Saturday, November 27, 2021

2021.11.25-28 Valladolid, Yucatan - Wintering in Mexico, part 2

11/25, Thursday. Tour of Chichen Itza.
The pickup time is 6:50am on my ticket. I went to the pickup hotel ahead of time, near Ado station. Quite a few were lingering outside waiting for various tours. My pickup never came. So after half an hour, I walked to my ticket agent, and he claimed that it was yesterday. Anyway, after a bunch of calls, a small van came and picked me up, and took me to the hotel zone, a giant operation with 3 buses going to Chichen Itza alone. The guide told me that they were going to Valladolid first instead of last, so couldn't drop me off in the city.

Turn clock back 1 hour when we cross the border from Quintana Roo to Yucatan. Same timezone as in Chicago.

1st stop, the city of Valladolid. We were given 20 minutes. I walked to my AirBnb just to check out the neighborhood. Only had time to use the toilet before I had to be back on bus. Did find out that the ADO station here has free wifi.

2nd stop, cenote Saamal, right outside of Valladolid (~3 miles west). It's very busy (lots of Russians). The cenote is large, pretty. Watch your steps going down the stairs, as they are wet. There are platforms at different levels for you to admir the water. It's very clear. You have to wear (rent) life vest in order to swim here. I didn't swim here. Walked around the property -- still being worked on: ground cleared and old buildings restored. Quite nice. In addition to a large restaurant, there are multiple cafes and souvenir shops. There's a bike rental here. Not sure where to, on a bike.

3rd stop Cooperativa Maya Ixchel. One of the guides on the bus claims that he's from this Maya community. You can buy a asstrology birth certificate hand painted in Mayan pictograph on a papyrus for $20. All you need is write down your birthday and name, and when the bus depart, the certificate will be ready for you. A large gift shop selling obsidian rocks and clothes. The store employees gave demostration outside of the stores in multiple groups. There was also a guy dressed like a shaman waving smoking plants and chanting. After all this, we were led to Restaurante Yaxkin right behind the store. It's large and nicely decorated. A buffet, but you are not allowed to serve yourselves except for desert. Every so often, a couple in traditional dress will dance with half filled beer bottle on their heads. When we board the bus, we were given a shot of alcohol to taste. I didn't drink it. Was told it's very sweet. Among the ingrediants are honey, anise, a local herb that I don't recall the name. Then bottles with your photo printed in front are passed down the bus. If you keep the bottle, it's $20. I avoid all photos, so don't have a bottle.

Last stop is Chichen Itza. The state of Yucatan imposes a hefty price on foreigners. All ruins have 2 tickets, one for IHAH, one for the state. Yucatan has 3 levels of entrance fee: foreigner, Mexican, Yucatan residents. Mine costs a wooping US$26, out of which, 80+% goes to the state. This tour took care of the entrance fee. While lining up for the temperature check at the gate, I chatted with 2 small Asian girls from California who just completed Iron Man at Cozumal.

The main pyramid is surely grand. A lot of people. I took this photo when the park was about to close. It sits on water. Our guide made us clap in unison 3x3, and the pyramid will echo. At the large ballcourt next door, he also claps in the center axis, the echo is higher pitched. After the guided portion, we didn't have much time until the closure. They started to fence off various parts and chased tourists out at 4:30pm. I did go to the sacred cenote. Still has water.

On the way back, I asked to be dropped off at the exist to the cenote. It just past 6pm, but already pitch dark. I waited for a collectivo for about 10 minutes, and then started walking. There's a gravel trail for bikes and walkers all the way to the city of Valladolid.

11/26, Friday, Valladolid.
Valladolid is a nice little town, good base for some cenotes and Chichén Itza. It's one of the Magic Towns in Mexico. Pretty center plaza, great cathedral.
The government palace is open to visit. Go up to the 2nd floor for 4 large paintings of the history of this area, and great view of the plaza. At Maxi-go, the only tour agent who arranges trips to Rio Lagardos. I left my name and my Whatsapp number (everyone in Mexico uses Whatsapp, so I installed it just before I arrived). They need at least 3 person to make the trip. It is expensive, about US$95, entrance tickets not included.

