Hwy 199 to Palenque is very rough. Wide, but rutted, pavement washed away? The road got better as we approach the town at the junction of 199 and 10, just north of Palenque Airport. We picked up some more passengers. Arrived in Palenque ~5:15pm. After checking into my room (for 2 nights), I set out to inquire about tours to the waterfalls. Started at the front desk, at the 3rd agency, I bought 2 packages for $650, transportation + entry. Then I bought some fruits and pastry for dinner and tomorrow. The hostel's kitchen is so ill-equipped that I decided not to cook. Its wifi also sucks. I had trouble booking lodging at Ocosingo. Went to sleep pretty late.
11/18, day 3, Sunday. 8am I was picked up by a minivan. Then we picked up 2 ladies in another hotel. Just 3 of us. Getting out of the town at the time was very slow. At El Panchan, the driver paid M$34.15 national park fee. A very bizarre number: here in the stores, everything is rounded to the nearest 50c. A mile or so later, we were told to wait at noon for pickup next to the museum. At the end of the road, the entrance to archeological site, we and many others were sent to a guide who stood in front of a big map and explained what a guided tour entails in Spanish and abridged English, while our driver went to buy us tickets. M$70. I didn't like the guided tour at Tikal, so opted out. Especially with such a large group. There are guides everywhere. I heard Spanish the most, then English, French, one Russian. I crisscrossed one American guide with his son and clients?/friends? a few times. He was an archeologist at some earlier excavations. I heard him greeting workers here in excellent Spanish.
Palenque, as a park, is not old. Listed in UNESCO in 1988. Quite crowded.
Very much like Tikal, in the jungle, multiple complexes. Howler monkeys howls often, but I didn't see any one. Didn't see any parrots or toucans either. The temples are big, not as tall as in Tonina or Tikal. The palace is elaborate, with many carvings, large rooms. In the next group, ss usual, a sun temple that faces sunrise at solstice. Also common, the restored part is only a tiny fraction of the site. I found the temple that worships a corn god interesting. There's an aqueduct with running water.
I wanted to find the Lost Temple, shown on the OSM map. But a few trails that may lead there (based on OSM's map) were closed. There're many ropes and "no pass" sign. I picked up a boot track and walked up to the temple of beautiful relief. I couldn't see any relief, either terribly eroded or sits in a museum. I continued up in the jungle for a few more minutes, didn't get anywhere interesting, so returned as I came.
Coming out via the north group, very steep long stairs down to group 1&2 to a platform viewing the small cascade. If you come out via group B & C, then you'd go through a suspension bridge.
It's very humid. Even though not hot, thanks to the cloud cover, I was still dripping with sweat. Yes, long sleeves and permetherin. I wasn't bothered by mosquitoes.
The most impressive exhibit in the museum is the sarcophagus of the
Red Queen, found under Temple 13, was covered in dust of red mercury sulfide when discovered. No body inside. Reliefs on all sides in near perfect condition. It has its own exhibit room in a glass triangle room, nicely designed. The museum restroom is in a separate building. The stalls are tiny, my knees pushing against the door. No hangers, no toilet paper. There's one roll on the wall outside. You have to get paper before lock yourself in the stall.
I found the 2 ladies from my minivan at the busy parking lot. They were going to Agua Azur. We didn't need to be here at 12. The tourist vans pick up hotel guests at noon first. In my minivan this afternoon, a French young couple, who never stopped talking to each other, another American, and a family of 5 Mexicans.
The drive to
Roberto Barrios is smooth except for a short section of bad pavement. We arrived at almost 1pm. There's one toilet stall, one restaurant near the parking lot. No other tourist amenity - thankfully. I headed down the trail with my dry bag. Very pretty. It reminds me of Semuc Champey. No high viewpoint. The water is greenish. Not too clear, but seems clean. Some people here having their picnics. No crowd. No peddlers. Quite genuine. After checking out all the pools, I decided to sit in the middle pool, in the middle and read. Very relaxing. Got a bit chilled, though. I brought a water bag for my belongings, and a waterproof plastic case for my phone, which hangs on my neck when I take photos in the middle of the water. But the photos are not as clear. The only thing I left on shore unattended are my shoes and socks. It worked out very well.
