 minutes into to the woody hillside, I was very happy to encounter a hiker. He informed us that the ridge is in another mile, lots of snow, but enough people were going so plenty foot prints to follow. True, soon met more hikers, and much more snow. In fact, the last half of mile is all snow. Boy, was it splendid! The snowy trail (need at least 2 weeks to thaw) parallels the aptly named Sawtooth Ridge. Jagged peaks rising immediately beside you. The trail is also gentle. Whatever roots and rocks that may make the treading difficult were now all smoothed out by snow. Not icy. Easy to make steps whenever needed. The sun was out. It was noticeably warm, and so bright, that I had trouble opening my eyes. At the end of trail, you can peek into Skokomish Wilderness, overlook a valley beneath Mt Skokomish (6434'), and a frozen lake (Murdock Lake?). Many snowy mountains (probably no more snow in a month or 2), not sure which one is Mt Gladys to the left, nor which is Mt Cruiser (6104') to the right, the only 2 named on my map.
Nothing interesting to report on the way out. The Spike Camp on the park map at the junction of Noth Fork Skokomish River trail doesn't seem to exist. About 2 miles later, found a nice campsite next to Skokomish River, followed a sign for Slider Camp, over a small creek, then a Jurassic Park like flat jungle with hanging lichen and waist high saw ferns. Existing fire ring, dry log to sit on. Open. Right by the rushing river. Had champagne with dinner to celebrate my uncoming birthday. A fine finish after about 14 miles.
5/30, Memorial Monday. Warmer day. Sunny, few clouds. My gas canister went empty before breakfast was properly heated. No matter. Cold mocha mouss and a candle for breakfast. Had my shoes and sock on the pebble beach drying in the sun, before hiking out. Reached the ranger station at 9:30am. It was still closed. Filled water at the campground.
Drove to Upper Mt Ellinor trailhead (3500'), on 014 off FSRD 119. Decent condition with some potholes. Depending on the source, the trail to the summit (5944') is 1.6 miles or 2.25 miles. Very well made trail. Nails holding the wooden steps. The trail goes on a ridge for about half a mile. Somewhat steep, but not too bad. At 1/4 mile, junction of the lower Ellinor Trail. At the sign of Summit Trail was where the snow started. The view opens up soon afterwards. The puget sound winding below, Mt Rainier, Adams, and St Helens beyond. A fine turnaround point for those ill-equipped. A mountain goat or more entertain your camera. Put on crampons, or with stubbornness (many hikers here had just tennis shoes on), you can continue on to steeper slopes. Fortunately, the snow was soft, easy to kick in for steps. Soon you reach a ridge overlooking more mountains on the other side. Now head to the right. Some rocks and snow. Probably a good scramble in summer. The top is barely large enough for two dozen people, and it was crowded today. Deservedly so. What a view! I don't know where to take a photo. 360° layers of green mountains topped with snow every direction you look. Not hot, not cold, no wind, all the reason to linger. Reluctantly, headed down, making room for the new arrivals. It's not easy going on the steep snowy hills. I had to put crampons on. Glissaded a bit on not so steep sections. Got pretty wet. It was fun.