Sunday, November 29, 2015

2015.11.28-29 Maui - part 2/3 - the rainy east

The road to Hana is narrow and extremely windy. It was also pouring. The only good thing about driving at night is that there are very few cars on the road, and you see them coming. So easy to cut corners. By the time I reached Waianapanapa state park (meaning: sparkling water), it was almost 10pm (40 miles but 1:50 hours from Makawao). Good grief, not raining. All cars parked at same parking area. A short walkway leads to a grassy area with big Sea Almond trees that drop big hard shell fruits. Feels like walking on rocks at some places. There's a mild smell of rotten fruit. Restroom has only 2 stalls, a changing area. No soap, no drying mechanism. Outdoor shower: 2 shower heads. It took me a bit to find a spot. I pitched my tent, with a view of the ocean, and went to the restroom. Just then, it started raining in earnest, stranding me inside, as my tent is not close by. Windy and muggy here. 76F at midnight. Rained more at night. Woke up a couple of times, too hot, yet not warm enough not to use my sleeping bag.

11/28 Saturday. Woke up at 6:40, too late for sunrise. Windy. Walked about the state park. Lava rocks, crashing waves, blow holes. Super scenic. I got sprayed upon a couple of time. Thanks to the wind, it dries up quickly. I found out that I camped right next to a graveyard! A leisurely morning. Finally took a short shower. Even at 76F, cold shower is still cold. Washed some clothing, laid on top of the tent to dry. Half of the campers are gone by 9am. This is a very pleasant and picturesque park. $18+tax reserve ahead online. When I booked it 5 days ago, there was only 15/60 available, the busiest day of the week. I don't know how it can accommodate 60 people. It didn't seem that busy to me. I saw about a dozen tents last night. No one checked my receipt.

At 10:30am, headed to Blue Pool, a few miles west. I ignored 2 "road closed" signs, drove the bad gravel road to just before Kahanu Garden, because water was a half foot above pavement. I packed a bit of food and water, started walking. More or less in shade, under tall trees. African Tulip's big showy flowers scattered about. Passed an abandoned truck (found more of those throughout the island). Passed a big sign "Blue Pool Closed, Turn Around Here". Walked to the road end, about 1.5 miles, passing many homes on the sides, one with a beautiful tall waterfall. The last couple of hundred meters is not drivable. A big sign "Private Property, Trespass Is A Crime" and a road block. I turned back. Luckily a group of 4 was walking towards me. One local said "join us", so I did, to the ocean, just a hundred yard away. Here you need to wade across a serious creek. With all the recent rain, water is rushing, no wonder it says closed. I tried twice, gave up. Water was waste high, footing is also not stable. I saw one guy of the group made it across using a long tree branch. I looked for one too. Even with its help, it was difficult. At least once I thought I was going to die. After the crossing, it's boulder (lava) hopping, maybe only 100m to read to the pool at the bottom of a thundering waterfall. It's not blue: too much splashing. On the way back, I crossed the river where that guy did, because he said he'd make sure that I could make it back. It's at the river mouth, not the best spot. The group was there watching over me, and the guy was true to his word, standing right by the water waiting to help. At one point, water was chest high! I thanked them, and walked back to my car, chewing my food. It was already 1pm. 3 cars were parked next to mine. They drove here to see Hale O PiIlani temple, very disappointed because the garden was closed. I saw the guy (seems like a guide to his friends), and one of the ladies picking at some plants. So I inquired. She showed me Job's Tears.

Hana Bay is not much to look at. Few surfing beginners. Large restrooms, a food stall, a big picnic shelter with ~10 tables. At its far end, follow a foot path, over some landslide, 2 small red sand coves, is a big volcanic rock marking the birthplace of Queen Kaahumanu - queen regent, and the one who embraced Christianity.

At the turn from Hana Highway to the Red Sand Beach, is Wananalua Church - the oldest continuously running church in east Maui. It was built on lava rocks.

Venus Pool MM48, east of bridge, park to east at telephone pole #88. Lots of cars park along the road. Walk over a fence onto a flat grassland for a few minutes, until you hear screaming and laughing. A couple of daring kids were jumping into the stream, which were then hauled up by ropes tied on to the rocks. This is a cool place. The stream cascade down creating small natural pools.

