Ometepe 2/2-2/5
2/2. Day 8. Friday.
MY and I walked to the bus station.
Got on the bus to Rivas, paid $.
There, we took a taxi to San Jorge. $1 each.
At the entrance to the harbor, had to pay another $1 each.
It was already past 4pm, we had only 2 choices left.
Took the next one (5pm), a small launcha (in front on the photo). C35.
The ferry boat hehind is the last crossing at 5:45pm. C50.
The proves to be a challenge.
The lake is more choppy than I thought. I asked for a motion-sickness pill from MY.
The wind kept me fresh.
We departed late, two guys were carrying a pile of construction material (looks like tin roof) onboard, making multiple trips.
The timing is perfect. Sun set as we tumbled across the water. Very pretty.
1 hour crossing. By the time we arrived at Moyogalpa, it was already dark.
We visited multiple travel agencies. MY gave up and went to eat. I continued and settled on an operator by the name of Darvin. Paid him for a guided hike up to La Conception tomorrow. Pickup 6am. $40 total.
Walked to the cheap hostel MY picked, about a mile away. Nice yard. Nice owner.
No cooking facility for guests.
Pay extra for the remote to the AC. Wifi doesn't work from our room.
2/3. Day 9. Saturday. Volcán Concepción hike.
We were picked up before 6am in a taxi. Then, in downtown, it picked up Jessie, our guide. He speaks some English.
Concepcion is the taller of the 2 volcanos on Ometepe. Saw it yesterday from the lake. Beautiful symmetrical shape. We hiked from the town of La Concepcion. The NW track, about 4800' up in ~3.7 miles, very strenuous, and rugged. We were dropped off at a junction of a sandy road. So, first walk about 2Km on this dusty sandy road. Jessie paid the guard for the park entrance fee (c100/pp) a few minutes into the road. Saw White-throated Magpie, (Urraca, and monkeys. He also found some sticks for us. But they are too short for descent. 2 scooters shot past us: 3 people + 1 guide (2 on each bike). As soon as the grade took off, I was lagging behind. Sweating like a pig, but still too hot. Thankfully, we were in the shade. 2 little bananas isn't enough for breakfast. Ate 2 chocolate covered espresso. Still feeling lousy. Then a Lara bar. Better. Jesse and MY were ahead.
Once we reached above tree level (1000m), it was cooler. I felt better.
Thick clouds. Don't even see our destination, but can see the town below briefly.
Forecast called for a little rain, but sunny in the afternoon.
Saw some large flowered Sobralia orchid here.
Expecting no view, 15 minutes later, MY turned around to wait at the treeline.
Walking in the cloud is comfortable. Yes, a little drizzle.
At around 1300m, Jesse dumped his backpack and pole.
For the next 30 minutes, the slope is covered by giant Poormen's Umbrella mixed with pink flowering bushes (Monochaetum deppeanum?).
I felt like walking in a prehistorical garden. I really enjoyed this section.
I asked Jessie for the names of these plants. Whatever he told me all proved to be wrong by my later research.
Met a Polish guy lying next to some warm volcanic vent, waiting for sunshine.
No view at the summit. There seemed to have a crumbly small crater.
Chatted with the next group: father and son from Toledo, Spain and their young guide.
The dad talks a lot. Complained about how expensive Costa Rica is.
A young dutch couple arrived later, sans guide (it's actually illegal).
According to Jessie, before the Covid Pandemic, 300 people a day trekked here.
We stayed on the summit for almost an hour, hoping for the clouds to move away.
Put on more clothes, ate an Epic bar.
On the way down, I could feel that my muscles were near cramping. Loosing too much salt. Didn't drink enough. Need to bring more water. There's no possibility for water refill.
Once we met up with MY, took another break.
There are 2 benches here. Met a French couple hiked up here (not continuing up).
Jessie plugged some Yerba de Guava by roots to be replanted in his own garden for his daugher.
It has a very shiny indigo color bead-like flower.
Of course, when we returned to the road, the sky was clear.
The flat road walk was unpleasant with sun beating on us.
Jessie claimed that he forgot to bring his phone so couldn't call a taxi.
We wasted quite some time, waiting for a truck to take us back to Moyogalpa. It was hot.
Back in town, Jessie took us to a motorcycle rental. $20 (scooters are $15) for 24 hours, good brand, newer vehicle. Gave MY a lesson, hoping that he'd rent one here.
The Spanish dad&son were staying in the hotel there.
The son and the guide were drinking and hanging out in the compound.
The son said that it took him 2 hours to go to San Ramon waterfall.
MY didn't want to hike more, so we had to make separate plans.
Now that we saw the town in the day, it looks very kitschy. Jessie then took us to a restaurant off the main drag for fish. MY and I shared a fish dish for $5. It was quite good. After dinner, I went to look for a tour that would take me to the waterfall. After talking to 2 outfits, I went back to Darvin. $35 for an island tour with a driver who would drive the 2Km up to a higher parking, but not including any entrance fee. 6am-6pm.
