Monday, September 11, 2023

2023.9.8-11 Devils Postpile - Minaret Lake - Thousand Islands Lake

Day 1, 9/8, Friday. Rainbow Falls TH ‐ Minaret Lake

Checked out the Rainbow Falls first. Nice. Viewing platform. Too bad, that the sun is not shining on the water, so no rainbows. Maybe afternoon is better. On the way back, saw some family with small children going there. Dry and hot, no shade.

Devils Postpile is underwhelming. A national monument. No water at all. It's in Ansel Adams Wilderness. 2 signs at the border for 2 different government agencies.

Left the monument onto Kings River trail going uphill. Found a creek, was filling water. One guy walked by and told us in 15 minutes we'd have to ford a river. So we dumped the water for later. A couple came down told us it's possible to hop over rocks upstream. It took us 30 minutes to reach the river, and we crossed over the rocks. Filled water here, too buggy to stay put. Sprayed ourselves with repellent.

Not far is Johnston Meadow, swampy, buggy. Up and up, dryer, less mosquitoes. We sat down to filter the water we took at the river. Saw many mariposa lily and buckwheat along the way. Dry and dusty.

At this water slide of Minaret Creek, we took a lunch break. Views improved afterwards. More alpine, creeks, boulders, mosquitoes are back.

Another hour or 2 later, we finally reached Minaret Lake. Beautiful and large with a few ponds close by. Many small peninsulas. Quite windy, so not too buggy. Found 2 tents at its south end. We continued to the camp sign on the map. Found many sites. Too windy, so I opted to tent in the trees without much of a view. We are of equal distance to Minaret Lake and this lovely pond.

Again the sun disappeared from the lake very early (by 5pm). Scrambled up a little hill by the camp for some last minute photos. No good sunset. Cooked and ate dinner by the lake. I passed out before 8pm.

Total today ~10 miles (including the detour to Rainbow Falls). Up 2800', down 600'.



Day 2, 9/9, Saturday. Minaret Lake ‐ crossover to Ediza Lake ‐ JMT

Thunder and rain woke me up at 2am. Rained off and on all day. Ended up cooking and eating breakfast in the tent. My umbrella enabled me to fetch water and give boiled water to M.Y.

My tent has a huge flaw using footprint. Or maybe all tents have the same problem. The rain poured down to the fly, draped on to the front bathtub of the tent, and onto the groundsheet, instead of draining into the soil. I dug a hole at the front below the tent, guy out the front, to minimize water pooling onto the groundsheet.

Met a runner while I was moving food into my vestibule. She ran up here today. Couldn't figure out the way to Cecile Lake. I showed her where the route is. She decided to run back. She was shivering. She carried no backpack at all.

Sun came out around noon with occasional drizzle. Met a guy looking for a camp site here. He said he checked weather an hour ago and it was supposed to clear up by now. He scrambled up to Cecile before in dry weather, and even then he said it wasn't easy. He will go back tomorrow.

As we were eating lunch airing out my wet gear, the guy came by and told us that the weather should be dry until tomorrow noon, then it's 30% precipitation. How nice!

Rain stayed at bay. I decided to continue my loop, but cut out Catherine Lake. We packed up and headed up at 3:20pm. Going to Cecilia is quite easy. There, we need to traverse its eastern shore which has a stretch of snow. I put on spikes and crossed the snow. M.Y. opted going around on rocks. He met the same guy who was telling us about the weather a few hours ago. Now, he was resting on a large rock. Later, saw him hopping rocks with ease and disappeared out of sight fairly quickly.

At the pass north of Cecile (right end of the above photo). I saw a steep snow going down without seeing an end. See the left photo of the view looking down from this pass. We took to some track heading right and up. Crossed the ridge then looked for a way to go down to Iceberg Lake. Aptly named, plenty of snow on the lake surface. The right photo is later looking up from Iceburg, the red dot is roughly where I popped out of Cecile, the red track is roughly how we ended up going down.

