2024.2.5-9 Nicaragua 2: Granada and Masaya

Granada

2/5, Day 11 Monday.
Granada bus at 7:55am. c50. Hot! Arrived at 9:30am south of town. Walked over a bridge, with tons of trash below in the river. Right at the main square, someone tried to sell me tours.

Dropped my bag at the hotel. Visited San Francisco Convent Museum. ~$5. It hosts a small exhibition of a local artist, some religious artifacts. The building is very nice, part of it dates back to the 1500s. The prize of its collection is the large Zapateca statues, now standing outside under a roof. However, no description is given on where exactly they were found, or what was depicted, or the age.

Checked in at Il Padriono. Working for the rest of the afternoon. The owner of this hotel is a young couple. I really like the wife. Her English is good. The husband is british. She gave me an insect burning gadget, but it doesn't help much. She has contacts of various local tour operators, and provide good price. She writes on a whiteboard in the lobby of tour and room# - a good reminder for all. I asked her to book me a Mombacho walking tour (US$50 need at least 2 other tourists) and a Masaya Volcano tour (US$25).

My room is large. The door has a large slate blinds and curtain to block the sun. But there's no insect screen. So, if you need air, mosquitoes will come in. There's fan, no AC. My room is at the end, next to a not-yet-functioning kitchen. It does have a counter and a fridge. I bought some fruit and food. The hotel provides drinking water. After dinner, the wife informs me that the Mombacha tour is happening tomorrow.

2/6, Day 12 Tuesday. Breakfast with cut fruit and traditional meal: rice and bean, egg, toast, potatos. Not a lot.

Volcán Monbacho Puma Trail tour. 8:30 am pickup in a taxi (AC) with 2 German girls. (The national park charges $10 for the guide, $20 4x4 truck ride to and back from the top and entrance fee).

This is the entry station of the park. An airy restaurant, in the morning, pretty deserted. Outside, a few trucks waiting to take tourists up the windy potholed road. It's free to walk. In fact, on our way down, saw a group drenched in sweat walking. My driver picked them up for free. Mombacho is a volcano with a crater, still fuming. Once our truck arrived at the visitor center at the crater, I was assigned a guide. The Germans were assigned a different guide for a different trail. You are allowed to walk freely only ~1Km along the visitor center. There were a lot of guides idling around this day (Tuesday). I'm not sure why I'd need a guide. The trails are clearly marked and built (stairs!).
Having a guide to myself allows me to ask many questions. This guide knows something, and apparently is keen on learning and teaching. He told me that the stairs here are made of Guachipilin - Diphysa Americana for its performance in damp environment. He also pointed to the common Costa Rican palm (pacaya) can be used as hiking poles. Saw quite a few Large Flowered Sobralia orchid (which we saw on the way up La Concepcion on Ometepe. The weather is too cloudy for a better view.
On my truck ride down, I was the only passenger. Took awhile waiting for my driver to pick me up. The same young boy. He highly recommend Matagalpa and Jinotepe.

2nd tour of the day. I was picked at 2:19 (instead of 2:30). First, go to Hostal Azul to pay, cash only. 2 Frenches, 3 Germans. AC in the minivan. 1st stop, Mirador Catalina for Apoyo lagoon. Catalina is one of the small hill towns next to the large lake. Our driver speaks very little English. Before we arrived, he played a recording in English introducing Apoyo Lake. Very good view. The trail is waste of time, all in trees. I walked to both directions. Saw some monkeys, birds. There's a zipline. Fake big animals for photo. Colorful railing at multiple levels. The parking lot costs C100, surrounded by shops. There are also vendors pushing their carts around, and musicians collecting handouts.

At 4pm, we headed to Volcan Masaya. Very slow at the gate due to checkin/collecting fees. Maybe $10? One employee put a ribbon on everyone's wrist. Once inside the park, no congestion driving all the way up to the rim. A large parking lot, and we are free to roam in the vicinity. Not allowed to go off trail: there're "guards" watching over. Gentle slope. Lava rock. 2 high points to walk to with good views and a 2nd crater that's full of vegetation.
This is a large caldera with multiple vents. People flock here to see one which has an opening to the red churning mantle below. However, for safety, a rock wall was raised along the edge, or rather a bit far from the edge. From inside the wall, you cannot really see the lava, except at 2 small viewing platforms. Good luck squeezing in front here. It's a sight to behold. For half an hour right at sunset, it was very crowded. The crowds dispearse after that.
6:30 at the van. It's actually difficult to find our van in the sea of vehicles. The Frenches were 12 minutes late.
I got dropped off first. A very good day.

