2015.9.26-27 Golden Lake Loop

2015/9/26-27. Ira Spring's 100 Classic Hikes of WA, hike #24: Golden Lakes loop. 4.5 hour drive from Seattle. This is a mixed use trail, or more accurately a trail made for bikers. Gentle grade, sometimes the zigzag is so flat that I couldn't tell whether it's going up or down. On Saturday afternoon, I counted 16 motorcycles, 5 mountain bikers, all heading out. On Sunday, I met 15 bikers going in, 9 motorbikes heading out, heard a couple more motorcycles coming in from a different trail near Cooney Lake. Rocky trail close to the passes, and dusty (sometimes rutted U-shaped) trails in the valley, and made more dusty when wheels rolled by. I haven't met a single hiker in the 2 days. Did see 2 tents at mid Eagle Lake, not sure if they hiked in or biked in, as well as one guy waiting at the trailhead. Didn't see any horses, but many horse droppings. Once you get to almost 7000', it's magical, made more so by the golden larches. Now is the best time to visit. As a reference, this old trail report has more details, seems buggy when warmer.

9.26, Saturday. Cloudy in Seattle. The fastest way, suggested by Google (which knows Crater Lake Trail), is via I-90 ‐ US-97 N — WA-153 (Methow Valley highway) — Golden Creek Loop Rd. Pavement ends at the turn to Foggy Dew Campground. Do not turn. Continue and turn south (left if coming from Patero) at FR-300 for ~5 miles (to the end, or rather the road becomes too overgrown and narrow to drive on). The gravel is not too bad. US-97 goes along Columbia River: blue water, brown hills, lots of apple orchards, most were already picked. WA-153 curves along Methow River, more apple orchards. Quite a scenic drive.

Trailhead sign for Martin Creek Trail (2 miles), Horsehead Pass (7 miles), Crater CR TR (1 mile). Elevation ~4700'. It was almost 2pm when we started hiking. I was very motivated, as I could see the golden larches on the top of Foggy Dew Ridge across the valley, almost right at the TH. 15 minutes in, you'll see a trail sign to the right and up for Crater Lake TR, No 416. Maybe next time (it's hiker only). 30 minutes later, at the right junction going up, sign for Upper Eagle Lake (4 mile), Lower Eagle Lake (5 mile), Horseshoe Pass (5 mile). At the left junction going forward and lower, sign for Foggy Dew Trail (9), Cooney Lake (6), Martin Lake (5). At 4pm, first glance of the Lower Eagle Lake. 10 minutes later, there's a great viewpoint fitted with 2 stone benches, excellent photo spot for the Lower Eagle Lake. Another 10-15 minutes later, the trail goes next to the Middle Eagle Lake (now a muddy pond, very pretty though). Found 2 tents here. Now larches are more common. But don't stop here. Walk on the hiker only trail, going through meadows with larches, in 0.5 mile, is Upper Eagle Lake (~7150'). It's utterly stunning, under a circle of granite peaks going straight up. Only larches here. A good but cold camping area. Quite windy, and getting dark. We walked back to the main motorway via the lake outlet.

It's a 30 minute walk to the Horsehead Pass (~7600'). The view is outstanding. You see much better the Lower Eagle Lake on the way. Once at the pass, view to the eastern North Cascades. The setting sun is shining on this side (west), larches are brilliantly lit all along the slope and around Boiling Lake. No wind. The lake was still, with perfect reflections of the golden trees. What a beauty.

Camped at Boiling Lake (~7150'). Meadowy. The lake was shallow now. Muddy on the rim. There's a small outlet where you can get water easier. Very cold. My towel turned solid in half an hour. The moon rose above the ridge around 8pm, lit the sky bright until ~4 or 5am. Nice stars before the moon.

9/27, Sunday. Cold but sunny, not a shred of clouds. The rising sun didn't hit this west side until mid morning. Frost on ground, ice sheet formed on lake edge, my towel was frozen hard. It didn't thaw out until ~10:30am!

We headed out on the trail signed to Cub Lake. Instead of going west, it went south. It went along meadows dotted with larches, up to a knoll, where you can see Mt Rainier. We followed this track until it disappeared. I started going SW hoping to hit the main motor highway. My buddy found a more prominent trail sooner, and followed that one. That's the last I saw of him until back to the car, when I heard that trail also disappeared. As he has no map, he went back the way we came in. Too bad. But he checked out Upper Eagle Lake again in the sun. That's nice. Eventually I hit another faint track, and started following that, which fortunately leads to the main motor highway.