Kipahulu campground below the entrance of Haleakala National Park (MM41 - #s going down) has a large flat lawn. 2 outhouse buildings, each with 2 pit toilets. No water! I walked towards ocean, tented under a Hala tree. There're 2 sites like this, each with its own picnic table. It's a short but muddy walk, but definitely worth the trouble for solitude. Cell signal is 3 bars, none at the visitor center. The restroom there has flush toilets, but every faucet in the sink is duct-taped shut. Why? (I was told later, they are changing the pump.) 2 drinking fountains still work, where I saw people washing their feet!

Drove a mile west and looked for Charles Lindbergh's grave behind Palapala Hoomau Congressional Church. His tomb is standalone to the east, closer to the little Kipahulu Point park. Then I continued to Kaupo. Road deteriorates a bit. Narrow cliff side blind turns. Quite scenic. I turned back around 5:15, when everyone else seems to be going west, against me.

I failed to find Alelele Falls TH (my hiking book states: Park in the middle of a 1 lane bridge, walk 15 min up stream). For the future, if continuing west, need to check out:

  1. Huialoha church and Halekii Bay for snorkle, fisherman and monk seal.
  2. Nuu Bay. Petroglyph. Gate MM30.75.
  3. Natural Arch. MM28.5 at Poo Pooo Bridge. Walk on the top of the Arch. MM29 at Waiopai bridge, access arch.
  4. Manawainui Gulch MM27.5, better look of the Arch.

Back to camp, a bit late for the sunset. Still nice colors. Had to drive up to the visitor center to fetch water for dinner. Ocean is quite loud. Rained occasionally throughout the night.

11/29, Sunday. Waited for sunrise near my tent. A couple of people got up for that too. After breakfast, went to Ohe'o Pools. Due to the heavy rain, they are closed for swimming. Had to go over closed railing to get near the pools. It was early enough that I saw no one else. Sat by one of the many overflowing pools, soaking my now stinking hiking boots. This is a splendid place. Saw two Red Crested Cardinal when I returned to the parking lot, waiting for the tour.

10am, join ranger-led hike on Pipiwai Trail - again, I reserved a week ago. Walter is a 3rd generation Hawaiian park ranger. He's very knowledgeable about the history, conservation effort, flora and fauna. I highly recommend his tour. Only 1 other couple (happens to be from Issaquah, 10 miles from my previous home) signed up. We learned stinky Noni - a tonic, Kukui - for its nut oil, Milo - for food container, Hau - for canoe and rope. Lots of people on this muddy trail, all ages. A big Banyan tree. A gorge with the towering Makahiku waterfall. A substantial bright over Palikea cascade. The bamboo forest is quite impressive. The bamboos are very tall, blocking the light, makes it feel like dusk at noon. Boardwalk over the mud is smeared with mud, so quite slippery. You can see the tall Pipiwai Falls, as well as Waimoku Falls (not at the same time) before crossing the ankle deep stream, which posed some challenge to my fellow tour members who wanted to keep their shoes dry. Only a dozen steps further is the end of the trail. I proceeded over the railing for a better view. Waimoku is 400' tall, tumbling down a semi circle of granite. Due to the recent rain, next to it, 2 small falls trickling like thin veils. Gorgeous, if you ventured outside of the boundaries! Back to the visitor center around 1:30pm. Had a leisure lunch under a plum tree. The picnic table is stained purple. Some guy came and sat at the same table. His company shipped him and his car here. He lives in Kihei. This is his first time to the east side of the island. I found it odd.

Driving back towards Hana. Took Haneoo Rd to check out Hamoa Beach. You know you arrived when you see many cars parked by the rode. Walk down the stairs to the beach. Restrooms, outside shower. I like Koki Beach better: nobody, better view, more park like surrounding. There're 2 picnic tables under a thatched roof. Didn't see a shower stand.

Stopped in Hana for Red Sand Beach. A 10 minute walk, somewhat steep cliff side trail. Still quite some people left at 4pm (when I drove by yesterday around 2pm, couldn't even find a parking spot). Few were fishing on tall rocks. Very scenic, with jagged lava rocks and crashing waves.

I should have allocated an extra day in the east. Now doing Road to Hana backwards, only managed to stop at two sites. The Pua'a Ka'a State Wayside Park (MM22.5) has some cascades. Bathroom, picnic tables. Can walk to the falls and swim in the pool. Upper Waikani Falls (MM19.5) is a few minutes walk, as no good place to park at the bridge (tourists still do). Next time, need to check out Twin Falls at MM2 (2.2 mile RT), Huelo Pt Lookout at MM5 (I didn't find it), Ke'anae Arboretum at MM17 (1 mile RT to Keanae Overlook)