It's very steep. We picked our way gingerly down. Then it rained, or rather hailed. Put on rainjacket. Now some slabs were a bit slippery. It's all quite sketchy. Twice we had to lower our packs later. Then we hit snow. I glissaded. My phone fell out of my pocket, and my hiking pole couldn't stop my slide, only slowed it. Finally I was stopped by a rock. Hopped up rocks to fetch my phone. Meanwhile M.Y. slid his backpack down. It tumbled down, and his tent fell out of the bottom strap, tumbled a bit more. I wasn't able to catch either. They didn't tumble far, I went to fetch both. M.Y. put on spikes and inched towards the closest rock. Then scrambling down rocks. His face was ashen by the time he reached me. Afterwards, it was some easy rock hopping down to the shore of Iceberg. Out on spikes to traverse the snow by the lake shore. It's not steep here. Easy. But still care is needed. Don't want to fall into the water with icebergs floating in it. Finally we were on trail at the north end of the lake. It took 1.5 hours from the pass down to Iceberg! Maybe 1/4 miles?

Very glad to hit the trail. From now on, it's smooth sailing. A bit wet on the trail. All the way down to Ediza Lake (~20 min) is very pretty. More and more grass, more mellow. According to some account, Ediza is John Muir's favorite lake. It is indeed very pretty, set against the peaks we just stumbled across, and more.
Met a large group of campers. The blue sky ahead (to the north) is promising for tomorrow.

It was 7pm already, getting dark. But We continued, and reached the camp on JMT at 8pm in headlamp. Already very dark when we setup our tents. M.Y. insisted on cooking dinner. As we were boiling water, it rained again! I was able to sit and finish my dinner under my umbrella. M.Y. took his dinner into his tent.

Rain stopped around 9:30. I could see stars.

Total today ~4.3 miles, up 700', down 1400'.



Day 3, 9/10, Sunday. JMT RT to Thousand Islands Lake ‐ Johnston Meadown.

Rain started again in the middle of the night. Late start today. We hiked out just before 8am with a day pack.

Took JMT north towards Garnet Lake. Up and down. Rain on and off. Garnet Lake is quite pretty with many little "islands".

Continued on JMT, passed Ruby Lake, and then Emerald Lake. Both are pleasant. We are running into more and more people, now that we are on JMT.

Thousand Islands Lake is one of those recommended to me. It looks very much like Garnet Lake. It's larger, and more little "islands". We continued on JMT to the view point marked on my Gaia Map. It's definitely a good view point: a large rock outcrop. We took a long break before heading back.

On the way back, took an alternate route between the 2 lakes. Saw a tent. Didn't meet anyone. I do recommend going both ways. A different little lake, more grass. Trail is not as well defined, but not too hard to follow.

Back at camp around 2pm. Lunch, packing up. Hiked down around 3:30pm. We want to drive out as early as possible tomorrow, for fear of the traffic in LA.

Easy trekking on JMT south. It follows Shadow Creek, passing Shadow Lake, Rosalie Lake, Gladys Lake, all not pretty. Saw a deer at Rosalie, and a tent. I didn't bother to take a photo of Gladys Lake.

Settled for the night at Johnston Meadow. Very buggy ~7pm when we arrived. Already dark. I hid inside the tent without cooking dinner. Today is long. 19 miles, 4000' up, 5000' down.



Day 4, 9/11, Monday Hike out

Up before mosquitoes (~5:30am), so I can cook without being molested. Packed up wet tent, and headed out before 7am. It's only 3.7 miles, easy mile. This time, we crossed Kings River by wading. The water is cold. Higher now after 2 days of rain. All the rain in the last 2 days made a difference. The silver lining is that the trail is nicer, not as dusty, and the temperature cooler.

The morning light over Reds Meadow is lovely.

This time, we walked by Devils Postpile up close.

Reached the car around 8:30am. Fetched food from the bear box. The August food packages were still there. Where are their owners? 2 NFS truck arrived, about 7-8 rangers. I reported the falled bear can and poncho. They said they are not local, but doing a tour from Yosemite. They are not familiar with the location I told them about. M.Y. handed them the leftover isbutane can. One young lady claimed it happily.