At 4pm, we slowly gathered and drove back to town. I bought some rambutan and tangerine. Didn't like the latter, too dry. Bought a lighter colored chayote, not as good as the regular green one. Turned the fan on in my room to help drying my clothes.
11/19, day 4, Monday. Overcast. Walked around the town. Quite ugly, no trees on street, or overgrown plants on broken pavement. The central square is also ugly. There was a kid parade when I went by.
Checked out the public market, it's called Mercado Guadalupe. No vegetables inside, only food court, serving local clients. Too bad they close early, otherwise I could've dined here. The vegetable and fruit sellers are all on the street surrounding it, on the pavement. Quite lively. I was disappointed to not find anything unusual. Live stocks are only chicken and turkey.
At noon, I waited for my tour pickup. We drove to the museum and picked up more. Total 2 vans, mine has 10 people. AC in full blast. I was grateful for the AC. We were given 45 min at
Misol-Ha. A very tall waterfall, close to the highway. A few were swimming in the pool where the waterfall plunges into. You can walk behind the falls, good that I was wearing sandals, as you'll get wet. The water also comes out of holes in the cliff. At the end of the short trail is a cave. I paid $10 to wade into the cave. I took off my pant legs, borrowed a flashlight. Less than 5 minutes in, a waterfall about 3m high, 2m wide, cascading down to a pool. I didn't test how deep the pool is. Lots vendor by the parking lot. $5 toilet. At 1:50 we headed out.
An hour later, we arrived at
Agua Azul. Innumerable stores sell food, drink and souvenir. Very commercial. The entire cobblestone walkway was lined by the shops, for ~1 mile long. All touting their goods. Very annoying. The waterfalls here are incredible. Even without the blue color that it's known for, it's still impressive. No sun today, so the water is more green.
Not a lot of people swimming. The most beautiful lower two tiers were blocked off for fear of tourist being swept away by the current.
I walked upstream to the end of the trail, where two old men sitting under a tree yelled at us if we go further. Finally no more stores. It's a village. Flat. Corn fields. I saw women washing clothes and bathe in the river, kids jumping in and out. Probably agriculture runoff. At least the village looks small. I don't want to think about the waste water from all the food stores. Later, I waded into one small pool, and sat for a bit. Chillier than yesterday.
At 5pm, 2 extra tourists in the van, and we headed back to Palenque. When the driver turned north, I reminded him that some of us were going south. He said he'll send us to a transfer later. I was sent off later at a stop with a collectivo signed for Ocosingo. It was quite full. I sat between the driver and the passenger seat. Not comfortable. Moved back after someone got off.
11/20, day 5, Tuesday. Revolution Day. Checked out the town. A nice leafy central plaza. Interesting church alter. Went east to Mercado Belizario-Dominguez by the peripheral to check out local transportation. Nothing centralized (the collectivos and the fruit vendors). All along the streets. Bought tamales, bananas, avocados and bread. The town square was preparing for a celebration. Loads of policemen.
At 9:30am, I was the first tourist today. M$60. Even though the park opens at 8, the museum was closed when I walked by. A guide engaged me with his service. Since my Spanish is so bad, I cannot learn much from him. Later another guide, as well as a pre-teen boy tried to sell me their service. None speaks English. After that I was left alone. 
I really like it here. No jungle. Very pastoral. Farm fields around with occasional houses. Two restaurants near the entrance, but none calling out for your attention. The temple here is very high. Great 360° view. I had it all to myself. There's an equally high mount next to the one I was on, covered with trees and grasses. Probably another temple under the surface? 
When I headed down the temple, I encountered the 2nd tourist of the day, all by herself, holding a camera. Later, I saw a family in the ball court with a guide. That's all the tourists it gets all morning. As I exited the site, the museum was open. Quite small, but an interesting building. This plaque is marked as 10 Baktún, 4 Katún, 0 Tun, 0 Winal, 0 Kin/day (909CE Jan 18th) - the very last date registered in the acropolis of Toniná, also the last date in the high lands. Bathroom next door, was open since my arrival. I sat on the long bench by the road to wait for some return transportation. Two men were chatting, one looked like a gringo. When a truck pulled over, unloaded its contents, everyone there asked Ocosingo, and pointed me to the truck. So I got on. I probably waited for only 5 min. The truck picked more passengers along the way. At Ocosingo market, he asked for $13, apparently a standard fare.
