Wednesday, August 25, 2010

2010.8.24-25. Elfin Lakes

Elfin Lakes in BC's Garibaldi Provincial Park.

The drive here is spectacular, overlooking Howe Sound with the backdrop of Tantulus Mountain. Arrived ~noon Tuesday. The parking lot was almost full (close to 30 vehicles). My heart sank, because the shelter has only space for 33 people. Felt better and better after 30+ people came down. Must be pretty crowded Monday night. Started hiking ~12:45. Took almost 5 hrs to reach Elfin Lakes' Shelter, with multiple breaks and even more whining from the kids. (11Km, ~650m gain + 200m loss, could be done in 3 hrs.) Gentle slope, wide logging road. The first 5Km is shaded, tall trees, boring. Red Heather Shelter offers 2 tables, 2 burners and a winter only stove. A nice lunch stop. From here, heathers overtake trees. At the fork, we took the hiker only trail (the other one is for bikes and service truck). In less than an hour, started Paul Ridge. Views get progressively better, and heathers progressively dense until the whole slopes were carpet in pink. There was a small patch of snow, before the slope goes down. Another hour later, the two deep blue Elfin Lakes came to view. Small. A ranger station sat right next to the smaller lake (for drinking water). The slightly larger one is for swimming. Water is not too cold. But lots of mosquitoes. At night, bright full moon reflects in the lakes, many shining stars.

The shelter is very nice. Downstairs has 2 large tables, equipped with propane and 4 propane burners. Easy to use. A couple of large pot to fetch water with. Dish washer and wash sink. Upstairs has 11 wood bunks and some benches, bottom bunk is double, top is single. Very warm due to the cooking downstairs. This night, it was less than half full, and I had a double bunk to myself. Toilet is in another structure, smells of toxic paint. 1Km further is the camp ground on a nice heather meadow by a small creek, with a view to the west mountain ridge. No seclusion though.

Got up around 6:30am. Took some pictures of the morning reflection. Then I embarked on the Opal Cone trail all by myself. Ran into dad few minutes later. Opal Cone is a volcanic remnant. 6.5 Km one way. Not for the faint heart: a couple of slopes are rather dangerous. Some creek crossing, one nice bridge, quite some lupines. Well marked. At 6Km, a left fork goes up to the cone, while the continuation of the trail leads to Rampart Pond and Mamquam Lake. The fork to Opal Cone is very nice, a short ridge full of flowers, view of the half melted (with blue ice) ice fields below, and Bishop Glacier in front. Diamond Head's eastern face seems within arm's reach. Absolutely beautiful. Some scrambling is required. Didn't see a single sole during the entire hike except one person at the top of the cone. I didn't bring a camera, so no record. ~2 hrs one way.


Back to the shelter, packed, and left ~noon. Arrived at the car by 4pm. Again, much slower than average. Lots of people coming up this day, at least 3 on bikes.

Practicality: 16Km east of Hwy 99 on Mamquam Rd (~10Km is good gravel with potholes at times), 4 Km north of Squamish. ~1.7 hrs from Vancouver. $25 shelter fee at Elfin Lakes per family per night, or $10 pp, or $5 for camp site, parking included. Mamquam Lake has camp sites.