My impetus is the Sandhill Crane festival, or rather just the crane migration. The best time is end of March, when half a million cranes stop around the shallow Pratt River and feed in the neighboring fields. March is not the best time. I decided to swing to the Black Hills after birdwatching. March is not a good time: too cold with a high likelihood of snow storm, some roads are still closed (all winter). A month later would be ideal: warmer weather and green grass. 3/18 Tuesday after work, my parents and I flew to Denver, checked into a hotel in Sterling at 2:00 (1 hour ahead of Oregon). Denver Airport is rather large. All rental cars require shuttle bus. Big lots full of cars. So it takes time. There's a toll peripheral Hwy 470 next to the airport. The toll isn't much, maybe $6, but Hertz charges you ~$25 to use the payment pass (for rentals under a month). No other payment method available. The Hertz clerk showed me a detour, which is fairly easy: north on Tower Rd, west on E 120 ave, which has an ramp to I-76.
3/19, Wednesday. Late start, arrived at Fort Kearny" ~3pm (lost another hour to Central timezone). Saw some wild turkey right by I-80, and some cranes. More cranes after getting off the highway and onto 50A. The old gentleman in the information center of state park showed me a printed map, places to be for crane watch and the best time to be there (7:30pm and 7am, because sun sets at 7:40pm and sun rises at 7:40am). He also told me that the blinds were already full. We paid $5 parking fee, dad bought a crane book, we ate lunch in its picnic shelter. Quite windy and chilly. Not much to see here, so we went to scout out the bridge we'd be tonight in Fort Kearney's camping area 2 miles east. Once we found the trailhead, we left for Rowe Sanctuary ~7.5 miles further east. On the way, we saw big flocks of bird to the left and right of Elm Island Rd. So many that we stopped for photos. Rowe Sanctuary is on a gravel road, built on corn stalks. Big windows facing north (to the Pratt River) with binoculars on window sills, full of light. Bird-feeds outside. There was a talk when we arrived. Lots of posters and books. Toilet. Busy. It organizes guided watch at 6am and 6pm. I noted this place for tomorrow's morning watch because it's indoors (less cold). 
Checked into the hotel in Kearney, ate dinner, and then drove to Fort Kearny's camping area. Walked the bike/hike trail to the bridge, bundled up with windstopper hat, gloves and scarves. There were already quite a few people when we arrived, some carrying big telephoto lenses. We waited. Cranes flying overhead, lots of noise. Finally some decided to rest on a piece of land in the river. More and more followed the suit, until there's no more room on that piece of earth. Those at the edges moved into the water. More and more landed. Some departed. This all happened right at sunset. No need to come earlier. However, when we left, the parking lot was completely full. We are lucky: not too much windy.3/20 Early rise. We arrived at Rowe ~6:50 in pitch darkness. It was closed. We were directed to the bridge from Gibbons. 2 cars were already there. We waited. More and more people came, more and more cranes flew away, but in small groups. The big flock in front of us was not bothered. Only after the sunrise, all of a sudden, for no reason, they decided to rise in unison. It was quite a sight. We went back to the hotel for breakfast and packing. Overall, there're less birds than I thought, because they are scattered, so not an impressive spectacle that led me here.
2nd stop: Willa Cather's Red Cloud. I read two books by Cather, neither was her more celebrated works. I don't like either, actually. Her prose is good, images live, but plots and characters are sentimental, even cheesy, very 2-dimensional. Cather is more famous on writing the early settlers' lives on the prairie. She modeled many of her characters on her neighbors in Red Cloud, even though she only spent her childhood here (age 9-17). We went to Willa Cather Foundation, housed in the old opera house (now still hosts events). We were the only visitors, watched a video, and signed up for a tour. The lady showed us 3 buildings (my choices): The Farmers' and Merchant's Bank Building (built in 1889, owned by Silas Garber, former Union Army Officer, the founder of Red Cloud - 1871, and the fourth governor of Nebraska 1875-1879. Governor Garber and his wife were Cather's prototypes for Captain Forrester and his wife in A Lost Lady. Impressive brick building, nice woodwork, terribly steep stairs), Cather's childhood home (nice looking front where childrens are not allowed, but poor or no decor in the back and attic where the children slept. 10+ people shared this little house), Grace Episcopal Church (lovely stained glass windows imported from Germany, paid by Cather. She also paid for daily expense like utilities, and donations helped the poor members of the congregation). All three are now locked. I drove out of this sleepy town around noon, thinking maybe I will try one more book by her.
