12/1, day 14, Friday. Overcast. I did my photo upload in the morning, after drying my phone all night with the battery out. It's still acting a bit weird (turns off by itself sometimes), but its usable. So a late start today. After checking out, I walked one block to the bus stop for the 8:15 bus to Belmopan. The bus arrived at 8:20, not bad. It made a few stops in the city, and we were off nonstop (supposedly. We did pick up /drop off a couple of more people along the way). This is an express. Modern, AC, reclining seats, most comfortable bus during my 2 week trip. $2. I put on another shirt, because it was a bit too cold. At 9:20, I got off the bus at Belmopan. At 9:30, I got on a local bus towards Dangriga. This was a US school bus. No AC. I asked to be dropped off at St Herman's Cave ($1). I read that Hummingbird Highway is pretty, but it's just like any other roads, maybe less developed.
This small Blue Hole National Park is managed by the Audubon Society. At the ticket office ($4), the girl showed me where the trails are, and what I can do, and let me leave my bag in her office. Everything is well marked here.
I walked along Lowland Trail (flat) to the cave, with water and flashlight. There was a small group with a guide. The trail in the cave goes all the way to the other entrance. But without a guide, I'm only allowed 200m. Not interesting. 
I walked back along Highland Trail. It does go high. At the highest point of the trail, there's a bench, some view of the distance. The suggested time of the loop is 1 hour. But mosquitoes made me swift. I was back in 30 minutes.
Now I applied repellent, picked up my pack from the ticket office, and headed to the Blue Hole via Dusky Antbird Trail. Lots of mosquitoes. Armed with picaridin, I still didn't dare to stop long to look for birds. Saw one robin size, brown bird, long black tail, white tip. I didn't like this muggy trail. Maybe better early in the morning when it's cooler, and with a ornithologist guide:) 1 miles, about 25 minutes. At the end, I was looking forward to a swim.
This Blue Hole is very small. A caved cave where a stream runs under. The blue part is the deeper end. The water here is a bit cold, took me awhile to get in, even though I was sweating. Once in the water, it feels refreshing. The guide of the next group said it's 72°F. There are little fish here that may swim up to your leg and try to eat something. One old guy fell into the water. Later I found out his name is Neils.
I put on my shirt and pants (there's a changing room on the lawn above the pool, with mosquitoes). Walked to the other side of the road to wait for the next bus. The sun was too hot, so I left my pack there and came back to wait by the parking area where there's shade. An SUV stopped by me and asked where I was heading to and if I wanted a ride. Oh, yes. Neils is the client and had a driver and someone else. We got to Belmopan at 12:15, where Neils would be dropped off. He was heading to Caye Caulker too. So we decided to travel together.
We bought lunch outside of Belmopan bus station. By the time we got to the gate, the 12:30 express was gone. So waited for the 1:15 express. It arrived a bit later and was another school bus. Oh well. $4. About 1 hour 20 minutes. We then walked to the dock, via Orange St, a major street full of shops, choked with cars. You can walk faster than you can drive here. Neils had stopped by some store trying to buy a hat (and probably lost his sunglasses), maybe 10-15 minutes. At the first boat company, Ocean Ferry Belize, bought a roundtrip to Caye Caulker ($15 RT or 9.5 one way). Perfect timing, we got on the 3pm boat.
The boat goes quite fast, with 3 Yamaha engines. 45 minutes. Very loud. I volunteered my OR hat to Neils before I leave, as long as he didn't mind it being worn-out. The boat made a stop at Caye Chapel, before arriving at Caye Caulker. Neils's friend John met him at the dock, and we parted our ways.
I checked into Popeye's (now the Club of Caye Caulker under new management). This is a dump, badly managed. No water refill, no replacement of toilet paper, even after I requested. The 2 girls at the front desk are grumpy. The kitchen is a mess. Apart from its location, nothing is good. I changed into skirt and sandals, walked around inquiring snorkel trip for the next day. Signed up with Caveman, rated #1 on tripadvisor. My neighbor, a Dutch girl signed up with Rugged Muffins, recommended on Lonely Planet (but I cannot even find it on the list on tripadvisor). Price is the same everywhere. $65 for a full day trip, $35 half day, with multiple stops, including gear, lunch and ticket to Hol Chan Marine Reserve.
Friday night party at the Spit between the two halves of Caye Caulker. Bonfire, dance, cheap drinks. I may have gone there too early, saw less than 10 people. So I went back to sleep after eating a Pupusa. I found out that 23°C is what I can sleep under a sheet. You need a cover here, because of mosquitoes and sandflies, both were not too bad.
12/2, day 15, Saturday. Rain occasionally. I got up early for sunrise. Thick clouds. After breakfast, I decided to try to find the vacation rental Neils stayed at, even though I don't know the name, nor address, except that it's near a bar called Dirty Woods (not on my map). It would be more difficult later in the day, and I was told not to walk there in dark, because of less people there. Surprisingly I found them. Gave him my hat, so fulfilled my promise.
10:30-4:30 snorkel tour. We were told to arrive at 10 to gear up. Quite a lot of people, so it took awhile. Just as we were ready to head out in 2 boats, the rain started. So waited it out. It was still a bit of rainy when we left, after leaving our shoes at the dock. Each given a garbage bag for our stuff and a ziplock bag for camera. I have a dry bag, but it is small. So I put everything into the garbage bag. My boat has 10, plus 2 guides. 5 Israelis (very loud, the 2 girls who smoke are the most aggressive), a retired couple from Michigan, a young couple from Munich. Interesting that all Israelis were in their bathing suits, including the girl who probably weights 250lb. The other five are more modest, had shirts over our bathing suits. Maybe we northerners are not used to bare flesh.