I walked around the city center. Then went to look for Cenote Zazi. The streets around it were being repaved. No one was allowed to walk there. The market is also this area, not very big.

Visited Convento San Bernardino (40 pesos). The original site was built on top of a cenote. Photos of the excuvation were shown in a small room with English description. Nice ground. It was getting too hot, and I went back to my AC room. Most stores close between noon and 4pm.

Got a message from Maxi-go. There're enough tourists for the tour. Had to get cash to pay, otherwise, they charge you extra 5%. 6 tourists total. We were to return 5-5:30pm. I bought an ADO ticket to Mérida online for tomorrow 6:15pm.

Packed up for tomorrow. Threw away 1 shirt, 1 pair of socks.

11/27, Saturday, tour to Ek Balam and Rio Lagartos
I had miscommunication in the morning, and missed the pickup. I finally called the office, and I was told they were looking for me for an hour. But I hadn't received any message. One guy drove me to meet the group at Ek Balam.

Ek Balam (456 pesos ~US$22). Not too crowded here. The guide showed us an orange flower, called Cirocote(?), which the color is used in dye. The most notible structure are the stucco fangs on the middle platform. Not sure if it's a good idea of the new plaster of the giant teeth, even if they were like that in originally. Some round corners. The view on the top pyramid is quite good. The execuvated ground is not very large, so doesn't take long to walk around.

2nd stop, Las Coloradas, the pink salt pond of Sal Sol. There's a promotional video playing in the brand-new modern visitor center, where you can use the nice bathroom and purchase ticket to walk on to one dike to the middle of the pond (290 pesos). None of my group was willing to shell out the extra dough to walk in the heat. Because you can see the pink pond from the parking lot. The pond just on the left side is of a clear greenish color.

Last stop, Rio Lagartos. We had lunch at a restaurant at waterfront. Because of the hiccup this morning, all other tourists were given a free drink. Then we boarded 2 boats going along the river, under the main bridge to town (you can also hire a boat right there, so shorter drive). Saw 5 croc, a couple of black hawks, 4 ospray, 1 flying vulture, egrets (small one has yellow feet). Many camerons, pelicans. A couple of termite nests. An "ojo de agua" - a waterhole with clear fresh water. Fairly relaxing. The goal is to find flamingos. At one spot, we walked over some very muddy shore to see these magnificent birds. A bit too far for my phone camera. They are more red than I thought. Then, we were told to smear this sulphoric smelling mud on to our skin if we like. At the end of the tour, we were driven to the ocean front, to wash out the mud plaster, and swim.

Back to ADO station by 6pm. A litte traffic getting into the town. The bus departed almost on time. It's a large van. Comfortable, but no bathroom. Arrived at Merida ~9m. Pick up the key in a lockbox. No one else in the house.

Thursday, November 25, 2021

2021.11.22-24 Cancun, Quintano Roo - Wintering in Mexico, part 1

I've thought about retiring in Mexico for awhile, at least during the winter. I've visited Mexico 3 times already, each for only a week (2009, twice in 2018). This time, I plan to stay longer and feel how to be a semi resident, on top of doing some tourist things. My ticket to Cancun last year around the same time was canceled, like everyone else. But Interjet went bankrupt, so I guess there goes my $. This time I flew on Delta.

11/22 Monday. Arriving at Cancun (same timezone as NYC).
My flight is at 7:15am. I went to the Link tunnel at 5:20, already quite a few waiting with suitcases. But the train didn't arrive for another 15 min. I arrived at TSA at 6:30, barely made to my TSA reservation of 6:15 (officially they give you +/- 15 min). The lady at the checkup didn't say anything. So I passed most of the line, I'm surprised how many travellers this early, on a Monday.

When I arrived at the gate, after taking the train to S gate, filling water, I heard my name called. They needed to check my document. Folks were boarding already. However, at boarding, 2 minutes later, I was asked for my passport again.