2/7, day 13 Wednesday.

Walked along Paseo de Los Mangos to the waterfront before 7am. It's a very wide handsome street. But at this hour, the only human I saw wer kids going to schools.

The Malecón along Lago Cocibolca is quite nice, but deserted. A bit windy. Feels very different from the town center. It's not a short walk.

Walked back in town, met a 9am walking tour in the central park. Followed them for a short while before going back to the hotel for breakfast. Busy at work today: 3 meetings.

5:40pm walked out again. Near sunset, pleasant temperature. Walked to Xalteva park. On the way, saw a room (gym?) full of people doing zumba. Took a photo of Parroquia de Nuestra Seňora de la Merced, the best looking church here. For a small fee, you can walk up to its tower for a view of the city, but only before ~5pm.

Checked Hostal Azul for a boat tour tomorrow: no. Hostal Selina: yes. $23. 9am tour. I passed out soon after 7pm.

2/8, day 14 Thursday.

Private 1 hr boat tour Isletas Granada at 9am, arranged by my hotel. $20. C20 to get on the tiny island of Fort San Pablo. Not much to see though. Can walk up the 2nd floor to see a bit further. Good view of Monbacho. The lake feels very large. There are really many tiny islands offshore of Granada in the lake. Many of them are too small, quite a few are just a single home, or a single restaurant. One island has monkeys. Saw a few fishermen, standing fishing encrapments, a group of kayakers, another boat. 1 eagle, Heron, egret, Oropendola, ... Good view of Monbacho some times.

Took $260 from ATM ($4 fee), checked out. Walked to the bus station for Masaya.

Masaya

Bus to Masaya. C17. I got on the bus at 11am. Left at 11:20. 19 people on board. Gas stop. Slower than bike. Picked up many school children along the road. The bus terminal is east of market. Huge.

A long walk to Casa Maria west of downtown. In the heat. Ducking many hanging merchandise on the streets. Bought 3 pairs of thin socks c20. Walked by the deserted artisan market. Outside, I bought some cheese from a street vendor. My room is large and clean. Mosquito net over the bed. However it's on the 2nd floor. The tin roof is heating the air in the room. Very stuffy. Only has a fan, no AC.

Working + sweating all afternoon.

Walked to the Malecón at sunset by lake Masaya. Cooler now. It's quite close by. All access blocked except one. Good: Peddlers cannot enter. Exercise machines. Painted railing.

2/9, day 15. Friday. Up early. Went to the terminal at 6am to check the Matagalpa express bus (2/day). I was told that the 6am bus already left. They were loading the 6:45 bus which would leave at 6:50am.

Walked up El Coyotepe fortress, hoping for a good view. It's closed this early. Too woody to see anything. $2 for foreigners. C15 local. Forgot to bring money. Walked home.

5:30pm, cooled down. Walked to Malecon for sunset again. Then walked into the town for food. Bought pastry c16 each with cheese or meat. A bag of 12 sweet triangle cracker, same price. Packed up to leave early tomorrow, looking forward to some cooler temperature in the north hill countries. Masaya is not worth a stop. I should've stayed in Granada.

2024.2.2-5 Nicaragua 1: Ometepe

US$1 = córdoba36.76

Ometepe 2/2-2/5

2/2. Day 8. Friday. MY and I walked to the bus station. Got on the bus to Rivas, paid $. There, we took a taxi to San Jorge. $1 each. At the entrance to the harbor, had to pay another $1 each. It was already past 4pm, we had only 2 choices left. Took the next one (5pm), a small launcha (in front on the photo). C35. The ferry boat hehind is the last crossing at 5:45pm. C50. The proves to be a challenge. The lake is more choppy than I thought. I asked for a motion-sickness pill from MY. The wind kept me fresh.

We departed late, two guys were carrying a pile of construction material (looks like tin roof) onboard, making multiple trips. The timing is perfect. Sun set as we tumbled across the water. Very pretty. 1 hour crossing. By the time we arrived at Moyogalpa, it was already dark.