Saw the sign of "Angle's Staircase", which is not mentioned in Ira's guide, nor at the turn on my GPS map. I followed it, since it's the right direction, after leaving a few signs at the junction. That was a correct decision. It zigzags up over Hoodoo Pass ~8000' (10:50). Before reaching the pass, I met the first person today, a mountain biker. The view is grand here. Mt Rainier to the south, many peaks to the west. To the east is the Merchant Basin, but you don't see Sunrise Lake (~7200') from here. Follow the ridge north. Before the trail goes down, it splits again.

Turn left for 20 steps to the ridge again. Turns out it's a different ridge. There, you see Cooney Lake ~7300' (11:40), the most golden of all lakes. Coming down is steep at first, and very rocky. The trail circles the west side of the lake. By then, more bikers came in, and got dusty. The trail goes more or less flat heading north, but soon it starts long zigzags down. Larches disappeared altogether by the time I hit Martin Lake Trail. Even though it's only half a mile up (at ~6800'), I didn't go. Uneventful: reached Eagle Lake trail at 14:25, Crater Lake trail at 14:56. Back at TH at 15:11.

Started driving out at 15:30. This time going through North Cascade National Park. Washington Pass is a must stop. Liberty Bell Group (Liberty Bell, Concord Tower, Lexington Tower, Minuteman Tower, North and South Early Winters Spire) is like a gigantic wall as highway 20 zigzag up and around it. Early Winteres Spires are the most impressive. Here's a climbing route to the south arrete. Saw 2 elderly backpacker coming down the slope. Diablo Lake is always a pretty glacier green. Another nice stop would be the multitiered Gorge Creek Falls, 3 miles east of Newhalem, if not for the late hour. With just one gas/snack stop and the photo top at Washington Pass, almost 5 hours later, got back to Seattle.

The full moon to the east was glowing faintly red (lunar eclipse tonight) for almost an hour.

My phone registered ~24400 steps on Saturday and ~36000 steps on Sunday. So almost 20 miles. Drove ~500 miles. A great fall color hike, just a bit too far. Next time, I shall stay an extra night, and visit Sunrise Lake, and maybe do a day hike on the way back in east North Cascade.

2015.9.19-20. Jefferson Park via PCT

2015/9/19, Saturday. Meet at 7:30am, but the last person (Jeff) showed up 15 minutes late and then he wanted to buy a coffee and use the restroom in Fred Mayer. Just 20 minutes into the driving, our hike leader didn't turn off highway. We had to call her to get her turn around: more waste of time trying to meet up. Once we got onto the gravel road, her passengers wanted to pee on road. Guess whom I won't go backpacking with next time. After 4 hours, we finally made to the trailhead (Google suggested 2:20 for 86 miles. Yes, very rocky forest road). It took another 15 minutes to get all on trail. The only persons who did homework is me and my driver. Our hike leader didn't even know that this is a designated camping area. Dilly dally, we were slow going too. Yes, all legal campsites were taken. I found a site for our car of 3 at Russell Lake, and another site for the other car of 4 at Scott Lake, who will return Monday. Not legal, but on proper tenting sites, not on trail, like some of other campers did. It's very crowded. Barring these downsides, the scenery is great. Huckleberry leaves are shining red, grass are golden under sun. Very pretty time.

There are 3 ways to get into Jefferson Park. Last august, I hiked in via Whitewater trail, which is the easiest to get to. Another option is via South Breitenbush trail. Today, we followed PCT via Park Ridge. As you drive in the bad road, you can see the Pyramid Butte. A loop parking lot next to the Breitenbush Campground, but you don't see the big lake at all. The trail starts in evergreen forest with some rhododendron trees and carpet of red huckleberry bushes. Soon, it goes through a short burnt area. Then back in forest, then meadow, and then rocks galore. A couple of small ponds amidst the rock piles still have water. View of Hood to the south, and sometimes Jefferson to the north. As you crest Park Ridge, Jefferson jumps on to you in grandeur. Lunch and regroup. A great place to stop and stare. I walked up along the ridge to the west end for better photos.

The trail down to Jefferson Park goes along the ridge to the west for a bit, then slowly winding downwards, passing a plateau, then a drainage basin of Sprague Lake, now almost bone dry. Huckleberry bushes are a blazing red on the slope. In the park, not so much red, mostly yellow grass. The first lake you encounter coming down from Park Ridge is Russell Lake. All 3 camp sites were taken, when I went to check them out. I reported to our hike leader who just now arrived about the camping predicament. 2 of us decided to stay in a side campsite here, instead of moving 1 mile south to the main cluster of lakes.

5 of us continued south to Rock Lake first, setup base camp in a large site, shared with another tent. Has view of mountain and lake. After checking out Rock Lake and Park Lake, I decided to go back and camp at Russell Lake - only 1 group of old ladies. Took my dinner, sat next to Russell and ate my dinner there. Then I walked to Rock Lake for sunset photos. By then, it was very crowded there, almost like a zoo, with dogs barking, tents on trail and in closed sections. I saw people wash and dump dirty water into the now shrunk lake. It was dark when I went back to my tent. My phone recorded ~30000 steps.