The flight was uneventful. View over the Cascades at the start of the journey is very pretty. After that was boring, either the brown Texas or the blue but featureless Caribbean. I was given a window seat. My seat mates were 3 generation of a Russian family from Spokane. The grandparents are my age. The guy next to me is very nice. He picked up stuff I dropped and passed trash to the stewardess, but never said a word to me.

Plane landed earlier than the published arrival time. Long lines at immigration. After, I was random selected to open my bag for agriculture inspection. She took my smoked dry sausage. I don't think she's right. Vacuum sealed store bought, not yet opened. I have two. She found 1. It was 29C, too hot. As soon as I left the cold terminal (AC in full blast), I started to sweat a bit. Bought an ADO ticket to town (M$98) and waited in the shade. There's a bus every hour I think. Waited for awhile, then, the bus went to 2 other terminals picking up passengers. The bus was full. A lady from UK sat next to me. She's been in Yucatan before, and is heading to Chiapas. We exchanged tips. Her favorite spots in Quantana Roo are Bacalar Lake and Mahahual. Traffic going into the city. I got off the bus and walked to the hotel, about 15-20 min.

Once settled down, I walked about the neighborhood. Av. Tulum is the main thoroughfare. Super busy, tons of shops all selling the same clothes or shoes. I went to supermarket Soriana looking for a folding umbrella. No. There are only 2 umbrellas in the store. Big heavy ones. Bought some bread and yogurt.

Researched where to go. Bought a tour on TripAdvisor to Tulum+Coba+cenote for Wednesday (US$44), operated by Sat Mexico. Hoping to be dropped off at Tulum.

11/23, Tuesday. Isla Mujeres.
Rain is in the forecast. 9am, the banks open. I went to one to use its ATM, took 3k pesos (~$150). Left most in my room, and then walked to Puerto Juarez to take a ferry to Isla Mujeres. Ultramar is the main operator here. M$450 round trip. Leaving on the hour. Lots of people. It's a big catamaran. 30 minutes. I probably will try a different operator next time. The boat is super cold in the cabin, and all seats taken.

Despite of the dark clouds, the water is still quite blue if you look straight down. Diesel golf carts are plowing throughout the pavement. The main street is choked with traffic, that you can walk faster than the carts. I went to Playa Norte, quite pretty. Lots of people and restaurants. Saw some dark patches in the water, mistook them for coral. I left my pack in the shade of some palms. Put my phone, pants with money in my dry bag. Took it with me when I went in to snorkel. No fish. It's some reed like plants on the sand bottom. Then it rained. I must have not sealed it correctly. Sea water got in. My phone died.

Without map, I didn't go too far. Walked to Yonque Reef. East of the private bridge to Mia Reef hotel. More windy here. Some waves. Rocky on the east side, sandy on the west, some fish.

No longer in the mood of exploring, I took the return ferry at 2:30pm. Less people now. I went to the upper deck, so not to catch cold inside.

Took a random mini bus back to Av. Tulum. Only M$10. Showered and washed everything. No email from my tour. Emailed them asking for meeting location and time. I was told that Tulum is the first stop, so I went to front desk to extend my stay here for another night.

Went to check out Mercado 23. They were closing. Bought a cactus palm, because I saw a guy cutting the needles. Bought 2 bananas and some guanabara. Went to Paque de Pa!apas. It's a park of cement, good for demonstration and pop performance. A ring (or rather 2 rings) of cement umbrellas provide seats for all the food stalls around the arena.

On my way back, I bought a trip to Chichen Itza for ~US$60. Probably I was ripped off, because the guy promised that the entrance ticket is included. I checked the tour operator online, and it has only negative reviews. Booked 2 nights in Valladolid, and researched what to do there.


11/24, Wednesday. Tulum-Cobá-cenote tour.
7:55 pickup at Hacienda Adhara, less than 10 min walk. I was there earlier. The van didn't arrive until 8:08. We were driven to the junction with hotel zone, where large coaches for different destinations were waiting. I was the last one on bus from Cancun. At Tulum city, 8 more tourists came on board. Now the bus was filled to the gill. First thing on the bus, we paid the 290 peso for the cenotes. Everyone was given a sticker (2 different stickers for 2 tours. Without Coba and lunch, it's $20 cheaper).