Long drive from here to Wall, North Dakota. We stopped once for gas and once at Valentine Wildlife Refuge area to break the monotone of the long drive, and shed some clothes (20°C). The communities around the state border (Todd County, part of Rosebud Indian Reservation) are visibly poor: garbage, rickety houses.
We arrived at Badlands National Park at sunset. The color is amazing. The 23 mile Badlands Loop Road (hwy-240, I-90 exit 131) among the pinnacles is surreal: a paved ribbon in the moonscape. My favorite drive of this entire trip. Being this late, we only saw ~5 cars while we were there. Hwy-240 loops back to I-90 at exit 110, where Wall is. We checked into hotel at almost 8pm (Mountain timezone, gained one hour).
3/21 Friday. Light snow. Windy. Minuteman Missile National Historic Site. The National Park Service has its visitor center off I-90 exit 131, south, next to the Conoco gas station. In winter, it only opens on weekdays, and tour of the control facility at 10am and 2pm. I called to check if the tour would be canceled due to bad weather. No. So we showed up at 10:00. We were shown a short video about Minuteman in this "trailer", and then both rangers (in their SUV) led us (in our car) to I-90 west for 1 exit for Delta-01. A one story innocuous looking ramble with high fence and radar. The daily (boring) life of the personnels (20+ beds, but only about 6 people + 1 cook) was described. Then we descend ~10m in an elevator. The cabin sits on pillars that minimize shakes in case of bombing. The door is pretty impressive, ~1m thick. We were told the procedure of actually trigger a launch: multiple security check whenever anyone enters, multiple keys (metal and daily changed decryption codes) and always with both officers acting together. On top of this, only if 2 sites both decide to trigger, then a missile will be launched. Delta-09 Missile Silo is located off I-90 Exit 116. You can peek the underground missile through a glass window.
Back to Wall and visit the huge Wall Drug Store, whose billboard ads show up 50+ miles away. It took almost an entire city block, with multiple rooms, covered alleys, yard, even a church. Many stuffed animals on the walls. Yes, there's a map for the store! We had lunch in their cafeteria, in one of the many connecting rooms. Not particularly good, but not bad either. Yes, coffee is 5c in a small mug. 
I wanted to drive Badlands Loop Road again. But Dad is not impressed with Badlands, claiming that China's 魔鬼城 in Uyghur territory is better with more colors. Since it's really very windy and cold, we only checked out the Sage Creek road, west of Walls. Saw many buffalos, white tailed deer, and prairie dogs, a family of goats. Quite nice indeed.
Black Hills was now black and bleak. Snow started in earnest when we approached Rapid City. We pushed on to Wyoming, and 4 hours after lunch, we came out of the snow, and reached Devils Towel. It is quite impressive. Long strands of igneous rock columns, almost man made with hexagon-like cross-section. Plenty theories as how it's formed. The rocks at the base is reddish in color, totally different from the black tower. We are thankful that the bathrooms were available, even though the visitor center was closed (after 4pm). Headed back into the snow, to stay at Spearfish. The town is big enough to have a Safeway. Everything was blanketed with thick fluffy white snow. Streets were not plowed yet after the new snow.
3/22 Saturday. I was hoping to drive the Spearfish Canyon Scenic Byway (14A) down to Keystone, in the mountains, but was talked out of it by the lady at the front desk. So retrace our step on I-90 and turned south to 16 after Rapid City. Keystone is a cute mountain village, with a western frontier flare. Mt. Rushmore national park is only 2 miles west. Light snow. Not much to do. The trail is closed due to snow. Even if it were open, it doesn't go much closer to the four big statues. So we were content to stay in doors. This park doesn't charge an entrance fee (even though I have a national park pass), but it hires a concession company to build giant multilevel parking lot, and charge you $11 to park (keep the receipt if you come here again in a year with the same rental car :). At this time of the year, it's possible to park just on the road side and walk up (maybe only adds 5 minutes). I paid unhappily. I don't want my money to go to the construction company.