Bought beer and food from Palí before walking back to the cheap hostel.
2/4, Day 10 Sunday. Waiting for the 6am pickup outside of the gate. Martin arrived late, and then expected me to pay to fill his bike. On the way to Volcan Madera (the 2nd volcano on the island), he bought a plastic bag of just fried chicharon from a roadside vendor, chewed some and stashed the rest in his backpack.
First, San Ramón hike.
I had to register at the gate, paid c50 entrance fee, and extra c20 for the bike.
There's a hotel right here.
Our bike is more of a scooter than a motorbike. Less power.
On steep hills, I walked, and he rode the bike up, then I hopped back on.
On and off a few times, finally we reached the upper parking lot.
Martin waited for me here.
The hike is straightforward. It's in a valley, so mostly had shade, especially early morning. Took me less than 1 hour to reach the waterfall. It's thin, into a shallow pool, but pretty enough. Water is clean. There're some water pipe along the trail, probably sending water down to some village. On the way up, I passed one couple. On the way back, a few more people. Over all, not busy. Along the way, saw Blue Mistflower, Begonia sericoneura, Tropical Milkweed. On the way down, same, hopped on and off Martin's scooter a few times.
Next, we stopped at Playa Mango.
This is highlighted by all the operators back in town.
I'm a little disappointed to find out that it's just one restaurant next to a small beach.
The restaurant looks pretty. Large mango trees (need to be here in June?) providing shade (at least when I was there: 10:40-11am).
A swing where people can swing out and jump down into the lake.
The view of half of La Concepcion.
Some tour agent tried to sell me kayak trips. Apparently there's a creek going between the two volcanos, where you can see more birds.
We are very close to this narrow between the two volcanos.
Next, we stopped at Playa San Domingo, on the north side of the island. A very small restaurant. Much longer beach. No crowd. No one tried to sell me anything. But no shade.
Outside, at one house' fence, Martin pointed to me a tiny snake.
If it didn't move, I'd not be able to see it.
On the way out, Martin bought a couple of small plastic bags of little silver smelt.
Next, Ojo de Agua. $10 entrace, including a $5 voucher to use in its restaurant.
There're 2 swimming pools of spring water. Very busy. The pools are not deep, I can keep my head above water if I'm on my toes.
A lot of plans providing shade. It's nice to while away the hot afternoon.
Got 2 drinks with the voucher, gave one to Martin.
About an hour into my doing-nothing, Martin decided to go change and have a dip himself.
When he returned, he told me that he had a trouble.
It turned out, when he left his pack on the ground, ants found ways to his fish and pork skin. Thousands of them. As he squash some, we realized that his pack had ants in every nook and cranny.
I told him to take his pack to the shower.
There're are a few outdoor showers next to the pools.
He threw away his fish. Did the shower rinse in two rounds.
We left.
Next, Reserva Charco Verde. $5.
There is a large hotel here. The young guy who sold me ticket speaks good English.
First, I went to the butterfly house. It's a disappointment. Maybe 3-4 kinds, a dozen butterflies only.
There's a display on these 4 species: Morpho Peleides, Heliconius Charithonia, Caligo Memnon, Papillo Thoas.
Mostly outdoor, lots of flowering plants, covered in mesh. Hot. Some watermelons (half rotton) in bowls for the butterflies.
Didn't see anyone else here.
Then, I walked up a trail to the "mirador". That's a disappointment. It's not high enough to have any view. Obscured by trees.
Saw a short deserted zipline, a short swing bridge.
Walked to the black sand beach. It's possible to find a nice beach without anyone.
Found a family fishing illegally here. They drag a bedsheet-like large cloth from the water. Here's a little fish they caught.
This reserve is named after this lagoon of ancient sacraficial myth. Not really green, but pretty with the view of Volcán Madera.
Last, is sunset at Punta Jesus María.
Quite a lot of people here. Many food vendors. The sunset was disappointing due to the thick clouds.
Ran into MY who walked here. It turned out that we went on a half day trip with others, driven by the son of the hostel owner.
He really liked the swing at Mango Beach.
Back at the hostel, arranged for a ride next day to the ferry dock for c50 at 5:30am.
2/5, Day 11 Monday.
The son of the hostal owner took us to the dock to catch the 6am ferry.
Sunrise time. Quite pretty. This ride is much more comfortable.
Back at St Jorge, there's a bus going to Managua directly, the capital. MY hopped on. We didn't have time to say goodbye.
He was going to the Corn Islands. I was heading to Granada.
I took a shared taxi to Rivas mercado. c30.
Bought some fruits: papaya c40, c10 for 6 little bananas. c15 for 12 oranges (turns out too sour, that I use it like lemon to flavor water).
