Saturday, August 19, 2023

2023.8.19. Mount Skokomish via Lake of the Angels

2023.8.19. Saturday. Went to Olympics to escape the smoke. D.R. planned to scramble Skokomish and Stone, no one else signed up. I got picked up at 6:05am by the library. Probably should have started earlier if I were to climb both peaks, because for my speed, over 7300' gain would need more time. Arrived at Putvin TH towards Lake of the Angels shortly after 8 (D.R. drives fast). Chilly (~52°F). About a dozen cars parked here. There's an out-house, but I prefer trees. Ate a banana, started hiking at 8:20am.

The first 1.2 miles to a decommissioned road is normal. It gains ~830'. I could barely keep up with D.R. here. We didn't visit the grave marker of Carl Putvin, a trapper. Turn left for a very short walk to another trail sign: 2 miles to the lake, 1 mile to the park boundary. Soon after crossing the road, the steepness increases. I was lagging behind more and more, short breath and pounding heart, and sweat poured out. Had to stop multiple times and drink. Eating trail mix wasn't helping. Ate an energy bar to pump up my blood sugar (probably should have eaten a larger breakfast). D.R. had to wait for me again and again. Once the trail becomes scrambly, our ascent slowed, and I was able to continue without stopping.

Reached a small pond shortly after 10am, about 1.5 miles from the road, 2200'. 7 minutes later, it's the national park boundary. A bit swampy here. Some short wooden wooden board, muddy at times. No mosquito problem, probably due to the dry summer. The map shows the pond inside the park, which is in conflict with the sign.

After this meadowy area (not many flowers), a reprise from the steep ascent, the trail gets steep again before easing into the basin where Lake of the Angels is. Saw a young black bare before the lake. This photo is from D.R.

The lake is quite pretty. Saw a guy fishing (not catching). There are tiny fish in the shallow lake. Water is very clear. The outlet of the lake has lupine and monkey flowers, very small flow. Had a 20 min break, and refilled water.

Walked the south shore of the lake. At its western end, saw two small tents next to each other. Didn't see any other tents or people. Not sure where were the people who came from all those vehicles at the TH. Now easy scramble over the boulders towards the head of the North Fork Skokomish River. No water though. There are tracks here and there, but doesn't seem to matter which way to take. At a saddle where the park boundary is (no sign), dropping down, and began a long traverse on a steep-ish scree slope. Below the saddle (outside of the park), there's a small lake, and 2 patches of snow.

We stayed high on the way in, got down to the snow on the way out. Both are equaly unpleasant, but not too bad. The scree isn't too soft to sink my feet in, so, a bit slow going. The best flower is the slope after this bare section. Equally steep. Traversing all that. Took ~1 hour.

Then, started scrambling up. Some soft scree here, before the rocky section. Too many peaks to know which one to go for. Had to check my GPS location all the time. The last 10 minutes is fun scramble. Slate like rock. Not too cramply. Saw Olympic Bluebell on the rocks here, that made my day! Cross over a ridge, got down a notch and narrow ridge scramble. The sharp top is full of wasps and flies. I walked NW a bit for a better view below and to the north. Sat under a big rock for my well-deserved lunch. ~2 miles, 2000' from the lake.

Headed down at 1:05. Back at the lake at 2:30pm. On the scree slope, we tried going lower, but similar. I was able to fill my water bottle with snow on the way back. Started to smell smoke from time to time. I managed to fall on a rock near the bottom, strained my back muscle. No problem walking, but having pain at some positions. I decided to quit for good, to relax at the lake, so D.R. can pick up his normal speed for Stone. That's another 1 mile ~1700'! Refilled water, ate more snack. He left for Stone at 3pm. I washed my feet in the lake, found a big log in the shade to sit on, and read a few pages of my book.

I headed out a little before 4pm, and reached the car in 2 hours: not much faster than going up, but I wasn't in a hurry. The air was getting visibly worse. Saw a grouse. Multiple water sources along the way. Encountered quite a few backpackers coming up. Passed one couple, the husband was moving very slowly. Later, saw 2 guys carrying a pair of cruches. They told me that the husband I saw earlier tore his ACL. Passed another young couple. Below the road, saw 3 rescue members, two of them pushing a stretcher on single fat wheel.

Back in the car, changed clothing, took a nap. D.R. returned at 7pm. So fast. He complained about the air. I'm not surprised. It's much worse than earlier. He said that Stone had almost a trail the entire way. The scree to the saddle isn't bad. It took him only one hour to get to the summit.

Accident on I-5 causing delay. Hazy all around. I was dropped off ~9:15. Total for me is about 5500' gain 11 miles.