We drove out a little before 9am. On the way out at the gate, I reported again to the gate agent about the fallen bear can and poncho. She's more concerned, and promised that she'll convey my message to the right department.

Here's the itinerary and profile, map drawn after the trip, so not the live track. The orange is the difficult part, due to lingering snow on steep hill north of Cecile Lake. The green is what I initially planned to do and cut away due to time. The only regret is not going to North Glacier Pass to look at Lake Catherine.

Thursday, September 07, 2023

2023.9.4-7 Kearsarge Pass - Sixty Lakes Basin - Rae Lakes

Day 1, 9/4 Monday. Onion Valley TH ‐ Kearsarge Lake.

Parking is only half full. Last day of the summer break. An outhouse. Garbage bins. Many bear boxes. No shade. A mule outfitter asked if we were coming or going. He said it was very cold last night. It turned out to be true.

We started hiking ~3:30pm. Elevatoin ~9000'. Soon entered John Muir Wilderness. I was going slow, hiking here without acclimatization is tough for the sea level me. Saw 2 grouse, 1 pika.

Beautiful view soon after the first lake: Gilbert. Creek to fill water. Good campsites. A side trail (small log bridge) branches to the left for Matlock Lake and more campsites.

Below Kearsarge Pass is Big Pothole Lake, still has icebergs floating on it. Very pretty. Unfortunately it was in the shade.

The pass is fabulous. Beautiful views in front and behind. So many jagged peaks. As almost always, the park boundary is here, and a sign for no pets, no fire arms. I had a minor headache, so didn't linger here, need lower elevation.

Going down from the pass is very pretty looking at the chain of Kearsarge Lakes. Coyote Mint's pink flowers dotted the rocky slope. We got to the first lake ~7pm. It has a large camp site, a bear box. Already a tent. Continued to the 2nd lake. Pitched our tents.

I sauntered to the 3rd lake for a better view. Sun has set. Didn't have an appetite. Ate a bar. Around 8pm stars showed up. We stared at the sky till 9pm, went to bed before the moon rose. M.Y. claimed that it's the best night sky he's ever seen. He hates camping!


Day 2, 9/5, Tuesday. Kearsage Lake ‐ mid Sixty Lakes basin.

Up at 6am for sunrise. Not very good. Tent fly had ice on it. Waited for sun to dry everything before packing up. Got going ~8:45.

At Bullfrog Lake, met a large Korean group heading out. Turned north on JMT, instead of my initial plan: on to Charlotte Lake, over Gardiner Pass to Gardiner Basin. Because I read a trip report of last summer, claiming that the dotted trails were mostly gone, a lot of route finding and bushwacking. I don't have time for that this trip. We met many JMT/PCT thru-hikers. 3 Japanese claimed their favorites are Morher Pass, Virginia Lake. One more thru-hiker loved Virginia Lake.

On the way north to Glen Pass, after a couple of small ponds, there are 2 beautiful unamed lakes. The lower one still has icebergs floating in it. Between the 2 lakes has good water source. Quite some pink shooting stars lining the creek. The south shore of the upper lake has some flat area, suitable for tents.

Going up to Glen Pass, the view of upper lake never disappears. At 12000' Glen Pass has superior views both sides. We took a long break here. Chatting with 2 PCT girls, one from Vermont, one from Colorado and is moving to Alaska next summer. A chain of ponds just below, some with glacier color. Rae Lakes beyond don't look much from here.

There's a small section of hard snow. Some opted to go around (the 2 PCT girls on the photo, even though they carried ice axes). We put on microspheres and went over the snow to minimize elevation gain. Not bad.

The view is lovely on the way down. The lingering snow made everything prettier. At one creek crossing, I stopped to fill water. An older lady doing JMT alone was there resting, She's very slow. As the elevation gets lower, the Rae Lakes looked better and larger.