1st stop Tulum archeology site. Before the entrance, they use instant themometer to check your temperature. It turns out, this is very common here, almost every indoor space does this check, and pushes you hand sanitizer. At the entrance gate, instead of using all 4 lanes with turnpike, we single-filed through one lane and a guy tore our tickets.

Tulum is very small. I think I walked around twice, that's after the guided part of the tour. The view of the coast is pretty. However, the stairs going down to the beach were all closed. Also, almost all structures were fenced off. Pelican and other shore birds may stand in for your photo. I also saw quite a few iguanas resting among the rocks. There's a small dry cenote, with a guard house above. The "observatory" is entirely gone. Only has a plaque.

I got back to the bus only in time to pick up my lunch, ate it on the bus.

2nd stop Cobá is not worth going, especially now climbing to the temple is prohibited. The ruin lies next to two good size lakes, and we drove by one. It's known of its 42m high pyramid Nohoch Mul and stelae. However, you cannot climb any pyramids (due to COVID) and all stelea are so eroded that you see nothing. The site is larger, but mostly still buried. You can rent a bike, and take a tricycle taxi. We were not allowed much time, nor really needed. I did walk (almost ran) to Macanxoc Group, close to Macanxoc Lake (but almost no view of the lake). It not worth going (certainly not running), similar but small structure in every other Mayan ruins. I was late back to the bus. But I wasn't the last person.

3rd stop is Canamayte Cenote & Ecopark. The first cenote is right next to the change and shower area. You have to shower (be seen wet) before you are allowed to get into the cenotes. The cost of lock and life vest are included in the tour. Quite a lot of people there. It's too shallow to swim. I took a photo and followed half of the group to check out the enclosed cenote a bit further. On the way, I lost the key to the locker, so had to walk back slowly to find it. Thus I lost the group, and ended up looking for a cenote closeby on Google map. There're 2 more on the map that's also close by, but not close enough to walk bare feet and in bathing suit. Zemway is still under construction. The workers were very surprised to see a half naked tourist wander into their job site. I turned back, found the narrow turn to my destination. The last couple of my group were just coming up from the cenote. I went downstairs and I was the only person in the water. Fabulous. I did walk up and put on a floating vest (just loop around my waist, not wearing through my arms. I like this better.) and went back to the crystal clear pool. I don't know how deep it is, I could feel the bottom. Dimly lit, so my phone doesn't do the justice to its beauty. There are little fish, maybe 1 inch. They didn't come to clean my feet when I sat on the deck, as I was told they would. What a great ending to a sweaty day.

Traffic going back is bad. Leaving Tulum is slow, going into and out of Playa de Carmen is bad. A few of us were put on a smaller van for hotel drop-offs. This van goes along the hotel zone east of Nichupé Lagoon. At night, it looks very pretty with lots of light and action. I was dropped off ~9:30pm.

mapPacked up, prepared to go to Yucantan state tomorrow, on the tour to Chichen-Itza.

Saturday, November 13, 2021

2021.11.13. Stave Falls Powerhouse

11/13, Saturday. Rain is not expected until after noon. Dad and I headed out ~10am for Stave Falls Dam and Powerhouse. The power house, now a visitor center is sparkly clean, especially consider its 110 year-old age. 5 turbines (one open on the side to reveal its innards) with speed regulator (controlled by water and human) and a crew of 7 in the old days to produce ~52MW energy. Around 2000, it was decommissioned after the newer power house (with 2 45MW turbines, but so twice as much output) went online. Public is not allowed into the new power plant. A nice big picnic balcony overlooking the placid water below. We saw two SUPs here. A small tug boat fixed in the middle of the water. This visitor center also has some donated old home electrical appliances. Many hands on (pushing a button) experiments for kids. One lady demo-ed a high voltage Tesla Coil. Dad and I were the only visitor today. $8 entrance fee is a bit stiff. For propoganda, why not run it as a free facility, like most dams.