9/20, Sunday, I set the alarm at 6:30. Got up and wait for sun to rise at the lake. Cooked my breakfast there. Then, I went east of the lake to check out the flat meadow. Encountered 0 person. More ponds. Took many photos of Jefferson reflected in water. . As I turned back towards PCT, I started to see hikers. Met the other 4 at Scott Lake again. One of them changed his mind and wanted to go back to town with our car today. I visited Bayes Lake - very odd shaped. Headed back ~10:30am. At my tent site, our driver has already packed up, ready to leave. The other guy was gone. I headed out ~11:30. It's about an hour to reach Park Ridge, and another 2 hours to the car.

Back to TH at 2:30pm. Our driver and I were the first ones arrived. I wanted to check out Breitenbush Lake. But we took the wrong trail, continued on PCT north ~3/4 mile to an unnamed lake. It gained quite a few hundred feet before flatten out to the lake basin. Almost all burnt trees along the trail. As the elevation gains, you can peek at Mt Jefferson, Breitenbush Lake and a large meadow with more more ponds and Lake Hilda SE of Campbell Butte, all through white tree trunks. The lake basin, however, is green, some huckleberry bushes too. Total today I walked ~35000 steps.

It took 3 hours driving back to downtown, where the other 2 were dropped off. I was dropped off ~15 minutes walk from my home. Thus ends a very colorful weekend. It didn't start smoothly, but finished nicely.

2015.9.15. Tech Talks at Simple

There're many tech events in Portland for its size. This Tuesday, I went to 2 talks about how to keep your customers engaged via social network, presented by two Simple employees at their office. Simple is an online-only banking company: an interesting concept. They seem to do very well with this business model. They were acquired by BBVA last year.

This event, they've provided a lot of food this evening. Simple also lends space to other meetings, which food is not available.

2015.9.12-13. Hannegan Pass and beyond

9/12, Saturday. Departed from Seattle at 9:30am under cloudy sky. After a regular stop at Glacier ranger station, arrived at Hannegan Pass TH (~3100') at 12:30 under full sun, no cloud at all. Lots of cars parked along the gravel road. Pretty hot, maybe 80°F. The trail to Hannegan Pass starts leveled, within 5 minutes you are out in the sun, for most of the time, great view to the south (right) of the Nooksack Range, and the Ruth Creek below, and thin waterfalls draping between. Elevation starts to pick up after an hour, and autumn colors became more vivid. Around 2:30pm (mile 4, 5066'), we arrived at the pass. Along the way, met many day hikers, backpackers, a ranger walking with 4 horses and a couple riding 4 horses. Hannegan Camp just below the pass has a board walk, privy and a creek (needs filter). Saw more tents further on the slope with better view.

Hannegan Pass (~5100'), as a destination, is a bit anticlimactic, given the nice view along the trail getting here. But it's an excellent starting point of adventures. At the pass, we headed up south on a trail to a knoll for lunch, hoping for better views. Instead, found a small (stale) pond, and some camp sites below on grass, rimmed with red huckleberry bushes (not a single berry left). Great view of Ruth Mt and a piece of the menacing back of Mt Shucksan. So, pitched the tent, washed, packed a day pack, started out again at ~3:45pm.

The trail towards Copper Ridge continues east, zigzags down (-700') 1 mile from the pass to Chilliwack River valley, a nice rushing rocky creek - you want to fill water here for the next 4 miles. Here you also enter North Cascade National Park and Stephen Mather Wilderness, the Boundary Camp, with established privy and a big iron bear box. Saw 3 grouses. Lots of fireweed, their flurry heads shine in the sun and floats in the air upon a breeze. Great color. Here, the trail splits. The northern one (left) goes to Copper Ridge; the south one (straight) goes along Chilliwack River for 7 miles to junction of Brush Creek Trail, and another 5.4 miles will lead to Whatcom Pass. Yes, a lot to explore (wading water may be needed, there is a cable car over the Chilliwack River north of US Cabin Camp--gloves recommended). Then, you are in the woods for awhile, gaining back the elevation. Pickett Range soon appeared in the horizon. At 5:30, snacked on a knoll, great view to all sides. From there, it's high country ridge, rolling hills now painted red. Lots of heather (earlier in the season, this should be a flower garden). 3.2 miles from the junction is the fabulous Camp Silesia, with grand view to Challenger Glacier and the sharp granite peaks of Pickett Range. No water, but who wouldn't camp here instead of Egg Lake, 0.4 miles down. (Probably need to get to Glacier ranger station at 8am to snatch a camping permit for this site.) I had to walk quite a ways to north to get a glimpse of the small lake. We turned back here at 6:30pm. (If continue on Copper Ridge, 3.2 miles will reach Copper Lake, half way is a lookout tower. Another 7.5 miles will connect to the lower Chilliwack Trail.)