First is on the north half of the island to see tarpons. They are close to shore, and aggressive. I held my hand out and was hit by one. These tour guides make tourists hold sardine out, so the tarpons are trained to jump up for food. Not a good practice. 2 pelicans landed on boat, one took a dump!
2nd stop is for seahorse on another dock on the same island. But we didn't find any, except for a cat. Water isn't clear here.
3rd stop is for manatee. We are at the end of the mating season, so only a slim chance to see some stragglers. Later, you need to go to a manatee reserve at Swallow Caye, closer to Belize City. After seeing one, we got to jump into the water and had a better look for a bit. It's giant and moved slowly among us. A couple of large fish under its belly. As we were getting on the boat, saw 2 manatees swimming together, a bit farther.
4th stop is close by to snorkel. I saw a trumpet fish among others. Not a whole lot of fishes. Corals and a lot of big Sea Fans, swaying in the water. Just as we were about to head out again, it started pouring. We were cold. The boat has a canvas cover in the middle for sun. Not for rain. We waited out in the ocean, which is much warmer than the rain. I was told it's 84F. Once it tapered off, we headed to Hop Chan Reserve. But I was still cold, until sun came out.
Had lunch. There were few choices when I signed up. I had, again chicken with rice and beans. Same coconut rice. Chicken is roasted, a whole hind quarter. Drink choices are Fanta and Coca-Cola. I picked a pineapple flavored Fanta, never seen it before. Not bad. Too sweet as usual.
The next 3 stops are in the Shark Ray Alley, close to each other. A ranger's boat came over to check out tickets. Finally the sun came out. A fisherman's boat was cleaning some conch, and we were told to swim around it. Lots of Sting Rays here, big. One had no tail. Saw a large Spotted Eagle Ray. It's a beautiful creature with really long tail and beautiful black dots. Sandy, flat and very shallow here (you can stand up). Lots of conch in the sandy bottom.
Next, we saw a big green turtle close to the boat. It surfaced a few times. At the shark stop, the guide threw cut sardines to the water, and a lot of Nurse Shark and other big grouper like fish jammed together for food. As soon as feeding stopped, they swam away. We swam next to the sharks, and they ignored us, only interested in sardines. Saw another turtle here, smaller, but I had a good look at it. Quite pretty.
3rd stop in the reserve is the channel. Narrow sandy band walled both sides by coral. Not very deep. Saw some divers here only a couple of meters below me. Quite a lot of fishes, some in schools. Saw a great big yellow eel, a pirate fish, another trumpet. We were separated into two groups of 5. Our guide would dive down and point, and then surface to tell us what he pointed at.
We then had some watermelon and pineapple abroad. Can refill water too. Last snorkel stop is at a shipwreck. It's a flat cargo ship. Deeper and bigger waves here, and I had trouble keeping my mask clear. So didn't stay long in the water. The German couple are the strongest swimmers in the bunch, they said they saw fish swaying by the wave. Only one Israeli went into the water here.
Back on shore around 4:30. After a hot shower, I sat in my aircon room typing up the blog. Checked in tomorrow's flight. Chatted with the Dutch girl who returned later from a half day trip. They were dropped off a nice beach (in her words) to hangout, and watch sunset. Then they came back on the free boat.
Went out to eat around 7:30. I heard about a full moon party tonight, but I didn't find it. Yes, the moon was bright.
Overall, I didn't enjoy Caye Caulker as I had hoped. There's really nothing to do here. It's flat, not on any reef. No fishes. No beach. The only swimming is by the Split, where you walk down some concrete steps. The land at the Split is carved out by eateries and bars, so no outside food and drink allowed. But water is not clean enough for me to want to swim here. The sand is coarse and street is dusty. You'd have to charter a boat or buy a tour to see fish. I think I'd like San Pedro less. Here, at least it's laid back. I saw only one truck. All taxis are golf carts. People ride bikes. You can take a free boat on the west of the island (a short walk, a bit dirtier) to the north half of the island which may have better beach. You need to buy $5 of drink, but apparently no one checks it.
12/3, day 16, Sunday. The last day. Windy, cloudy. Got up for sunrise, again too many clouds. While I was having a bagel and coffee, a lady came up to me, and said hi. It's my next door neighbor in San Ignacio! I was glad to see her. She was going home tomorrow.
I dumped my sandals, and more clothes. My pack was now quite light. You can see it in the hammock on this photo.
Exchanged my return receipt to a boarding pass for the 8:30am boat to Belize City. We departed at 8:40, a lot more people on this boat. Non stop. 9:25 arrival. Couldn't find anyone to share a taxi for the airport ($25). The driver, Manny, an Indian descent, a tour guide in the cruise ship season (soon), is very talkative. Of course, the very first thing is that we had to fill gas. I arrived at the airport at 10, so early, that no lines anywhere. In 5 minutes I paid $38 departure tax (unexpected, as United already charged me 2 kinds of tax on Belize's behalf), through 2 windows of immigration posts. There's no currency exchange here, yes, many shops. I had only $1 worth of BZ money left, not enough to buy anything. The toilet is clean. Filtered some water, and dumped my umbrella. I found a charging station.
My boarding pass said that the boarding starts at 12:20 (departure is 1pm), but at 12:20, almost all were loaded. Of course it cannot be so smooth. Two people had the same seat assignment one row before me. Took awhile to resolve this. What a small world, I sat next to the WA couple of the Caracol trip. I inquired about the Japanese girl who fell into the river, as they were in the same hotel. Good to know that she's fine, her ankle wasn't twisted, and she went to San Pedro after buying another camera.
Once we were air born, I fetched my fleece. Prezel and soft drink is complementary, like a domestic flight. A full flight.