Next, to Crazy Horse, 16 miles south, in light snow. Turned around at the gate, as we were informed that we wouldn't see anything. So we continued to Wind Cave (Jewel Cave, which supposed to be pretty, is closed on weekends). Arrived too early for their 3pm tour ($7). Winter time, there's only one tour available, offered at 10am, 1pm, and 3pm daily, not affected by the weather. The notable feature here is the boxworks - thin blades of calcite that project from cave walls and ceilings, forming a honeycomb pattern. The surface ground of Wind Cave national monument is the edge of prairie. From the video we saw, in spring time, it's lush and beautiful, full of life. We only saw prairie dogs and a herd of bison, right by the road. Drove back north to Keystone for the night.
3/23. Sunday. Blue sky today. Once again, we went to visit (road not plowed) Crazy Horse. $28 per car. Sculpter Korczak Ziolkowski was asked by Lakota Chief Henry Standing Bear to produce a monument honoring native American heros, soon after Rushmore was "finished". He, alone, starting in 1948, worked with old machines, in the mountain for 7 months. Now his widow, 10 children and others slowly continue his design. A family business, collecting donations, admission tickets, selling souvenirs. Twice each year, (early June and late September), during Volksmarch, people can walk up 3 miles to Crazy Horse with a donation of 3 canned food, and pay $3 access fee. Otherwise, you are not allowed on the trail. We paid $4 each to get on a narrated bus tour which drives ~1Km to the base of the statue where the trail starts. Otherwise, the furthest you can get is the visitor center you are in. However, the wooden buildings that house the visitor center, museum and shops are very nicely done. Airy and full of light (big window).
Before we head out of the Black Hills, we checked out Sylvan Lake in Custer State Park, where the road blockade. The prettiest drive - Needles Highway - is closed for the season. The lake is entirely frozen, peaceful. Note, end Sept, there's the annual buffalo round up, to examine their number and health. Would be a spectacle with ~1300 bisons.
We drove past Wind Cave again, and met the same group of bisons. This time, I stopped to allow them approach. Quickly, 5 started licking the dirt off my car!
At the south of Hot Springs, we visited the Mammoth Site $9. Very impressive. ~60 mammoths were found, most Columbian mammoth (most common in North America), only 3 Woolly mammoths (smaller, furry, and supposed to hang out in the arctic). Almost all are young males. I guess boys are more adventurous, easily get themselves into bad situations. There're bones of other smaller animals, as well as tools, labels used to clean up or dig the site. Today, no one was working here.
We crossed into Nebraska again. I was hoping to find where Crazy Horse was fatally injured on 1877.9.5 at Fort Robinson State Park. Went around a couple of military houses reading the plaques outside, couldn't find any clue. Nothing was open on this Sunday. Crazy Horse surrendered here with his band on May 6, 1877. At that time, some 13000 Lakotas were rounded up here. It played a major role in Sioux War of 1876. The expansive grassy land with bluff in the background is quite lovely though. We drove by Agate Fossil Bed national monument on the way to our hotel. Too windy and late to walk far. May come back here in spring sometimes.
3/23 Monday. Visited Scotts Bluff national monument before heading to the airport. Rising 800+' above the otherwise flat plain, these bluffs offer important landmarks on the Oregon Trail and Mormon Trail. We were the only visitor this morning. The ranger was enthusiastic of showing us where to do, telling me stories of Crazy Horse. There's a small paved road right by the visitor center up to the bluff, passing 3 tunnels. Nice view of the farmland down below. Can see Chimney Rock from here. We made a 23 mile (one-way) detour to Chimney Rock before heading to the airport, 3.5 hours away. This concludes the 5.5 day road trip of over 2000 miles!