We visited multiple travel agencies. MY gave up and went to eat. I continued and settled on an operator by the name of Darvin. Paid him for a guided hike up to La Conception tomorrow. Pickup 6am. $40 total. Walked to the cheap hostel MY picked, about a mile away. Nice yard. Nice owner. No cooking facility for guests. Pay extra for the remote to the AC. Wifi doesn't work from our room.

2/3. Day 9. Saturday. Volcán Concepción hike.
We were picked up before 6am in a taxi. Then, in downtown, it picked up Jessie, our guide. He speaks some English.

Concepcion is the taller of the 2 volcanos on Ometepe. Saw it yesterday from the lake. Beautiful symmetrical shape. We hiked from the town of La Concepcion. The NW track, about 4800' up in ~3.7 miles, very strenuous, and rugged. We were dropped off at a junction of a sandy road. So, first walk about 2Km on this dusty sandy road. Jessie paid the guard for the park entrance fee (c100/pp) a few minutes into the road. Saw White-throated Magpie, (Urraca, and monkeys. He also found some sticks for us. But they are too short for descent. 2 scooters shot past us: 3 people + 1 guide (2 on each bike). As soon as the grade took off, I was lagging behind. Sweating like a pig, but still too hot. Thankfully, we were in the shade. 2 little bananas isn't enough for breakfast. Ate 2 chocolate covered espresso. Still feeling lousy. Then a Lara bar. Better. Jesse and MY were ahead.
Once we reached above tree level (1000m), it was cooler. I felt better. Thick clouds. Don't even see our destination, but can see the town below briefly. Forecast called for a little rain, but sunny in the afternoon. Saw some large flowered Sobralia orchid here.
Expecting no view, 15 minutes later, MY turned around to wait at the treeline. Walking in the cloud is comfortable. Yes, a little drizzle. At around 1300m, Jesse dumped his backpack and pole. For the next 30 minutes, the slope is covered by giant Poormen's Umbrella mixed with pink flowering bushes (Monochaetum deppeanum?). I felt like walking in a prehistorical garden. I really enjoyed this section. I asked Jessie for the names of these plants. Whatever he told me all proved to be wrong by my later research.

Met a Polish guy lying next to some warm volcanic vent, waiting for sunshine. No view at the summit. There seemed to have a crumbly small crater. Chatted with the next group: father and son from Toledo, Spain and their young guide. The dad talks a lot. Complained about how expensive Costa Rica is. A young dutch couple arrived later, sans guide (it's actually illegal). According to Jessie, before the Covid Pandemic, 300 people a day trekked here. We stayed on the summit for almost an hour, hoping for the clouds to move away. Put on more clothes, ate an Epic bar.

On the way down, I could feel that my muscles were near cramping. Loosing too much salt. Didn't drink enough. Need to bring more water. There's no possibility for water refill. Once we met up with MY, took another break. There are 2 benches here. Met a French couple hiked up here (not continuing up). Jessie plugged some Yerba de Guava by roots to be replanted in his own garden for his daugher. It has a very shiny indigo color bead-like flower.

Of course, when we returned to the road, the sky was clear. The flat road walk was unpleasant with sun beating on us. Jessie claimed that he forgot to bring his phone so couldn't call a taxi. We wasted quite some time, waiting for a truck to take us back to Moyogalpa. It was hot.

Back in town, Jessie took us to a motorcycle rental. $20 (scooters are $15) for 24 hours, good brand, newer vehicle. Gave MY a lesson, hoping that he'd rent one here. The Spanish dad&son were staying in the hotel there. The son and the guide were drinking and hanging out in the compound. The son said that it took him 2 hours to go to San Ramon waterfall. MY didn't want to hike more, so we had to make separate plans.

Now that we saw the town in the day, it looks very kitschy. Jessie then took us to a restaurant off the main drag for fish. MY and I shared a fish dish for $5. It was quite good. After dinner, I went to look for a tour that would take me to the waterfall. After talking to 2 outfits, I went back to Darvin. $35 for an island tour with a driver who would drive the 2Km up to a higher parking, but not including any entrance fee. 6am-6pm.

Bought beer and food from Palí before walking back to the cheap hostel.

2/4, Day 10 Sunday. Waiting for the 6am pickup outside of the gate. Martin arrived late, and then expected me to pay to fill his bike. On the way to Volcan Madera (the 2nd volcano on the island), he bought a plastic bag of just fried chicharon from a roadside vendor, chewed some and stashed the rest in his backpack.