At the upper Rae Lake (10600'), we took the 60 Lakes trail to the left. Another ~600' gain. On the way, very nice view of the Rae Lakes, and the ponds.

Once leveled off (~11200'), a beautiful lake. I could happily camp here. But it's still early. Soon we are going down to the basin. Here is an overview of what's lying ahead. Crossing a large creek, the trail now going on the left (W) side of the creek. More and more ponds and lakes. All picturesque. Also more and more mosquitos.

Picked this prime spot for camp. I'm too tired to try scouting Gardiner Pass, let alone climbing Mt. Cotter, even though it was not yet 4pm. Washed my shirt and socks. Laid them on trees to dry in the sun. However, this basin is aligned northsouth, with high peaks both east and west. Before I had a chance to take a photo, the sun was gone from us and the lake by 5pm! My socks were semi-ok. I left the wet shirt out which solidified the next morning (frozen)!

Cooked dinner. Watch the sun disappearing from the mountain tops. M.Y. was troubled by mosquitoes, ate his dinner inside his tent. I went to bed before it got all dark. Set alarm for 10pm for the stars, and a proper bio break without mosquitoes. The stars were again brilliant.



Day 3, 9/6, Wedesday. Sixty Lakes Basin ‐ crosscountry ‐ Upper Rae Lake

Again ice on tents. Waited for sun to dry it. No hurry. We left at about the same time. Continued down (N) of the basin. More lakes and ponds. All very pretty. Not a single human in sight. I over-shot my turn, and had to double back. Picked our way over the creek and ponds, towards Basin Notch.

Fairly easy to get to a pass south of the notch. However it looks rather steep on the east side. Short scramble up the notch for a better view of the land. Spotted an easy downhill further south. Walked around a butte to the pass south. Here, a visible track leading over and down to Rae Lakes valley. It's so easy going, and we went too far down. I should've checked my map sooner. Now we had to scramble up. Finally hit JMT, just north of Arrowhead Lake.

Very grassy along the river, in fact, we had to jump over rocks to cross the river, on trail. Some little white flowers. Quite pretty. Arrowhead Lake, very big and pretty. This pointy granite is Fin Dome.

Lower Rae Lake, is prettier. Middle Rae Lake, closer to the high peaks around Glen Pass, is even prettier. We made a long break at middle Rae Lake, which M.Y. claimed to be his favorite spot. Passed a ranger station, on the east side of the trail (not sure if it can see the lake though). More bear box at the main camping area. The trail here mostly has a view of the lakes, also being on PCT, the trail is well maintained, so really nice walking. We were walking fairly slowly, taking too many photos.

We couldn't find the trail junction to Dragon Lake. Walked back and forth. Saw a faint path at this meadow near upper Rae Lake. Went over to it. Stashed our backpacks behind some trees. Packed a day pack with water, food, water filter and headlamp just in case, a jacket. I put my bear-can out under a different clump of willows.

The trail is faint at times, a little scrambly. Nothing difficult. Dragon Lake is super pretty. Mosquitos at lake shore. I scrambled up its west slope, and took a long break, hiding behind a bigger rock for shade. M.Y. ate his late lunch (~2pm).

Back at the meadow. Found a guy in a mosquito head net painting. I went to take his photo. He asked me to snap a few on his phone too. He's staying from Monday till Sat. His pack is 70 ponds! He has an old external framed pack, a lot of painting materials + 6 days of food. He inquired about the trail to Dragon Lake, as he planned to paint there the next day. There's a limit of 2 nights at Rae Lakes, due to its popularity.

We picked up our backpacks, looked for a camp at the upper lake. There's a more serious water crossing between these 2 lakes. Still early. About 4pm. Too many bugs, so I hid in my tent reading. Again, the sun disappeared from us at 5pm, even though the mountains were still lit. Walked to the shore to cook dinner. Too many mosquitoes, M.Y. took his food to eat inside his tent. After dinner, we walked around trying to take some sunset shots. I set up an alarm at 10:30 tonight for stars, because the moon rises later and later every day. Another brilliant night sky.



