8/5, Saturday, drove out of Seattle ~7am. Arrived at White River wilderness center ~9am for backcountry camping permit. The ranger said that this is a good time to arrive, because there was always a long line of people on weekends when the door opens at 7:30, so often you'd have to wait for an hour. As luck would have it, with someone else' cancelation, we got our permit for Mystic Camp (total 7). My backup plan of Moraine Park (only 1) was actually taken. She also told us that Paul the Mystic ranger is familiar with the area around Elysian Field, and walking the service road out of Sunrise is shorter. Both good tips.
Sunrise is the highest parking lot in Mt Rainier national park at 6400', and my preferred one. Rainier's eastern side always has more snow and looks pristine. Today, it looked like a mirage in the smog (due to BC fire). Still beautiful. Flowers lined the slope as we drove up, looks like in peak bloom. Overnight parking here is very small (~6-7 spots). The service road has fewer people. We took a wrong road and checked out a pump station (all boarded up). No people here, and a lot of flowers. 
Back on the correct road, and eventually joined Wonderland Trail at the far side of Frozen Lake, as well as a lot of people. This may have saved 0.5 mile. Trail junctions: Burroughs Mt towards the mountain, and Fremont Lookout north.
0.7 miles further on Wonderland trail, another junction for Berkeley Park. Streaks of blue in a verdant valley. The group before us at the ranger station reserved 3 nights down there. 
The next mile is my favorite. Lots of flowers and open vista. A couple of small creeks, make good stops for snack and wash (no shade). After the trail junction to Skyscraper Mt, the land is dryer, more wind-swept. Still lot of flowers but different kinds. Still high and open.
Then the trail goes into the woods. First, still meadow like, lots of flowers amidst of trees. Soon, it's all woods, and gets boring. Granite Creek Camp gives easy access to the creek for a refreshing wash. Otherwise, this camp has no merit. From here it's 2.5 boring rocky miles to the low point of the trail @4600', where you cross Winthrop Creek on a single log bridge. Winthrop Glacier is completely covered by rock and dirt, and it was crackling under the heat. Rocks fell from time to time generating dust. When I wanted to take a photo of this bridge, I realized that I forgot my phone at Granite Creek Camp: 2.5 miles and 1200' up :( Immediately, I turned back. That was brutal. Luckily, a mile or so later I met a hiker coming down with my phone. He was doing the entire loop, and was also camping at Mystic Camp. 
Cross the roaring and sandy creek, the trail stayed in the open for awhile over the moraine, before heading back into the woods. Here you can see Garda Falls draped over logs and rock. The first time When when I walked by it, I didn't even notice the waterfall.2.1 miles from the bridge is Mystic Camp. Half way, you cross West Fork White River. The the trail follows the water more or less, provide plenty washing spots. I was quite exhausted by the time I reach the camp, and very disappointed. The camp is in the woods, no sign of the lake, nor any view. It was almost 5pm, and I had no strength to go look for Elysian Field (about 3 miles away from the map).
Paul, the ranger, came to check permits. I inquired about how to get to Elysian Field. Paul suggested a route that involves going over Old Desolate and Vernal Park. He said that there's no boot track to follow, and it would consume a whole day. Another worthwhile side track is Curtis Ridge, and can be accomplished before we had to hike out. After a rest and checking out other tents and water source (a small meadow with a creek), we took stove and went up to the lake, ~0.2 miles. It's lovely. Bigger than I expected. Mountain Rainier is mostly obstructed by this hill. If no camping is necessary to keep the lake pristine, then, be it. Swam (very shallow, but still a bit cold), relax, ate dinner by the lake. It has quite a few small sandy spots. Went up the ranger's cabin, ~0.2 mile away (saw a deer on the way). Paul has no view of the lake, but a better view of the mountain). Sunset at Mystic Lake. Too hazy to have the evening glow. Mosquitoes.Warm night. Didn't need rainfly. No star to speak of: too hazy + full moon is in a day or 2.
8/6, Sunday. Up at 6am so we could have time to explore the route Paul mentioned. Decamp. Took a day pack with food and water. Walked by the lake around 7am. Even though too late for sunrise, the color is still vibrant. 
Lots of cottongrass. The trail goes slowly up a pass, down and up. All quite nice and scenic. Great view of the Curtis Ridge and Mt Rainier. 
Before the trail goes down, we turned right up a ridge towards Old Desolation. 
May have turned north a bit too early. There is a faint trail first. The higher we climbed, the better view of Rainier and Carbon Glacier. However, it gets steeper too, and more treacherous, as the rocks are loose. At the top of this peak, you see more walls ahead, so no view of Vernal Park, let alone Elysian Field. Gave up.
Back down to the Wonderland Trail, and back to Mystic Camp. On the way, detoured to this pond. Looks very inviting. No one was at the camp ~10am. Almost everyone else here last night was doing the whole Wonderland loop. Saw some trail runners.
Walking back to the car without any incident. Temperature was rising mercilessly. Stopped by creeks to dip my shirt in water from time to time to cool down. My favorite stretch is between the junction of Skyscraper Mt and the junction of Berkeley Park. 
Saw a large group of goats resting on the remaining snow patches just off the junction of Berkeley Park. I had to go off trail to look for them. Didn't get too close. From Frozen Lake, took the regular trail. Lots of people on this part of the trail. Back at TH just before 4pm. Very warm. The car said 78°F, but it felt hotter. When driving out, saw 3 elks!Will have to come again to look for Elysian Field. Maybe after the mosquito time, as it's usually wet there.
