平遥 is a completely walled city. The train station is a 15 min walk NW outside of the wall. Most houses are 100-500 years old (明清). Well preserved, or renovated. UNESCO listed. This was once a town of banks and traders. Some old homes are converted to museums. For ¥120, you can buy a ticket to most these sites, valid in 3 days. But you can just stay here. Very pretty, enough though a bit too touristy. Many hotels or homes renting out rooms. Some are very pretty with a couple of inner courtyards, ancient trees. Not enough tourists in this chilly November. Prices are slashed in half. 
I settled into a home close to the north gate (closer to both the train and the bus depot). 
I enjoy walking in the old town. Happened to see a wedding procession today. Visited many museums which require this ticket. Pretty soon, I couldn't tell one from the other. Some big ones have guides and group tours, whom I can listen to. 日升昌票号, 雷履泰故居, 蔚泰厚(票号博物馆), 百川通(三晋大财东家私博物馆),中国镖局博物馆, 蔚盛长(珍藏博物馆), 平遥古城清凉寺, 城隍庙, 古县衙, 文庙. 
I like 文庙 (Confucius Temple) the most: no hords of tour groups. At least visit one bank (each has a cryptic language to document the amount and transaction time), one home, the old town government site (with prison and court), the main temple. The two main streets are very lively and full of shops and restaurants in lovely old buildings, selling things twice as much as outside. Still fun to browse.
If you wonder off the main commercial street, you get to see what it looks like without restoration. Another must do is walking on the city wall. Make sure to use the toilet before you go up. You can only go up at the north and south gate, and you can only descend at the east, west gate and next the Confucius Temple (close to the south gate). I saw less than 10 people while on the wall for at least half an hour. Great big wall. The gates are elaborate with multiple gates and guard houses between inner and outer parts. 王家大院 ¥66 (35km south)
Wang's Estate is reachable by public transportation. Train to 介休 Jiexiu (I highly recommend the 8:45am slow train 普客 ¥3, very empty, 28 min). There, take bus #11 (¥5/人) every 20 min, 40 min ride. Passing 介子堆's home near 绵山. 
Home of a wealthy merchant (venith in the 18th century). Very impressive. HUGE: 0.15 km2. It's worth tagging along a guide, who will describe the meaning of each carving/painting (in the first few buildings). Walking along the wall provides a bird's eye view of ~1000 houses inside, and Mt Mian Shan 绵山 beyond to the south. 
From 介休, I took another bus (every 30 min) to 张壁 ¥60/50 winter. A ghost town with dilapidated buildings hoping to become a tourist attraction. It also has a mud wall, but not complete. There's tunnel, being excavated. I walked in part of it, not sure what it is for. Quite long and well constructed. The problem of coming here in low season, is that there's no bus leaving in the afternoon. I waited in vain for half an hour, and decided to walk to the next town for 4km, and there, I caught the 4:30 pm bus. The train I took back to Pingyao was so crowded, and it costs ¥9, because it is non-stop. Right, saves 1 minute.镇国寺 ZhengGuo Temple ¥24/18 is 12km NE. Bus # on the main street north of the wall. ~30 min.
Not a whole lot to see. I was the only one while I was there. Only when I left, saw another tourist coming. The main shrine 万佛寺 Wangfo is the oldest wooden structure in China, dates to 五代. Looks pretty good to me. I took a photo of this buddha who sits in a non-conventional way.Next time if I come to Shanxi 山西, I have to visit 双林寺 ShuanLin Temple, 6km SW. It's reputed to have the most colorful statues. Well, next time. Also I have to go visit 乔家大院 Qiao's Estate, setting for movie Raise the Red Lantern.
I took a slow train to Taiyuan 太原, the capital. There I was able to take money out of the ATM. There're a couple of banks next to the big train station. Opposite a Spar supermarket called Meetall 美特好, where I had dinner, and bought some cookies for my coworkers back in Oregon.
11/8 Friday, my evening train is to arrive in Shanghai ~9am. Walking around the town in heavy smog. Had dinner at my uncle's. Met my cousin and his new wife and baby.
11/9. Friends.
On Sunday 11/10, I visited Shanghai Museum, before heading to the airport for my 6pm flight. The museum is free (30 minutes in queue), and well worth a few hours. Crowded, yet orderly. There happened to be a French impressionist exhibit from Sterling and Francine Clark Art Institute. I enjoyed it very much.