Day 4, 9/7, Thursday. Upper Rae Lake ‐ car.

Instead of camping another night at Gilbert Lake, we decided to hike out and stay in a motel. This will allow enough time for the next hike.

Still ice on the tent. We took off at 8am packing up wet tents. Now repeating more or less what we've already hiked on, going south bound on JMT. This is very pretty, so good to repeat. Filled water half way up to Glen Pass. I again took the snow with spikes. M.Y. chose to drop down on rocks and go around the snow. Met 3 PCT thru hiker from Czech Republic, one guy wearing a pair of kids shorts full of yellow ducks. A cheerful husband carrying a very large pack, his poor wife struggling behind. One guy with the same Gossemer pack cut his foam pad in half, replacing his pack foam with half of the sleeping pad.

We turned east to Kearsarge Pass, higher than our trail in. Looking down Bullfrog Lake is very different from standing next to it, equally beautiful. M.Y. was running low on water. Only one creek about 1/4 mile west of the junction. Filled water. Met a couple from LA here, cutting short their JMT, because the snow slowed their progress, so they are running out of supply. They asked for a ride, which I'm more than happy to offer. They also gave us a small bottle of bug spray that they found on trail.

The view over Kearsarge Pass is clearer today. A lot of people at the pass. Almost looked like a party.

We reached the car by 4pm. Picked up our food we from the bear box. My bananas looked very sad. I offered the 2 better looking ones to the LA couple. The wife took one. Rearranged the trunk. Managed to fit one of their packs in. The other one has to sit on their laps. Chatted with them on the drive down. They liked Marie Lake, Lyll Canyon, Cathedral Lakes in Yosemite. Dropped them off at Independence. 90F out. M.Y. was again feeling sick.

Saturday, September 02, 2023

2023.9.2. Teneriff by bus

9/2 Saturday. Took the Trailhead Direct bus to hike Teneriffe, this time with a 24lb pack. First time taking the bus this year. I got to chat with the old guy sitting next to me. He and his friend are biking from the town of North Bend. He said he does this year round (2 buses to North Bend when Trailhead Direct is not running). First time I noticed that this small bus can carry 4 bikes!

Not setting speed but carrying a 20+lb pack. I had a company today. Talking slows you down! Reached the summit at noon. Still, I was sweating like a pig. A whiff of smoke at the summit from time to time. Mt Rainier was very hazy. Saw a strange clearcut.

One other reason is to meet up with M.Y. to talk about the upcoming Sierras trip. He brought the new duffle bag, which we tried to fit both our backpacks. It worked. This cuts 50% of the luggage fee.

We took Kamikaze up, and the normal trail down, out to Si. Total ~10 miles, 3800'. M.Y. was testing his new boots. I found that I need a different pair. It was much warmer than I had expected (83°F). M.Y. was having heat problem again. He brought a lot of water, and was dousing his head with cold water from time to time. But problem persisted. Even on the bus home (very lucky this time, waited for less than 5 minutes), he looked sick. Odd, someone who grew up in the desert.

On my walk home, called REI about my tent's tension cord. I was told that having it fixed by REI takes a week, but I should be able to do it myself. Detoured to REI. The guy at the rental gear desk is super nice. Showed me what I need to do of my particular tent, and measured my poles and cut the cords. I replaced the tension cord later at night.

Friday, September 01, 2023

2023.9.1. Painting stairs + Pier 62

9/1. Friday. I happened on to this group painting the stairs, when walking by Amazon.

There's a waterfront block party this afternoon. I didn't get to leave home until ~6pm. Caught the waterfront shuttle at outside of Clippers (Pier 69) and got off at Pier 56. I went to Pier 62, even though there were activities in other locales too, might be too late then. Bustling at Pier 62. Face painting, making paper hats, painting on a large canvus on the group. A stage with musicians. The Aquarium has a booth talking about the new expansion underway. Friends of the Waterfront has a booth talking about the planned waterfront. I'm looking forward to this planned future. Looks really nice.