Saturday August 2nd. Didn't have to get up early for this hike. After 1 gas stop on I5, 1 sandwich stop at IGA at Packwood, and 7 slow gravel miles (at the turn, watch for the sign for Tatoosh Ridge), we didn't start the hike until 12:45. 7-8 cars already parked at the trailhead - with an obvious sign and a box for wilderness permit. The WTA guide is misleading in a couple of places, made me wonder if the author visited this trail recently.
The first 2.5 miles is a steady upslope, gaining over 2500'. Air was still and sultry. It rained earlier, you could still smell it in the air. The reward comes in less an hour: flowering slopes in small doses, with view of trail on distant green slopes tainted yellow. Sometimes, can see the tip of St Helen, very faint: too hazy. More flowers as we went higher on the slope, and the flowers never stopped. Few zigzags crossed a small creek to wash sweat off. A couple trail junctions to ignore, one with a sign nailed on a tree after you walk on it, past a tent site: abandoned trail. Do NOT turn until you see the official wooden trail junction post. We took the left fork UP towards the lake. It's a short walk to a saddle. As soon as you reach here, you see the north side: Mount Rainier takes up 1/3 of the view. Absolutely beautiful. I immediately renounced my plan for a 2nd hike the next day, so I could stay here longer. We took 2 nice camp sites on the ridge left of the saddle, each with its own semi-privacy. Small but adequate sites: my pegs were pounded on the path. Many more campsites lower at the plateau still with snow patches. We simply sat at the ridge for over an hour, drank a can of beer and drank in the view as in the above photo.
At 5ish, I said I'm ready to check out the lakes. Due to the snow, we couldn't find the proper trail. All seem to lead to a camp site. So I started bushwhacking down a stream bed, until it became a small waterfall. We then slowly moved down a flowering slope. The plants were thick even though the ground is almost sandy. I couldn't see where my front foot was landing. That 500' hike is somewhat difficult, but we made to the lakes. First a small pond, its water perfectly still like a mirror. Then a bigger pond surrounded by steep slopes streaked with snow. Quite pretty. The water is clear and cool. Because a stream was rushing into it, reflection isn't good. The lakes are buggy like hell. I gave up my plan of getting into the water. We walked back up, now on the proper trail. Steep, but no longer difficult. Lots of avalanche lilies.
Ate dinner at the saddle, overseeing all other tents: at least 4 groups, only one group has multiple tents. Patiently waited for the sunset. Heard thunderstorm just east of us. I had to put my fleece on.
Sunday. Got up at 5:30. Could hear flies/bees buzzing around my tent. They are big. Watched the sun rise. ~6:30, we headed back to the trail junction, and turned left, continued south towards the ridge. It was cool, and we were in the shade. Millions of flowers, miles long, more or less leveled. Passed another tent site next to the trail. At some parts, the trail was a bit rocky and slippery (sandy). A few turns. After 1.5 miles, getting into a bit woody, there, a trail sharp left headed up a gentle slope. Here's what heaven should look like: views on both sides, endless of flowers, a few snow patches to the east (I filled my water bottle), Mt Adams to the south, Goat Rocks, layers of green ridges, a green basin below. At the top is the remnant of a lookout, with 3 posts, a geological survey bottle, melted(?) glasses, a cloud of bees circling a short pinetree, and... Mt Rainier. A few snow patches showing shallow blue water. We sat there for a long time. Not a sole in sight. What a view!
On the way back, we were in full sun. Flowers are more colorful. There's a 4 way junction which we didn't explorer earlier. Now, I took the side trail (right) going up an unknown peak, and the other side is short. Somewhat steep. At the top, I could see the lakes below and Rainier in front.
Back to the camp, packed, and headed out ~12:50pm. Uneventful. Total, encountered ~15 people, 2 dogs today, and about the same on Saturday.
An absolutely beautiful weekend.