First, San Ramón hike. I had to register at the gate, paid c50 entrance fee, and extra c20 for the bike. There's a hotel right here. Our bike is more of a scooter than a motorbike. Less power. On steep hills, I walked, and he rode the bike up, then I hopped back on. On and off a few times, finally we reached the upper parking lot. Martin waited for me here.
The hike is straightforward. It's in a valley, so mostly had shade, especially early morning. Took me less than 1 hour to reach the waterfall. It's thin, into a shallow pool, but pretty enough. Water is clean. There're some water pipe along the trail, probably sending water down to some village. On the way up, I passed one couple. On the way back, a few more people. Over all, not busy. Along the way, saw Blue Mistflower, Begonia sericoneura, Tropical Milkweed. On the way down, same, hopped on and off Martin's scooter a few times.

Next, we stopped at Playa Mango. This is highlighted by all the operators back in town. I'm a little disappointed to find out that it's just one restaurant next to a small beach. The restaurant looks pretty. Large mango trees (need to be here in June?) providing shade (at least when I was there: 10:40-11am). A swing where people can swing out and jump down into the lake. The view of half of La Concepcion. Some tour agent tried to sell me kayak trips. Apparently there's a creek going between the two volcanos, where you can see more birds. We are very close to this narrow between the two volcanos.

Next, we stopped at Playa San Domingo, on the north side of the island. A very small restaurant. Much longer beach. No crowd. No one tried to sell me anything. But no shade. Outside, at one house' fence, Martin pointed to me a tiny snake. If it didn't move, I'd not be able to see it. On the way out, Martin bought a couple of small plastic bags of little silver smelt.

Next, Ojo de Agua. $10 entrace, including a $5 voucher to use in its restaurant. There're 2 swimming pools of spring water. Very busy. The pools are not deep, I can keep my head above water if I'm on my toes. A lot of plans providing shade. It's nice to while away the hot afternoon. Got 2 drinks with the voucher, gave one to Martin. About an hour into my doing-nothing, Martin decided to go change and have a dip himself. When he returned, he told me that he had a trouble. It turned out, when he left his pack on the ground, ants found ways to his fish and pork skin. Thousands of them. As he squash some, we realized that his pack had ants in every nook and cranny. I told him to take his pack to the shower. There're are a few outdoor showers next to the pools. He threw away his fish. Did the shower rinse in two rounds. We left.

Next, Reserva Charco Verde. $5. There is a large hotel here. The young guy who sold me ticket speaks good English. First, I went to the butterfly house. It's a disappointment. Maybe 3-4 kinds, a dozen butterflies only. There's a display on these 4 species: Morpho Peleides, Heliconius Charithonia, Caligo Memnon, Papillo Thoas. Mostly outdoor, lots of flowering plants, covered in mesh. Hot. Some watermelons (half rotton) in bowls for the butterflies. Didn't see anyone else here.

Then, I walked up a trail to the "mirador". That's a disappointment. It's not high enough to have any view. Obscured by trees. Saw a short deserted zipline, a short swing bridge. Walked to the black sand beach. It's possible to find a nice beach without anyone. Found a family fishing illegally here. They drag a bedsheet-like large cloth from the water. Here's a little fish they caught.

This reserve is named after this lagoon of ancient sacraficial myth. Not really green, but pretty with the view of Volcán Madera.

Last, is sunset at Punta Jesus María. Quite a lot of people here. Many food vendors. The sunset was disappointing due to the thick clouds. Ran into MY who walked here. It turned out that we went on a half day trip with others, driven by the son of the hostel owner. He really liked the swing at Mango Beach.

Back at the hostel, arranged for a ride next day to the ferry dock for c50 at 5:30am.

2/5, Day 11 Monday. The son of the hostal owner took us to the dock to catch the 6am ferry. Sunrise time. Quite pretty. This ride is much more comfortable.

Back at St Jorge, there's a bus going to Managua directly, the capital. MY hopped on. We didn't have time to say goodbye. He was going to the Corn Islands. I was heading to Granada. I took a shared taxi to Rivas mercado. c30. Bought some fruits: papaya c40, c10 for 6 little bananas. c15 for 12 oranges (turns out too sour, that I use it like lemon to flavor water).