Sunset over the southern ridge, now to our left, is quite pretty. We returned to our tent after 9pm, in darkness. Stars were brilliant at 10pm.

9/13 Sunday. No sunrise. Too many thick clouds.
Head up to Ruth Mountain. The beginning, 5 minutes above our tent site, is straight up: see the yellow-marked route in this photo. Using roots as ladder, hands required at times. The grade eases right after. The well established trail curves around a knoll of ~5930' (which we hiked up to on the way back) to a lovely wide ridge (with some camping remnants). Excellent views all sides. Colorful mountain ash and huckleberry leaves decorated the slopes. Saw a group of 6 slowly descending the glacier. Alas, my bad, didn't bring crampons. Have to come again. I should be able to climb this with traction device.

Back at camp. Lunch. Packing. Back down to Hannegan Pass. Hannegan Peak is a must. 1 mile and 1000' up to the crest. There's a puddle (the only water) and a few camping options. Summit is rather flat (6187'), and there will be my future camp site! (Have to haul water up here). Absolutely fabulous 360° views. You can see Canada! All the way along the trail, autumn colors were amazing.

9/14 Monday. 6:45am bus from Seattle downtown International District to Portland. Rare to see China Town this quiet and pretty. This weekend, my phone recorded 41885 steps on Saturday, and 32885 steps on Sunday. I estimated it to be 16 miles + 12 miles, about 3000' elevation gain each day.

2015.9.8. Jonathan Franzen at Powell's

9/8 Tuesday. Jonathan Franzen reads his new novel Purity at Powell's bookstore at Cedar Hills Crossing. Good Q&A session.

This week, a few more well known authors: Ursula Le Guin talked on writing craft on Thursday 9/10 at the original store downtown. It was not big enough, that I was banned from going to the 3rd floor where the book reading took place, because the capacity had reached. She didn't read, not an interesting event, maybe because I couldn't concentrate being on a different floor.

Salman Rushdie came on Sunday 9/13 for his fairy tale Two Years Eight Months and Twenty-Eight Nights . I didn't go. Probably would be terribly crowded.

2015.9.5-7. City walks in greater Vancouver

Labor Day long weekend: visiting my family in Vancouver area.

Friday. This is the pizza my nephew made from flour and water: my dinner.

Saturday. Coquitlam Crunch: a hiking trail under power line. Not steep at all, but it does go up. Wide, quite a few people. There's a community garden near the trailhead. We took a different route coming down with a mix of streets and trails. A good and short workout without needing a car.

Sunday. Burnaby Mountain Park. Big parking lot. A restaurant, public WC, totem pole ensemble titled "Playground of the Gods", a rose garden, many lawns and picnic tables. Good view of Burrard Inlet, and all the way to downtown highrises. A few easy walkways, one of two of them link to Simon Fraser University. Should come here for sunset.

2015.9.3. Oregon Symphony at waterfront

Again on the Thursday before Labor Day weekend, Oregon Symphony, as well a few local music groups celebrated the end of summer at Waterfront Concert, together with Coast Guard (and their canons). Here's a link to my last year's blog. This time, I'm copying the program here, it resembles a lot like last year's.

The Star Spangled Banner    — John Stafford Smith (arr. Norman Leyden) 
  Mars from The Planets       — Gustav Holst 
  Scherzo from Symphony No. 6 in D major — Antonin Dvorak
  Act I finale from L'Italiana in Algeri — Gioachino Rossini (with Portland Opera)
  "The Moldau" from Má vlast  &mdash Bedrich Smetana
  Intermezzo from Carmen: Suite No. 1 — Georges Bizet 
  Overture to La forza del destino    — Giuseppe Verdi (with Metropolitan Youth Symphony)
Hooray for Hollywood        — John Herndon Mercer (arr. John Williams)
  Bedroom Scene from Romeo and Juliet — Sergei Prokofiev  (with Oregon Ballet Theatre)
  Presto from Symphony No. 28 in C major, K. 189k — Wolfgang Amadeus Mozart
  Colonel Bogey March         — Kenneth Alford
  1812, Overture solonelle    — Piotr Ilyich Tchaikovsky (with Portland Youth Philharmonic + Coast Guard)

Audience includes 1 crying baby and many talkative adults. I still very much enjoyed the concert. I especially like the opera 6-tet. 1812 of course, with the real canon. A quarter rainbow to start. A fireworks to finish. Similar to last year: thin and lasted for a good 15 minutes.