I reserved the backcountry overnight permit on Mt Rainier's website in June for my favorite section of Wonderland Trail. The 3 national parks in WA have 3 different reservation schemes :(. Rainier doesn't offer walk-up permit this year. I was allowed to change once without fee. So I postponed a week to this weekend after reading trip reports. I received the permit by email 2 days before my trip.
8/1, Saturday. Cloudy all morning. Long line on the road to Sunrise before the park gate. They were letting only 20 cars at a time. Big yellow signs warning "road work, expect delay". I didn't see any road work (maybe after our TH). We waited from 11:30-1:15! Walked to the restroom, and picked a permit bag and twine from the trailer parked outside of the closed Wilderness Info Center. Around 1:10, the "gatekeeper" stepped outside of his booth, and waved in every car, without checking tickets.
Found a parking spot right away next to the TH. That's unexpected. The trail in the forest is well groomed and somewhat busy and dusty. Most people wore facial covering when passing others. A large % of old folks, Indians and Chinese didn't care. After crossing the roaring Fryingpan Creek, the view opens up. Tons of sitka velarian, pearly everlasting and mountain aster. The thimbleberry bushes had no fruit yet, just flowers. Quite a lot of hikers coming out.
Near the Summerland camp area, a ranger checked our permit. He carries a red shot gun, with large letters "Less lethal" printed on it. He asked about food storage - I carried a bear can. We continued towards Panhandle Gap. Paused often for photos.
Near the two little unnamed lake/tarns, we found a campsite out of sight, next to a snow patch with a tiny creek formed by the melting snow. Relaxed by the lake. Cooked dinner with a boleto picked in the forest. No bugs.
After dinner, we scrambled up Point 6945. Not as easy as it seems. Tile-like rocks, not stable. On the way a carpet of lupine. The view on the top is excellent. Some measuring equipment and a solar panel. Saw a family of goats hiking in the trees up there. They left after they saw us. Waited here until sunset, before going down to camp.
8/2, Sunday. Sunny -> cloudy. I set my alarm clock at 5:30am, and walked up the rock pile north of the camp. I spotted a group of goats walking over the trail. I walked to the lakes, and they walked over the steep snow slopes on the far side of the lakes. I counted 20! There were 3 babies. Reflection of the sunlit mountains in the water is beautiful. Not another human in sight.
After breakfast, repacked, we headed over Panhandle Gap, and down to Indian Bar. Some snow near the gap, and over. All fairly minor and easy. At the gap, there are side trails going to both sides. I'd like to check out Sarvant Mountain. Gentle hills tinted blue right now. Looks very inviting. Should have stayed for 2 nights. Onanapecosh Park is mostly pink by heather. Amazing view of the valley carved out at the source of Onanapecosh River. ~10 thin waterfalls. A grouse mom with 5 chicks. Saw 2 hikers, 2 runners, +1 elderly through-hiker going around Wonderland Trail. It's his 8th and last day. He certainly looked haggard.
Continued on, loosing elevation. Zigzag on a long slope of endless lupine, velarian and arnica, some paintbrush. Met 2 groups of hikers coming up from Indian Bar. They told us about a bear between here and Indian Bar. That certainly picked my interest. However, we didn't see the bear.
Indian Bar (5120') has a nice shelter facing the river. Multiple braids, rocks, and monkey flowers in the middle of the river. Abundant flowers all around. A small stretch of muggy forest before reaching the river. Could be buggy here (as reported by my friend who camped here last week).
Retraced our steps back to the camp, pausing more for photos, while gaining all the elevation back. Started seeing hikers as we approached Panhandle Gap. More and more people as we hiked out. Learned a new (to me) flower: fuzzy Elmera. Washed away my sweat and dipped my feet in the bigger lake, this time there were other people. Packed up the tent, and headed out. Met the same ranger, and he remembered me!
Filled gas in Enumclaw. Uneventful drive. No protest warning on I-5 in downtown area. Got home ~6:30pm, and concluded a relaxing and spectacular weekend. No mosquito bites!
Total ~18 miles, ~5500' (21K steps on Saturday, ~38K steps on Sunday). I think I make this an annual retreat. Next time stay 2 nights in Sarvant area, and walk out on Monday: less people.