More cars were parked in the lot. We walked south to Hayward Lake, a recreation area with a boat launch, and a large bathroom. The lake isn't intereting. Stave Lake, however is pretty. Probably looks even better if it's clear. By then, it started to drizzle.

We continue the drive on Dewdney Truck Rd for a bit to Steelhead Falls. On the way, saw high pressure water released from the dam/new powerhouse. The parking lot was half full for this rainy day. Quite a few kids. The trail is short and with good tread. A nice bridge over Brown Creek, and a smaller bridge over Steelhead Creek. Continue after the bridge, and going down to a view platform. A bit wet and rocky this part. The waterfall is quite big and gushing. Well worth the short hike. Going back to the car is hiking up, which tied dad.

I drove to another waterfall in the area. Rolley Falls in Rolley Lake Provincial Park. The lake isn't interesting. A big camp ground with many RVs. There's a short trail at the end of the campground. We parked in a campsite, and walked in. The trail is narrow and muddy. Dad gave up quickly. It's not worth the trouble of seeing this small drop, especially in the rain.


A note on border crossing. Recently US and Canada border has allowed fully vaccinated visitors to enter. However, Canada requires a negative COVID-19 PCR test within 72 hours of reaching the border. I had to apply via ArriveCan.ca, where I upload a photo of my vaccination card, book a day/time to cross the border, apart from entering passport info. I was issued a code. No public land transportation going across the border, so I rented a car. I arrived at the Canadian border around noon. 3 lanes open, only 1 car. So it was very fast. I did stop by the duty-free shop. I was the only customer. When I returned around 9pm to the US border, only 1 lane open, no car. This is my first visit since the lock-down. However, the requirement of a recent negative test is rather a hinderance to frequent travels.

Friday, November 12, 2021

2021.11.12. Yefim Bronfman with Vancouver Symphony Orchestra

11/12, Friday night. Three of us drove to Orpheum Theatre to atttend VSO's concert. VOS blocks every 2 seats as COVID precaution, unless you are together, so we had to call to buy 3 tickets together. Street parking wasn't hard to find, because we arrived early (~7:15pm for the 8pm concert). However, either you drop coins into the old meter or pay by the phone, and my phone doesn't work here. I wasn't able to find a payment machine nearby. After paying parking (CA$2.78), we walked around. The streets were very lively, many bars and theatres with lines of people outside. No wonder the meters work until 10pm here.

Tonight VSO showcased Yefim Bronfman in Beethoven's Piano Concerto #3. Program:
  • Andrew Balfour: Pyotr’s Dream
  • Beethoven: Piano Concerto No. 3 in C minor
  • Tchaikovsky: Symphony No. 4
Bronfman played a Beethoven sonata as encore. Last music director Tovey conducted today's concert.

I'm disappointed to find that program notes are not freely available. It is not obvious where they are sold. Nothing is online either. Another suprise is that patrons can bring their wine inside the auditorium: a spill hazard for the red carpet and other people's clothes.

Saturday, November 06, 2021

2021.11.6. Ray Chen with Seattle Symphony

11/6, Saturday. 8pm. Last artist director Morlot conducted tonight's performance. An announcer came on to notify us that due to last minute personelle chanbge, they couldn't do Shostakovich's Symphony 11 according to the schedule. Instead, we will be hearing Beethoven's 3rd Symphony, and the Thursday's performance will be available for us to stream online. I wonder who had to leave, a percussionist?

Ray Chen is today's soloist for Tchaikovsky violin concerto in D major, op 35. Afterwards, he played his own arrangement of an Australian folk song Waltzing Matilda as an encore. He's quite energetic. During Thursday's performance, he managed to break a string on his violin.

The theatre was quite full (over 80%). The young couple sitting next to me was problemetic. The lady decided to leave in the middle of the 2nd movement -- very disturbing. The boyfriend left during intermission and didn't return for the 2nd half. None of the doors along 3rd ave was open. Only 1 door on Union was open, causing a very slow exedus after the concert. Not sure why.